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Found 222 results

  1. Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.
  2. Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.
  3. I have been having issues with my OER SK 40mm carbs. The problem is very elusive and I have not been able to find the source. I will do my best to describe the problem and I am willing to clarify if needed. I am going to refer to carb(#1) as cylinders 1 and 2. Carbs #1 and #3 are perfectly fine, it is carb #2 that is acting up. I started to sync the carbs, first by disconnecting all the linkages. I managed to balance #1 and #3 using an unisyn tool. However, #2 (cylinders 3 and 4) would be run leaner than the others. I unscrewed the idle mixture screws for #2 a few turns, and it leaned out even more resulting in popping out the carb and a nearly white spark plug. Also the #2 would draw a lot more vacuum than #1 and #3, and I unscrewed the idle speed screw for #2 and #2 still ended up drawing a lot more vacuum. #2 has enough vacuum that when I touch the unisync tool on #2 the engine will nearly die and then fuel spills out and then rpm picks up a lot. However, I got the car to idle smooth enough by tuning by ear and I would hold rpm at 2.5k and 3k and the #2 carb would cough and the exhaust would back fire, checking the plugs (cylinder 3,4) they were even whiter than at idle. Meanwhile the other plugs were a nice brown. This issue has bee driving me mad. Issues list: 1. carb #2 runs lean 2. (all linkages disconnected)(speed screw backed off 100% for #2) carb #2 still draws more vacuum that #1 and #3 3. Carb #2, touched unisycn tool the engine nearly dies, fuel drips out of throat, engine speed rises rapidly 4. #2 meaning cyl3,4 mixture screw(1 turn), nearly white plug, all others are a nice tan 5. #2 mixture screw(2 turns), completely white plug, all others are a nice tan 6. rpms held at 2.5k and 3k carb #2 cough and exhaust back fire 7. rpms held at 2.5k and 3k carb #2 (plugs 3,4) are bone white, all others are a nice brown 8. no binding in the linkages, linkages move very smoothly 9. Sprayed carb cleaner on all joints and seals, no increase in rpm 10. float levels all set to the same factory settings
  4. Hey guys, I need new coilovers at all 4 corners. Regardless of the fact that I have no idea yet which ones to get, I need a few questions answered: Where did you take your coilovers + strut tube to have them welded together? (do I need a specialty shop or what?) How much did it cost to weld all 4 coilovers? (I plan on taking them the new coilovers + disassembled part) What do I need to provide to the shop to have the job done? (which OEM parts, what kind of info do I need to provide in terms of ride height, etc.)
  5. Hello all, I'm new to the forum and also to the Z life. I have already looked around quite a few times and this forum was always very helpful. I was always fond of the S30's and earlier this year I finally found a 76' 280Z that I could afford (and that my wife would let me buy). I don't have a lot of mechanics notions, but the idea was also to learn as much as possible from this project, as it has relatively simple mechanics. So I have already started tinkering with it and repairing some stuff to get it on the road. This car has a L28 with twin carburetors, weird, because every time I see something about the 280Z it is injection, but the car does have signs of the engine having been removed or replaced at some point. Many things are disconnected, although the main stuff for the car to run is working. My plan with this car is to get it running reliably to take it out on the road and enjoy it. I'm not necessarily looking to restore it completely just yet or doing it all original. Partly because of time and mostly because my wife won't let me spend a lot of money. So my priority with time is to give it a new suspension and alter on a new paintjob and in between trying to get the little things done step by step. Now I had gotten to a point where the car was actually running pretty smoothly, but 2 months ago I started experiencing some trouble. The engine started hesitating when on the road, and after a lot of trouble shooting and you tube videos and carburetor twitching I am pretty sure my problem is that there must be rust in the tank and the rust is clogging the fuel line and not allowing the fuel to get to the engine. So my next step is going to be to remove the tank and clean it and hope that solves my issue. My problem is that I live at an apartment complex in Midtown Atlanta and, although I can work on the car, I don't have the space or possibilities to do anything major or leaving the car unable to run for a few days. That is why I only trust myself doing some minor repairs, as I don't have much experience yet. So if there is anyone in the area that likes to lend a hand I will be happy to accept it and provide the beer.
