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Found 233 results

  1. new 1972 240z

    I just got a new 1972 240z this past Christmas. I am new to the forum and the car community in general as this is my first car. My dad grubb240z has been on the forum for a while.
  2. he following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and ship FREE in the continental US. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HXipGdIWp2IHk6SfDUrX3aJfp6l_r2HR?usp=sharing Series 2 Fuse Box Cover $40 Series 2 Combo and Turn Signal Switch (Turn signal switch has some cut wires) $100 pair SOLD Fan Switches $20 each Series 2 Hazard Switch $40 Series 1 Antenna Switch $50 Series 1 Cigarette Lighter $40 Inspection Lamps $10 each Assorted Electronics $5 each
  3. The following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and DO NOT include shipping prices. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Will get you a quote once you let me know where the items are shipping to (I can usually ship pretty cheap from work). Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dAuXnCWC6Tf1iL6HcD1UY-jAl-Lmutxj?usp=sharing Interior Fresh Air Intake Vents (2x Left side and 1x Right side) $10 each Dash Defrost/Vent Set (Everything shown in the pictures) $25 Engine Bay fresh air vent (Left Side) $10 Heater Fan $15 Heater Wiring Harness $15 Heater Controls $20 for the one without knobs, $30 for the one with knobs Heater Control Panels (Both are cracked on top, one on the bottom) $25 each I should have more 240z and 280zx items posted shortly. Chris
  4. 1972 240Z Rebuild

    Hi guys/gals, I have had a few people on various posts here and on reddit asking for a full build thread, so I am going to try to make that happen. This will be a documentation of the restoration and modification of my 1972 240Z. This project really started a year ago, so I will give a quick background. After that I will try to post regularly; it may take a week or two to get this thread up to date with the work I have done so far, but it is what it is. Some things will be out of order as I find time. If you want to follow real time then follow me on instagram if you like (d_stratton). Okay - this started in October of 2016 when I got my first 240z. I picked up this car (lets call this "the blue car") for 500 bucks. It was incredibly rusty and dirty 1973 model; it looked like it was parked outside for 20 years. The last tabs where 1988 and it was FILLED with rat/mice poo. But hey, for 500 bucks I got to enter into my dream car since I was a little boy. This turned out to be kind of a gold mine of a parts car - I didn't notice when I bought there was a whole separate dash with all the gauges and two sets of carburetors in the back trunk under a tarp. I disassembled this entire car down to a bare shell and sold quite a few parts off of it. I kept the suspension and the good dashboard from this car as well as some odds and ends. The shell was way to rusted to do anything with, ended up giving it away for free. These are all the pictures I have left of this car; unfortunately all my pictures from this time frame are lost.
  5. Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a long nose R200 differential! Ideally I would like a 4.1 CLSD. However I will happily settle for a 3.9 CLSD. I seem to be having poor luck with local yards and shops and decided to drop back in here as I scavenge. Additionally It would be wonderful if anyone has a 280z mustache bar from a part out! ... Or anywhere really, my swap budget has been exceeded already (probably not surprising)! Any direction or advice is greatly appreciated! Note: I'm a Canadian resident and I'm willing to ship for the right part! Thanks, Wesley
  6. Series 1 Update

