The Classic Zcar Club en-us Fri, 24 Oct 2014 21:15:56 +0000 PhotoPost ReviewPost 5.2 60 R/T Differential Mount;title=r-2ft-differential-mount&amp;cat=8 Wed, 18 Jan 2012 17:08:12 +0000 <a href=";title=r-2ft-differential-mount&amp;cat=8"><img title="DiffMount_004.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="DiffMount_004.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Rainman<br /><br />Description: A steel differential mount made to replace the OEM strap that is installed over the top of the differential to keep the nose of the differential from rising under hard acceleration. The frame is steel and powder coated black, and a black Urethane stop is included which is trimmed to fit upon installation. The construction of the mount is good though I had to modify the dimensions in order for it to fit my early '74 260Z. The part was too wide at the top to fit in the transmission tunnel which tapers inward as it rises. I had to have about 3/32 of an inch cut out of the top of the mount and then weld it back together to get it to fit in my car. I also had to notch an area of the driver side of the mount to allow it to fit over an exhaust hanger that was in the transmission tunnel of my car. The part is powder coated. Overall a very worthwhile addition to the car but it isn't plug and play by any means. Steering Wheel Recovering;title=steering-wheel-recovering&amp;cat=4 Wed, 14 Sep 2011 19:49:05 +0000 <a href=";title=steering-wheel-recovering&amp;cat=4"><img title="Original_Steering_Wheel_Revisited_-_1.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="Original_Steering_Wheel_Revisited_-_1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: thomas461<br /><br />Description: I wanted my factory steering wheel recovered and repaired. The original had taken that nice Alligator Skin look and feel. I found the folks at craft customs in Rockwall, TX as a place that specialized in steering wheel recovering. Understand I was looking to have the original replaced, there are cheaper units out there but I wanted the original redone. For $300 they did a fantastic job of relining the metal with new foam, and then recovering the original with new leather. They took about 4 weeks to complete the job but in my opinion it was worth the wait. This leather is like glove leather. It is so soft and pleasant to hold. Insert dirty remark here... :) Super nice folks to deal with and great communications. Multiple LED's;title=multiple-led-27s&amp;cat=7 Wed, 14 Sep 2011 19:38:45 +0000 <a href=";title=multiple-led-27s&amp;cat=7"><img title="LED_Install_-_101.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="LED_Install_-_101.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: thomas461<br /><br />Description: I was looking for a way to bring down the draw from my little 50Amp alternator and I came across an article posted by Stevej on swapping out the original lamps throughout the car with LED's. I read the post and also did some homework of my own on the internet and they seemed to be a reputable company. I got my FSM and got all the SAE part numbers for the bulbs and placed my order online. NOTE: Don't use the what kind of car do you have. It will give you the wrong bulbs. Look them up by SAE number. I ordered them on a Monday and by Thursday I had a bag of 24 new LED's. I did all the exterior lights (Side Markers, Flashers, Brake lights, Running Lights, and back up lights) and also the interior lights (Speedo, Tach, Three gauges, map light and dome light) $116 Delivered This has caused a major drop in draw and everything just seems to work better and is a whole light brighter. You can see the LED's on my profile or my blog. 260Z Tach;title=260z-tach&amp;cat=7 Wed, 14 Sep 2011 19:02:41 +0000 <a href=";title=260z-tach&amp;cat=7"><img title="Dash_Back_Together_-_0180.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="Dash_Back_Together_-_0180.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: thomas461<br /><br />Description: I had a non functioning tachometer and wanted to have it repaired. I searched the forums and also the web and all the reviews seem to come back to one place. Bob's Speedometer in Michigan. I was a bit leery but after I talked with them I had a much better feeling. Originally, I was going to purchase a replacement from some of the Z part suppliers who do a refurbished Tach for insane amounts of money. I want a quality product but I also don't want to pay too much for it. I called Bob's and got an initial quote that was $150 cheaper than a refurb and have the original part that came with the car. So I boxed up the tach and sent it off to Michigan hoping it would make it there, get repaired and make it home in one piece. Well I can happily report it did. I got it back in about three weeks and it was absolutely spotless. I installed it and everything worked like a champ. I don't think the clear plastic cover has ever been this clean, ever! Check out the website these guys do all kinds of work on all kinds of cars. They charged me $260 to fix the tach and sent me something back that looks like it came directly from the manufacturer. Gold Glass Leather and Vinyl Cleaner;title=gold-glass-leather-and-vinyl-cleaner&amp;cat=20 Tue, 09 Aug 2011 03:09:40 +0000 Sisal front mats;title=sisal-front-mats&amp;cat=4 Tue, 08 Jun 2010 03:26:30 +0000 <a href=";title=sisal-front-mats&amp;cat=4"><img title="DSC_1836.