  6. In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and miscellaneous connectors Fuel Hose My first step was to plumb the engine block for an Oil Sensor Safety Switch. As you can see from the picture below, I inserted a "T" joint to allow me to keep the current oil pressure gauge (second picture) as well as the new safety switch. Next I needed to design a reliable and safe wiring scheme which would incorporate the factory wiring for a fuel pump but also allow for the safety switch and relay. In the diagram I drew below, the GRN wire and the BLK/WHT already exist in the wiring harnesses; the plug is just taped to another set of wires below the fuse box. The fuel wire harness is held with blue tape (see circle). The BLK/WHT wire is live with the ignition switch. The GRN wire goes back to the fuel pump (wired from the factory). There are two unused harnesses. Left is the Fuel Pump, right is the Fog Lights Here are two initial photos of the new electric fuel pump installed. I ended up using an existing bolt/nut for the mustache bar to mount the pump.
  7. Tracking down a Z

    Hey everybody. Im looking for an early 70s 240z. I cant find any in my area. I want one that needs work so I can put it back together the way I want to. Does anyone have a Z like this or one that is so rusted you just want to junk it. Preferably I want it to be under 300 bucks. A guy can dream.
  8. Selling many cars and parts. This is just the start. There will be more cars and parts eventually added. So many parts and cars to go through. Some are merely parts cars and some are builders. These are pick up or buyer responsible for shipping. We cannot ship parts or cars to you. If you are looking for certain items you can call or message and we will find out if we have it or not. Very extensive collection of parts being sold. So your patience is appreciated. 1974 260Z $2000 Has 1/74 build date, 4 barrel intake, Holley carb, ceramic coated header, motor, Repairable car, needs work or use as a donor. No seats, some rust, small bumper 260, Orange color. 1972 240Z parts car $500 Has 9/71 build date, parts car or donor car. Rough and has rust. Has some interior. Still has usable parts and metal. Orange color. 1983 280ZX parts car $1000 Has 11/82 build date, mostly complete, w/ motor, 5 speed. Silver color. 1974 260Z $1500 Mostly complete, 4 barrel, 4 speed, w/ motor, has rust, builder or donor car for parts. 1979 280ZX parts car $1000 Has 5 speed, w/ motor, blue and silver color. 1978 280Z automatic $3000 Automatic, complete car, has air dam, rear spoiler, side skirts, headlight covers, better condition, may have minor rust. This car is in building couldn't inspect it completely. This was running when parked years ago and has sat. Black color. 1978 280Z $3000 5 speed, mostly complete, w/ motor, has ZX seats, air dam, fiberglass molded to body fender flares not completely finished, This is also in a shed and couldn't be fully inspected yet. Also ran when parked years ago. Gray primer color. 1974 260Z 2+2 $2000 Comes with another 2+2 parts car. Will post more info on this car later. Forgot to inspect it. 1990 Z32 $1500 has all parts, some removed, new set of headlight buckets, automatic, ran when parked, burgandy color. w/ title 1 Cartech style 4 barrel intake. These bolt to SU intake so you can run a 4 barrel. $125 1 set 1972 240Z bumpers $300 1 set of 1972 240Z front turn signals $150 3 Jim Cook Racing body kits / front fenders/rear quarters and whale tail, NO air dam. $1000 each. There will be more cars and specific parts added to this as we can sort though everything. It will take time to do this. We will try and answer questions as soon as possible. And will check for parts you are looking for. This is a huge collection assembled since the 70's and will require searching for parts. I will edit and update this as cars and parts are added. REMEMBER: We will not be able to ship anything. This is pickup or arrange for shipper to pick up for you ONLY. Also, these cars are not perfect and do have some rust, need repair, or rebuilt or used as donor cars to complete your projects. You can message here or call or text 423-457-2958 423-504-3237
  9. Hello All, I got serious about buying a Z over the summer. I've been in love with them since I was about 8. I've been reading the forums for about six months and after test driving two found Layla three weeks ago. She's a two owner car, originally from VA but owned since 1976 from the guy I bought it from. He bought it from a Datsun dealership when it was three years old. He drove it around TX and TN in the 70s and 80s and into the 90s. 159,XXX original miles. He said the first owner installed a roll bar, chrome rims, and headers. I have all of his registrations and most documentation of stuff he's done to it. It has pretty much sat in storage for the past 10-15 years with him spending $2,000 a couple years ago (have receipts) trying to get it back on the road. He said this car has outlived any relationship he's ever had, and backed out of selling it to someone else once before. I'm not going to say I stole it, but he gave me one heck of a deal in my opinion including a military discount. Before I bought it I had it put on a lift