    It's been a while since I've posted back on the forum but I wanted to check back in and show some progress of my 11/70 240z. I bought the car about 3 years ago and have done quite a bit of work on it since. I wanted to build a mostly period correct Japanese influenced race car for street use. It's in it's final stages now and I know it might not be some of the purists cup of tea but I know some of you may enjoy it and some of the rare bits and pieces I've compiled together. A lot of time, effort, money and blood and sweat has gone into it so far. This is how the car started, a mostly stock series 1 car with dealer option seat covers and wheels, blown out struts, unreliably dangerous brakes that probably hadn't been touched since 1970 and a tired L24. Still a beauty but needed quite a bit of work. Not a bad place to begin, but over the past 3 years I've slowly transformed it into what I thought the car should have been from the start. Not all of the pictures reflect the current status of the car but I'll post some more when I can. Interior is complete with Competition Bucket seats, T3 harness bar mount with a quick release extinguisher, Watanabe Falcon Steering wheel, Skyline shift knob, new door panels, Z embroidered carpet, rally clock, and some other bits and pieces including a radio delete panel with an AFR gauge cutoff switch and some switches. Also have a competition mirror in there and some other neat bits like a works bell QR. Exterior has gotten a refresh. I chose to keep the number rounds and get rid of the other vinyl that was on there. Straightened the black line along the door as well. Went with flares, a 432 spoiler, air dam and external oil cooler. Wheels are staggered 16x9.5 255/55/r16 rear and a 16x9 225/50/r16 on T3 coilover suspension. Brakes are totally redone with the silvermine stage 3 front and silvermine stage 4 rear (toyota 4 piston and mustang gt) with classictube stainless brake lines, 280z booster and wilwood 1" with wilwood proportioning valve. (ride height is a little high to help get a jack under the air dam. I also went with the zstory exhaust with the over under 432 style exhaust. Went with fender mirrors and note the sport corner sticker and other little bits and pieces! As for the engine, I swapped in a 3.1L stroker with some datsun competition mikuni phh44's. SK intake manifold with OER linkages, Zstory exhaust, Datsun spirit heat shield, JDM big Nissan Valve cover, mishimoto radiator and a bunch of other goodies both performance and dress up. Again, pictures are a little old but give you a good idea. Car's almost done and back on the road after quite a long time, but will get some better and more updated pictures when it is. Here's a side project of mine at the moment for "the next car": Competition 44's on a FET manifold paired with a Kakimoto 3100 cover and technical garage Ti stacks with some OER linkages.
  7. There is this listing on eBay with 100's of new parts most in boxes It states some of the parts numbers are for 620 truck. Would most of them be usable on 240Z i.e. 3/4" vs 7/8 master cylinder
  8. Check out this listing on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/112673464064
  9. Maryland Z Club

    If you live in Maryland, lookup the club on Classic Z Car Clubs and if interested check us out on the web and join us. http://www.mdzclub.org/joinus.cfm If you join, select "Internet Site" and list ClassicZCars.com in the comments as "How did you hear about us?"
  10. 1" (25mm) wheel wheel spacers (NEW)