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="DSC_1836.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Arne<br /><br />Description: Handcrafted floor mats for fine vehicles. Plastic X;title=plastic-x&amp;cat=20 Tue, 18 Aug 2009 05:10:07 +0000 Dual K &amp; N Air Cleaners;title=dual-k26amp-3b-n-air-cleaners&amp;cat=9 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 14:50:05 +0000 <a href=";title=dual-k26amp-3b-n-air-cleaners&amp;cat=9"><img title="large114010_1_.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="large114010_1_.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: ConchZ<br /><br />Description: Replaces the factory air cleaner. ZClocks Clock Rebuilding Service;title=zclocks-clock-rebuilding-service&amp;cat=7 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 02:51:06 +0000 <a href=";title=zclocks-clock-rebuilding-service&amp;cat=7"><img title="240qtzf_1_.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="240qtzf_1_.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: ConchZ<br /><br />Description: Ron at Zclocks will replace the mechanical movement in your old clock with a quartz movement. He'll also clean up your clock, polishing the lens and repainting the body. What you get back is a nearly new looking clock that plugs up to your factory wiring harness, unlike those refurbished clocks that have a remotely connected AA battery. Leather Plus;title=leather-plus&amp;cat=20 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 01:53:54 +0000 <a href=";title=leather-plus&amp;cat=20"><img title="t_66319-01_1_.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="t_66319-01_1_.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: ConchZ<br /><br />Description: Another in the long list of products to preserve leather and vinyl. Dashboard Bulb Kit;title=dashboard-bulb-kit&amp;cat=7 Sun, 17 May 2009 01:35:11 +0000 <a href=";title=dashboard-bulb-kit&amp;cat=7"><img title="large454330_1_.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="large454330_1_.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: ConchZ<br /><br />Description: Upgrade to brighter instrument lights Floors and Floor Supports;title=floors-and-floor-supports&amp;cat=5 Thu, 12 Mar 2009 02:59:19 +0000 <a href=";title=floors-and-floor-supports&amp;cat=5"><img title="FloorPan.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="FloorPan.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: ConchZ<br /><br />Description: These floors and under floor support rails will replace the flat part of the floors, from the pedal box to the rear edge of the rear most seat mount. They have the correct stampings and drainage holes. These are best for folks intending to restore their Z to original specs, vs those who just want to weld in metal to replace rusty metal. They are heavy guage steel. Do not forget to order new plugs for the drain holes. Retractable Lap and Shoulder Belt;title=retractable-lap-and-shoulder-belt&amp;cat=22 Sat, 07 Feb 2009 23:28:49 +0000 <a href=";title=retractable-lap-and-shoulder-belt&amp;cat=22"><img title="SeatBelt.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="SeatBelt.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: ConchZ<br /><br />Description: Until 1973, the 240Z only had lap belts. Safety conscious buyers might select the 1973 240Z as a restoration candidate because it came with shoulder AND lap belts. The problem with the 73's belts is that the shoulder belt is designed to be optional. It was probably uncool to be seen wearing it. This optionality was achieved at the cost of making you clip the shoulder belt onto the lap belt and then plug them into the receptacle. The resulting difficulty discourages the use of the shoulder belt. These Retro Belts are designed as a one piece, easy to use system. They bolt right into the factory location on the 73, while some drilling is necessary on the earlier models. Some peculiarities are that the latching mechanism features a flip style release similar to that on an aircraft, as opposed to the original's button release. The receptacle end is also similar to an aircraft, in that its simply a belt with a latch on it. The original seat belt receptacles were on a stalk that sticks up between the seat and the transmission tunnel. The Retro Belts receptacle will fall down between the seats, or get lost behind the seats, just like an airliner seat belt. OEM Walnut Shift Knob;title=oem-walnut-shift-knob&amp;cat=22 Sat, 07 Feb 2009 21:29:50 +0000 <a href=";title=oem-walnut-shift-knob&amp;cat=22"><img title="Shift_Knob.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="Shift_Knob.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: ConchZ<br /><br />Description: I couldn't find this on their website, but they have it if you call. I paid $50.82. Its an OEM part. They have similar walnut shift knobs on their website, but they are not OEM. My preference was OEM. Engine Inspection Light;title=engine-inspection-light&amp;cat=22 Sat, 07 Feb 2009 21:17:38 +0000 <a href=";title=engine-inspection-light&amp;cat=22"><img title="Inspection_Light.JPG" border="0" src="" alt="Inspection_Light.JPG" /></a><br /><br />by: ConchZ<br /><br />Description: I was expecting the part to be silver and aftermarket, especially given its $26.31 price. It turned out to be genuine Nissan and cadmium in color. Nice part. E-2910;title=e-2910&amp;cat=9 Sat, 06 Sep 2008 00:53:55 +0000 <a href=";title=e-2910&amp;cat=9"><img title="AIR_FILTER.