and did a dry compression test on the engine. It is "virtually rust free," with the factory undercoating still on it. It was repainted 10 years ago in the factory silver color. There is a 3"x3" patch pop riveted onto the driver's side floor, and 2"x2" hole on the passengers side under the seat, likely from the A/C condensation. He told me he never looked under the car. Not necessarily believable, but I believe some people never do so. I also have the FSM and the Mechanic's manual, not sure what it's called, and the carb balance meter. There is also a 1.5" hole under the batter tray. The interior looks great in my opinion; it has a dashcap with one crack, seat covers, stock floor mats, brand new carpet otherwise. Headliner is original and looks great. The engine compression yielded 145-150 psi in all cylinders except one; 1st cylinder was 135. I would've liked higher numbers, but the engine has a good amount of miles so I'm happy at this point. When I test drove it, the car was a little sluggish, but the guy was just frustrated saying "it's not the car it used to be." He said his local mechanic refused to rebuilt the SUs. Since I've had it, I've done the following things: Things I've done thus far: - Castrol high mileage 10w-30 oil change with "engine restore," Lucas oil treatment, and sea foam. Normally I wouldn't put this many additives in, but the car has basically been sitting for 10 years. - Filled gas tank with 93 octane gasoline and fuel system cleaner to help burn off carbon deposits. (I think I'll go lower next tank) - Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to factory specifications. - Replaced rattling muffler with a Magnaflow Turbo XL model. - Replaced 2 year old champion spark plugs with Bosch platinum version. I wanted NGK plugs to go with my wires but they weren't in stock. Plugs were gapped at the higher end of the factory recommendation to accommodate for the higher octane fuel to 0.035". - Spent two hours cleaning the upper half of the carbs and balancing them to factory specs. I will rebuild them within two months. - Cleaned/degreaser valve cover. - Next steps are to put in new distributor points, condenser, and oil pressure sending unit. Flush transmission and rear end gear oil. Buy a timing light and dial in the timing. Replace/upgrade coil. I have been meaning to start this thread since I bought the car; I am behind so I'll be updating the progress I've already completed on a gradual basis. The pictures are after the things I did listed above. Thanks for reading.
  10. Nice fiberglass front end made in the early 1980's by Perfect Plastics Incorporated. These were previously installed, and will minor repairs and refinishing. Asking $400 for the set with pick up in Sturbridge, Massachusetts. Will crate and ship at buyer's expense. Paul
  11. Who would be interested in a Bolder Tint? If you are older than 40, you remember them. Mirrored mylar with block-letter logos that stuck to the inside of your windshield, like so: After several years of looking, I have made a breakthrough. I have located and contacted the original manufacturer of the Bolder Tint brand. While the company no longer does automotive products, he does still have the original dies for the S30 windshield, and is willing to do a batch for us. These would be the real thing - true Bolder Tints by the original maker, not replicas. Here's the ground rules, and where we stand on this: 1.) This would be an exclusive to CZCC. The manufacturer wants it to be a club-related project. No direct offers would be posted on other Z sites. 2.) Minimum order is 100 units. 3.) The 100 units do not all have to be the same logo, but there would be a minimum of 20 units per logo. Logos available would probably include "240-Z" (as pictured above) and "280-Z". If we can get 20 or more commitments on either of "260-Z" and/or "DATSUN" those may be possible as well. 4.) Estimated price per unit would be $30-35 each, including shipping within the USA. Perhaps a small break for multiples to the same address, although any break may not be much, as each unit will come pre-packaged with instructions in its own mailing tube. So multiple shipping savings may be small. 5.) At prices in that range, I should be able to break even, or perhaps there may be a buck or two "profit" over my costs. If so, any amount over and above true cost and shipping will be donated to CZCC. There will not be any personal profit for the facilitator (me). The plan is this - We'll start with this poll, to try to determine demand. Don't send money yet. If the demand is such that we feel comfortable with the possibility of selling at least 100, the next step would be to accept pre-paid pre-orders. Once enough pre-orders come in that I am certain that costs would be covered, I will order the units, and then shortly begin shipping them out. If it breaks down before the parts are ordered, refunds for pre-paid orders will be given. So here's step 1 - the poll. I've set this up to allow people to vote for more than one choice, so vote for as many as apply. This poll is not a firm committment to buy. But please don't vote if you aren't fairly certain, as we need a pretty accurate count to proceed to the next step.