    Selling two pairs of 1" / 25mm wheel spacers: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was gonna put these on my 280z but decided to go a different direction with wheels. They are 4x114.3 bolt pattern. As I found, they fit the rears fine, but the center bore is not large enough to fit the fronts. You will have to machine that out if you want to use them on the fronts. These are brand new with 0 miles on them. If you want, I can include hubcentric ring adapters (73.1mm center bore to 66.1mm) with them. Save yourself $20-$40 vs. buying online. $50 OBO shipped per pair or $90 OBO shipped for both pairs
  11. hello everyone im new here. but ive loved z cars since i played with them as a kid and new id still be playing with them as an adult but i have abit of a problem. My efi system is just a mess. im pretty sure the car might of had some water damage so i decided to switch to carburators. is there a major difference between n33 and n46 intake manifolds? which one fits my 1997 (cali model) 280z better. are there preformance difeerences? also which are better carbs for my car. i just wanna cruise and have awesome acceleratoin. should i go with twin su's or the triple weber setup? also if anyone has any carbs for sale at a reasonanble price please contact me thanks so much!
  12. I have been having issues with my OER SK 40mm carbs. The problem is very elusive and I have not been able to find the source. I will do my best to describe the problem and I am willing to clarify if needed. I am going to refer to carb(#1) as cylinders 1 and 2. Carbs #1 and #3 are perfectly fine, it is carb #2 that is acting up. I started to sync the carbs, first by disconnecting all the linkages. I managed to balance #1 and #3 using an unisyn tool. However, #2 (cylinders 3 and 4) would be run leaner than the others. I unscrewed the idle mixture screws for #2 a few turns, and it leaned out even more resulting in popping out the carb and a nearly white spark plug. Also the #2 would draw a lot more vacuum than #1 and #3, and I unscrewed the idle speed screw for #2 and #2 still ended up drawing a lot more vacuum. #2 has enough vacuum that when I touch the unisync tool on #2 the engine will nearly die and then fuel spills out and then rpm picks up a lot. However, I got the car to idle smooth enough by tuning by ear and I would hold rpm at 2.5k and 3k and the #2 carb would cough and the exhaust would back fire, checking the plugs (cylinder 3,4) they were even whiter than at idle. Meanwhile the other plugs were a nice brown. This issue has bee driving me mad. Issues list: 1. carb #2 runs lean 2. (all linkages disconnected)(speed screw backed off 100% for #2) carb #2 still draws more vacuum that #1 and #3 3. Carb #2, touched unisycn tool the engine nearly dies, fuel drips out of throat, engine speed rises rapidly 4. #2 meaning cyl3,4 mixture screw(1 turn), nearly white plug, all others are a nice tan 5. #2 mixture screw(2 turns), completely white plug, all others are a nice tan 6. rpms held at 2.5k and 3k carb #2 cough and exhaust back fire 7. rpms held at 2.5k and 3k carb #2 (plugs 3,4) are bone white, all others are a nice brown 8. no binding in the linkages, linkages move very smoothly 9. Sprayed carb cleaner on all joints and seals, no increase in rpm 10. float levels all set to the same factory settings
  13. Hey guys, I need new coilovers at all 4 corners. Regardless of the fact that I have no idea yet which ones to get, I need a few questions answered: Where did you take your coilovers + strut tube to have them welded together? (do I need a specialty shop or what?) How much did it cost to weld all 4 coilovers? (I plan on taking them the new coilovers + disassembled part) What do I need to provide to the shop to have the job done? (which OEM parts, what kind of info do I need to provide in terms of ride height, etc.)
  14. Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.
  15. Tracking down a Z

    Hey everybody. Im looking for an early 70s 240z. I cant find any in my area. I want one that needs work so I can put it back together the way I want to. Does anyone have a Z like this or one that is so rusted you just want to junk it. Preferably I want it to be under 300 bucks. A guy can dream.
  16. Nice fiberglass front end made in the early 1980's by Perfect Plastics Incorporated. These were previously installed, and will minor repairs and refinishing. Asking $400 for the set with pick up in Sturbridge, Massachusetts. Will crate and ship at buyer's expense. Paul
  17. Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.
  18. Would like to purchase a stainless steel header for my '72 240Z ... stock engine ... just wanted the longevity of stainless. Unable to find "state side" dealers that sale stainless headers. Anyone have suggestions or contacts? I looked at ZStory (nice product) but by the time I buy it and ship it it's +$700. Someone in the states needs to fill this gap with supplying stainless headers for the s30. Any leads appreciated. Thanks
  19. My trip to Tokyo

