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Radiator coolant additives


rtaylor

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I'd think an L-motor would be "happy" in the 185-200 degree range. Water boils at 210 open atmosphere at sea level. Under pressure as in a radiator, it's something higher. So even if the temp reaches 210 it wont be boiling......

I think what we're reading here is guys are unhappy with where the needle is sitting on the gauge without knowing what that position on the gauge represents temerature wise.....

I may be wrong.... was one other time..... nyuck nyuck

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I want to keep the metal fan and the 71 did not come stock with the shroud, so that is not an option.

Thanks Esprist. I'll give you a call.

Metal fan shroud was an option parts for those who claimed his/her car ran hot. So they were listed on parts calalog. MSA has replica one look just like original one.

By the way, installing an oil cooler also reduces engine temp=water temp.

Esprist

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Rocket Science you say? Well certainly it is that..... Bring the temp up with the cap on. shut it off take the cap off take the temp of the water. Maybe take readings 2 or 3 times on the way up to where you think things are getting "hot". That'll give you some intermediate readings on the way up to operating temp. It's hard to tell which direction you are going with only one stake in the ground.....

Did I read that right? "Bring the temp up with the cap on. shut it off take the cap off"

Isn't it a bad idea to take the cap off once the temp is up?

Images of a trip to yellowstone come to mind:

post-6558-14150807257414_thumb.jpg

Edited by ta240
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3. change thermostat to low temp type. 76C dregrees?

I know this subject goes round and round in circles most the time it is brought up but if the car is running hotter than normal (normal being the temp rating of the current thermostat) then isn't the thermostat staying in the open position pretty much all the time once it has heated up anyways? And the rest of the system just can't cool the water down enough to where the thermostat would close again.

In that situation I wouldn't think the thermostat opening up earlier would seem to help much.

In a perfect cooling setup changing the t-stat would move the needle on the guage to wherever the temp setting for the t-stat was but since the system can't keep up with things enough to stay at say 180 degrees then how could it keep things at 170?

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The temp gages in the 240z are notoriously inaccurate. When I bought my car new in Arizona, the temp ran 3/4 scale in the summer. My owners manual, I have a series 1 car,

says normal operation temp is from 170 - 220 F (3/4 scale). I used an infra-red thermometer to measure my coolant temp with the car at operating temp and, as I recall, the temp averages around 185-195F at the radiator, hoses, block, thermostat housing, etc.

Joseph Demers did an article for an early Z-CAR issue about calibrating the temp gage using a charted resistance value. I used his method, and calibrated my gage by plugging in a small resistor between the temp sensor and the pickup wire. I am trying to find that article and will post it when found. The gage reading in my car in the Arizona summer heat now registers around 185 (mid gage) - 195F which correlates very well with the thermometer readings that I had gotten. All components of my car, after restoration, are new or rebuilt.

Dan

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Trevor. I think that would be the case. That's why I was asking about running it without the cap.

Dan, I would be real interested in the article if you can locate it. That sounds like a great idea. It is just unnerving to see the gauge so high.

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Did I read that right? "Bring the temp up with the cap on. shut it off take the cap off"

Isn't it a bad idea to take the cap off once the temp is up?

Images of a trip to yellowstone come to mind:

There are two steps in taking a radiator cap off, the first one of which brings the cap dogs over to a carch. Twisting the cap to that position will release the pressure in the radiator with no OLD FAITHFUL effect while keeping the cap on the neck. Use a rag to soak up any hot water that might escape and wear a rubber dish washing glove if you are so inclined. DO NOT take the cap completely off until the pressure has been released.

The Infra red temp guns sound like a slick way to go as well. How expensive are they?

Remember:: It's not the postion of the needle that is worrysome...... It's the temperature of the water. Repeat after me. It's not the position of the ........

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Harbor Frieght sells a non contact laser type thermometer for about 60 bucks, sometimes less when they're on sale. Mine cost a little more than that but it's a bit higher end than the one Harbor sells.

Well, seems you pulled a Brett Favre on us, welcome back!

I'm glad this thread was started, I forgot all about water wetter. I used it in a E36 BMW years ago and it made a nice improvement in the coolant temp. I didn't drain/flush the existing coolant either. It gets hot here, I need to use this in my cars.

BD

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Well, seems you pulled a Brett Favre on us, welcome back!
It wasn't really a retirement. Maybe a self imposed suspension? Embarrassing, really, the way it took place and I'd just like to put it behind us (me?).
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