  12. Would like to purchase a stainless steel header for my '72 240Z ... stock engine ... just wanted the longevity of stainless. Unable to find "state side" dealers that sale stainless headers. Anyone have suggestions or contacts? I looked at ZStory (nice product) but by the time I buy it and ship it it's +$700. Someone in the states needs to fill this gap with supplying stainless headers for the s30. Any leads appreciated. Thanks
  13. My trip to Tokyo

    Hello everyone, Lance here. I went to Japan this Summer, and am still quite excited. lol. It was a awsome trip which I didn't do much except running around finding parts and catching car shows. I brought my camra with me so there's a lot of pictures. And I think I'm going back next summer, again! First of all let me introduce myself. I'm 16, was born and raised in China. Came to the US for high school and I somehow bought a 240z on Ebay in Texas without seeing the car (I know, lucky I did get the car and I didn't know it's a L28 untill I got it). I'm in Michigan now, trying to get the car back on the road again. so far I rebuilt the engine with the classic flat top e31 high compression setup, running twin rebello bored out SU. Right now I'm trying to get the body straight again. Here's a shot of my pile of rust! Well that's another story. Anyway, trip to Japan! A shot I took from the Tokyo Sky tree. I don't know where to start so here you go! The main theme of my visit there was just get a feel of Japan and it's car culture. I obviously came from a country that doesn't have any. The whole "My car is cool" thing just started. Well, lets just put it this way. The oldest car I saw on the road is a clapped out new yorker. Being able to experience the American car scene, the Japanese culture, and the Chinese culture, lets just talk about it while I put pictures on this post. Here is a shot of the street I l stayed for 14 days. It's clean!!! Almost too clean in my opnion. The thing that amazed me is that it doesn't take much to clean it. It's the people who always kept them clean. At the start of my first day in japan, we went for the shopping center. The Ginza area. And of corse I went in the dooe as soon as I saw this. Nissan crossing is like a special dealership. They have all kinds of things from a wall full of touchscreen to some new concept. This one's got suicide doors. Knight rider might have designed this dash and steering wheel. And hey that seat looks like the one in mine! This is the GT concept 2020. I don't really have a opnion on this one. Aaaaand here is 600 horsepower and some wings. Here they have some flags of the great cars they made. Sad that none of those are Zs. We got the skyline brothers though! in case you're wondering the 1968 is the "3rd gen" written on the flag and it goes from there. Tired of seeing stuff that no one drives? Well I was and I went to Akihabara to catch some actions. And immidiatly there's a beast parking there! From the fan and the tissue box you can see that it's being driven. I like how they just randomly put a parking space there. It must be for one of those shop owners. It's weird you can see cars like this popping up randomly. In China there's not much cool cars, in US there's not much crowded areas. lol. This mx5 nailed it. Everything looks perfect. Yes I did stand in the middle of the road and took the picture. It's just too nice to miss. That's about it for the first day. I'm partly into watching animes so I spent some time running around the street looking at interesting stuff. This street is taken over by all the cute girls and stuff. But it is also a big electronic shopping street. I found a shop especially interesting. They rent shelf spaces to people who want to sell their old electronics. And the stuff they have there is just amazing. Old radios, reel to reel recorder, Sony casset recorders, phones, tube radios, it's just a treat to look at. If you ever visited there just don't carry money on you. It's like walking into a candy shop with a gift card. I'm afraid that this post might be too long, so I'm going to devide it into parts.