    Hello everyone, Lance here. I went to Japan this Summer, and am still quite excited. lol. It was a awsome trip which I didn't do much except running around finding parts and catching car shows. I brought my camra with me so there's a lot of pictures. And I think I'm going back next summer, again! First of all let me introduce myself. I'm 16, was born and raised in China. Came to the US for high school and I somehow bought a 240z on Ebay in Texas without seeing the car (I know, lucky I did get the car and I didn't know it's a L28 untill I got it). I'm in Michigan now, trying to get the car back on the road again. so far I rebuilt the engine with the classic flat top e31 high compression setup, running twin rebello bored out SU. Right now I'm trying to get the body straight again. Here's a shot of my pile of rust! Well that's another story. Anyway, trip to Japan! A shot I took from the Tokyo Sky tree. I don't know where to start so here you go! The main theme of my visit there was just get a feel of Japan and it's car culture. I obviously came from a country that doesn't have any. The whole "My car is cool" thing just started. Well, lets just put it this way. The oldest car I saw on the road is a clapped out new yorker. Being able to experience the American car scene, the Japanese culture, and the Chinese culture, lets just talk about it while I put pictures on this post. Here is a shot of the street I l stayed for 14 days. It's clean!!! Almost too clean in my opnion. The thing that amazed me is that it doesn't take much to clean it. It's the people who always kept them clean. At the start of my first day in japan, we went for the shopping center. The Ginza area. And of corse I went in the dooe as soon as I saw this. Nissan crossing is like a special dealership. They have all kinds of things from a wall full of touchscreen to some new concept. This one's got suicide doors. Knight rider might have designed this dash and steering wheel. And hey that seat looks like the one in mine! This is the GT concept 2020. I don't really have a opnion on this one. Aaaaand here is 600 horsepower and some wings. Here they have some flags of the great cars they made. Sad that none of those are Zs. We got the skyline brothers though! in case you're wondering the 1968 is the "3rd gen" written on the flag and it goes from there. Tired of seeing stuff that no one drives? Well I was and I went to Akihabara to catch some actions. And immidiatly there's a beast parking there! From the fan and the tissue box you can see that it's being driven. I like how they just randomly put a parking space there. It must be for one of those shop owners. It's weird you can see cars like this popping up randomly. In China there's not much cool cars, in US there's not much crowded areas. lol. This mx5 nailed it. Everything looks perfect. Yes I did stand in the middle of the road and took the picture. It's just too nice to miss. That's about it for the first day. I'm partly into watching animes so I spent some time running around the street looking at interesting stuff. This street is taken over by all the cute girls and stuff. But it is also a big electronic shopping street. I found a shop especially interesting. They rent shelf spaces to people who want to sell their old electronics. And the stuff they have there is just amazing. Old radios, reel to reel recorder, Sony casset recorders, phones, tube radios, it's just a treat to look at. If you ever visited there just don't carry money on you. It's like walking into a candy shop with a gift card. I'm afraid that this post might be too long, so I'm going to devide it into parts.
  20. 1973 240z

    I'm selling my 73 240z, if interested heres a link to its craigslist posting. It will need to be towed. https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/6301637614.html
  21. Selling a 1972 RHD 240z from Japan