  14. 1973 240z

    I'm selling my 73 240z, if interested heres a link to its craigslist posting. It will need to be towed. https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/6301637614.html
  15. Selling a 1972 RHD 240z from Japan

    True Right Hand Drive Datsun 240z from Japan (foreign VIN plate to prove it), otherwise known as the Nissan Fairlady Z. Let me make it clear that great lengths have been taken to ensure no rust in this car. It's all steel and completely straight. 2.8L engine with triple Mikuni carbs, a 5 speed transmission, R200 rear, 3 core aluminum radiator. Brand new paint job completed August 2016 in correct original Orange 918. Disc brakes on every wheel with red calipers, rear kit is brand new. Brand new fully stainless steel exhaust. Brand new coilover suspension from TechnoToy Tuning. Brand new white interior including door panels and dog legs with heat-bonded chrome strip (4 months to make on a custom order). Brand new carpet, custom made for Right Hand Drive arrangement. Brand new weatherstripping kit. 1 key car. Original steering wheel completely restored. Brand new horn button with BLUE color Z emblem (JDM). Brand new from Nissan chrome lining strips for windshield and rear hatch, installed. Brand new exterior chrome door handles from Nissan. Brand new chrome bullet fender mirrors. Brand new exterior door window chrome mouldings. Brand new sound deafening and vibration reducing Dynamat installed on the entire floor and doors. Brand new Nissan Gas Cap. Alpine head unit with Sony amps and Sub ready to be installed. Gas tank was fully restored a year ago. Grille has been restored. Front AND Rear bumpers are included, although not pictured. Miscellaneous interior pieces are almost all there - arm rests, window cranks, window mechanisms, sunvisors, seats. No glass is missing. Clean CA title in hand. There is not much left to complete the project; this will make someone an amazing car. Please note that I am selling this car AS IS, and it has been sitting for some time. MAKE ME AN OFFER PLEASE, or check it out on eBay - just search for "Datsun 240z RHD JDM Nissan Fairlady Z 1972"
  16. Hi everyone, I've read that the tokico rear illumina struts are the same thing as the front, but just have a short piece of tubing at the bottom that lengthens them just a bit. To anyone who's installed some tokico struts and dealt with the spacer- what is the proper length of the spacer so that the struts sit at the proper height? I'm picked up two pairs of front struts and am planning on just making the small spacer myself. Has anyone done that? I'm wondering what size tubing to buy and the proper length to cut it. If anyone has any advice, please let me know.
  17. In the process of getting a 1971 240 back on the road after a 24-year sleep, and I'm looking for shops to do a differential rebuild, tranny rebuild, engine block/head work. Massachusetts area preferred, but would travel anywhere in the northeast area. Datsun specialty/experience would be a bonus, of course. Thanks!
  18. I have a blue 1971 240z with wide body and 350 V8, runs great and smooth with electron ignition, starter, new fans, cooling system, pumps, rebuild transmission, new gasket, new brakes and brake lines, exhaust pipe, gas pump, fuel cell lines, etc. spend over $10k in the fix last year with receipts! All it needs is maybe a new paint job! Check out the video http://youtu.be/H6N3FwkAKtwIt runs great without any issues and I drive it to work sometimes. Asking $13000 o.b.o.