    True Right Hand Drive Datsun 240z from Japan (foreign VIN plate to prove it), otherwise known as the Nissan Fairlady Z. Let me make it clear that great lengths have been taken to ensure no rust in this car. It's all steel and completely straight. 2.8L engine with triple Mikuni carbs, a 5 speed transmission, R200 rear, 3 core aluminum radiator. Brand new paint job completed August 2016 in correct original Orange 918. Disc brakes on every wheel with red calipers, rear kit is brand new. Brand new fully stainless steel exhaust. Brand new coilover suspension from TechnoToy Tuning. Brand new white interior including door panels and dog legs with heat-bonded chrome strip (4 months to make on a custom order). Brand new carpet, custom made for Right Hand Drive arrangement. Brand new weatherstripping kit. 1 key car. Original steering wheel completely restored. Brand new horn button with BLUE color Z emblem (JDM). Brand new from Nissan chrome lining strips for windshield and rear hatch, installed. Brand new exterior chrome door handles from Nissan. Brand new chrome bullet fender mirrors. Brand new exterior door window chrome mouldings. Brand new sound deafening and vibration reducing Dynamat installed on the entire floor and doors. Brand new Nissan Gas Cap. Alpine head unit with Sony amps and Sub ready to be installed. Gas tank was fully restored a year ago. Grille has been restored. Front AND Rear bumpers are included, although not pictured. Miscellaneous interior pieces are almost all there - arm rests, window cranks, window mechanisms, sunvisors, seats. No glass is missing. Clean CA title in hand. There is not much left to complete the project; this will make someone an amazing car. Please note that I am selling this car AS IS, and it has been sitting for some time. MAKE ME AN OFFER PLEASE, or check it out on eBay - just search for "Datsun 240z RHD JDM Nissan Fairlady Z 1972"
  22. Hi everyone, I've read that the tokico rear illumina struts are the same thing as the front, but just have a short piece of tubing at the bottom that lengthens them just a bit. To anyone who's installed some tokico struts and dealt with the spacer- what is the proper length of the spacer so that the struts sit at the proper height? I'm picked up two pairs of front struts and am planning on just making the small spacer myself. Has anyone done that? I'm wondering what size tubing to buy and the proper length to cut it. If anyone has any advice, please let me know.
  23. In the process of getting a 1971 240 back on the road after a 24-year sleep, and I'm looking for shops to do a differential rebuild, tranny rebuild, engine block/head work. Massachusetts area preferred, but would travel anywhere in the northeast area. Datsun specialty/experience would be a bonus, of course. Thanks!
  24. Hello, I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z which has a few issues which needed to be rectified to pass inspection here. One of which was the reverse lights not working, which I thought would be a simple fix. -I haven't checked the reverse switch itself yet, because there is a continuity issue with the red/black wiring ( I jumped the red to red black cables at the switch but nothing) - I have power at the red wire to the switch. Here is where things are confusing me. I have continuity from the red/black wire at the switch to the red/black wire at the three prong connector (shared with YG/BY) from the engine compartment harness to the dash harness. However, there are two red/black wires going to the body harness from the dash harness, neither of which have continuity through the dash harness. This is the first issue. Second issue is the body harness itself has been subject to some serious modification. The body harness has THREE red/black wires (one of which looks like rear defroster), but the ones of the pronged connectors do not have continuity with the wiring at the reverse lights. The only wire that has continuity with the wiring at the lights is a red/black wire that has been connected to the spade going to the pass side door switch (??). Also, the wiring going up the frame after the seat has been chopped, and been butt spliced to different colored wiring. However, at the tail end of the car, most of the wiring appears factory. I know I could simply bypass the dash harness altogether. My questions: - What is the purpose of the black wire at the body harness connector? What else is going to ground from the dash harness? It appears the body harness has its own ground point. - Is the reverse light wire going through a pronged connector on the dash harness to the body harness on Series 1 240z or is it a separate butt style connection? - What do I do with the door switch? I never checked if it actually works. I wouldnt be too bothered if it doesnt however. Thanks for your help!
  25. Hello all, I'm new to the forum and also to the Z life. I have already looked around quite a few times and this forum was always very helpful. I was always fond of the S30's and earlier this year I finally found a 76' 280Z that I could afford (and that my wife would let me buy). I don't have a lot of mechanics notions, but the idea was also to learn as much as possible from this project, as it has relatively simple mechanics. So I have already started tinkering with it and repairing some stuff to get it on the road. This car has a L28 with twin carburetors, weird, because every time I see something about the 280Z it is injection, but the car does have signs of the engine having been removed or replaced at some point. Many things are disconnected, although the main stuff for the car to run is working. My plan with this car is to get it running reliably to take it out on the road and enjoy it. I'm not necessarily looking to restore it completely just yet or doing it all original. Partly because of time and mostly because my wife won't let me spend a lot of money. So my priority with time is to give it a new suspension and alter on a new paintjob and in between trying to get the little things done step by step. Now I had gotten to a point where the car was actually running pretty smoothly, but 2 months ago I started experiencing some trouble. The engine started hesitating when on the road, and after a lot of trouble shooting and you tube videos and carburetor twitching I am pretty sure my problem is that there must be rust in the tank and the rust is clogging the fuel line and not allowing the fuel to get to the engine. So my next step is going to be to remove the tank and clean it and hope that solves my issue. My problem is that I live at an apartment complex in Midtown Atlanta and, although I can work on the car, I don't have the space or possibilities to do anything major or leaving the car unable to run for a few days. That is why I only trust myself doing some minor repairs, as I don't have much experience yet. So if there is anyone in the area that likes to lend a hand I will be happy to accept it and provide the beer.
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