  19. Hello, I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z which has a few issues which needed to be rectified to pass inspection here. One of which was the reverse lights not working, which I thought would be a simple fix. -I haven't checked the reverse switch itself yet, because there is a continuity issue with the red/black wiring ( I jumped the red to red black cables at the switch but nothing) - I have power at the red wire to the switch. Here is where things are confusing me. I have continuity from the red/black wire at the switch to the red/black wire at the three prong connector (shared with YG/BY) from the engine compartment harness to the dash harness. However, there are two red/black wires going to the body harness from the dash harness, neither of which have continuity through the dash harness. This is the first issue. Second issue is the body harness itself has been subject to some serious modification. The body harness has THREE red/black wires (one of which looks like rear defroster), but the ones of the pronged connectors do not have continuity with the wiring at the reverse lights. The only wire that has continuity with the wiring at the lights is a red/black wire that has been connected to the spade going to the pass side door switch (??). Also, the wiring going up the frame after the seat has been chopped, and been butt spliced to different colored wiring. However, at the tail end of the car, most of the wiring appears factory. I know I could simply bypass the dash harness altogether. My questions: - What is the purpose of the black wire at the body harness connector? What else is going to ground from the dash harness? It appears the body harness has its own ground point. - Is the reverse light wire going through a pronged connector on the dash harness to the body harness on Series 1 240z or is it a separate butt style connection? - What do I do with the door switch? I never checked if it actually works. I wouldnt be too bothered if it doesnt however. Thanks for your help!
  20. Hi all, I am posting this for a fellow member @stanleyp. He sent me a reply today when our club sent him a happy birthday message. It looks like he cannot drive the car anymore and would like to sell it to a club member. Here's some info about the car. It looks like a very well kept, low mileage, S30 in yellow (my favorite color). You can call Stanley at 315-633-2421. I should have more pics from him soon. His listed price is $19,500 OBO. One owner: Original motor with triple Weber's and K&N air filters, High performance Mallory High-Fire distributor, Coil and ignition module, New tires on original Mag rims, New high performance shocks and custom exhaust system, New fuel delivery and return system with high volume "pusher" pump. Engine compression over 180 psig in all six cylinders. Automatic transmission complete overhaul and rebuild, i.e., manually shift thru three gears or let the automatic do it for you. A great classic high power show car. Appraised by NY state appraiser at $25,000. Standard Oil Changes, Garage Kept, Accident Free, Clean, Non-Smoker. Year: 1971 Manufacturer: Datsun Model / Trim: 240Z Condition: Good Location: Kirkville, NY 13082 Mileage: 89,000 miles (143,231 kms) Doors: 2 Engine: 6 Cylinder Transmission: Automatic Exterior: Yellow Interior: Black
  21. What gauges to use?

    1972 240z My gauges are not working properly anymore, either due to wiring or due to calibration issues. What gauges do you recommend/use? Tried some $70 set from napa but it wouldn't fit right. I saw on thezstore.com they had some gauges but they were like $400 for fuel, temp, and oil pressure. I would prefer black or white faces and that they light up. Thanks guys.
  22. Any one have a 69 - 71 transmission crossmember that you are willing to sell??
  23. 1972 JCR 240z

    I haven't been able to post on all the z forums I think this is the last one lol. I picked up a 1972 240z with Jim Cook Racing California Z body kit on it. This car was completely restored in 1981 by the first owner, I picked it up from the second owner who drove it from 83-93 and left it garaged since. I vacuumed out the rats nest, gave her a good wash today after 25 years of dust, did an oil change(so black and reeked of gas) wiped down all surfaces from rat pee, and treated the battery tray with acid treatment and painted it since it's empty and only surface rust currently.
  24. HLS30-000105 is now for sale on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-240z-Series-1-/292151078816?hash=item44058fafa0:g:dCsAAOSwFqNZQM9-&vxp=mtr Has 49 bids to $15,000 within 4 hours after being listed. It was listed on CL and within a short time after I posted on here the listing was taken down. I should ask the guy for a finder's fee.
  25. Hello I recently bought a 1976 280z and it is sitting pretty high and I would like to lower it respectably not slam it. I was wondering if a set of 240 springs would be compatible with it to bring the height down. Or what would be the best thing to do. I do not have a lot of money to throw at it so I am not looking at getting coil overs.
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