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="AIR_FILTER.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: JonnyRock<br /><br />Description: For anyone who hasn't used a K&amp;N product before, let me start right off by telling you they make great stuff. I run them in all my vehicles, and will recommend them to anyone. The E-2910 is no different. It's a stock replacement filter, that goes on just like your old one comes off. I've had it on for a month now, and have nothing to report so far. But I do look forward to only having to clean it in the future rather than buying another one. All K&amp;N filters carry a million-mile-warranty, so you just clean them with oil instead of replacing 'em. The one knock against it is that it doesn't use a metal cage, instead just the paper filter and rubber gasket. The cage on the stock filter allows it to securely attach to small clips inside the air cleaner box. &lt;A HREF=&quot;;&gt;K&amp;N FilterCharger for 1970 240Z&lt;/A&gt; *PLH* Parking light relay upgrade harness;title=-2aplh-2aparking-light-relay-upgrade-harness&amp;cat=7 Fri, 30 May 2008 06:22:50 +0000 <a href=";title=-2aplh-2aparking-light-relay-upgrade-harness&amp;cat=7"><img title="Parking_light_upgrade_harness_1000.JPG" border="0" src="" alt="Parking_light_upgrade_harness_1000.JPG" /></a><br /><br />by: Zs-ondabrain<br /><br />Description: The PLH is a relay upgrade for all 240Z's, 260Z's and early 280Z's. It's a Plug &amp; Play harness that requires NO cutting, drilling or damage to the existing system. The PLH reduces the amperage that normally flows thru the fusebox and combo switch by over 98%. Normally, the un-relayed system has too much resistance, that resistance is converted to heat, which melts fuses, over heats wires and destroys the contacts in the combo switch. The PLH will also increase the power to the Dash lights, side markers and front &amp; rear running lights. The PLH is ONLY $45 and it.... 1) reduces amperage thru the parking light circuit by over 98%. 2) stops the destructive melting of wires, connectors and the fusebox and charring of contacts in the combo switch. 3) Increases the voltage to the dash lights, sidemarkers and running lights, which will make them brighter and make your Z easier to see by other drivers, which makes this upgrade a &quot;Safety Upgrade&quot; 4) The decrease in amperage thru the parking light circuit through the fusebox, will increase the voltage to the brake lights and turn signals. Basically, if the amperage used by the parking light circuit in the fuse box is no longer present, the power can now be used by circuits that severely need it. Radiator Shroud (Fiberglass 70-73);title=radiator-shroud-fiberglass-70-73&amp;cat=8 Thu, 29 May 2008 19:22:26 +0000 <a href=";title=radiator-shroud-fiberglass-70-73&amp;cat=8"><img title="RadShroud.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="RadShroud.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: JonnyRock<br /><br />Description: From Product website: &quot;Light Fiberglass reproduction of the heavy, factory-optional, metal shroud. Helps eliminate the overheating &quot;in traffic&quot; problems common to the 240Z's. &quot; BRE Style Front Spoiler;title=bre-style-front-spoiler&amp;cat=5 Thu, 29 May 2008 19:19:35 +0000 <a href=";title=bre-style-front-spoiler&amp;cat=5"><img title="432front.JPG" border="0" src="" alt="432front.JPG" /></a><br /><br />by: Arne<br /><br />Description: Fiberglass BRE Style spoiler with brake cooling ducts. (Also known as a 'Spook'.) Made from the original BRE molds. Weight is 4 lbs. Twice Pipes Exhaust (70-78);title=twice-pipes-exhaust-70-78&amp;cat=21 Thu, 29 May 2008 19:18:38 +0000 <a href=";title=twice-pipes-exhaust-70-78&amp;cat=21"><img title="TwicePipes.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="TwicePipes.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: JonnyRock<br /><br />Description: From Product website: &quot;Twice Pipes were the first successful aftermarket exhaust system for the 240Z. It's designed with twin pipes (from the head pipe back) that terminate with two glass-pack mufflers, with chrome tips. The kit requires no welding, and includes all parts necessary for installation. If you're looking for more power, or doing an original &quot;performance restoration&quot;, this is the system you want. &quot; 3-into-2 Headers (70-89);title=3-into-2-headers-70-89&amp;cat=21 Thu, 29 May 2008 19:14:30 +0000 <a href=";title=3-into-2-headers-70-89&amp;cat=21"><img title="3into2.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="3into2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: JonnyRock<br /><br />Description: From Product website: &quot;These outstanding headers are built especially for Motorsport to our strict specifications. The thick exhaust flange is flat machined to promote a consistent seal. It also prevents warping and eliminates the need for installation spacers. Exhaust ports have high-quality welds to ensure leak-free performance. Each design will bolt up directly to stock exhaust components, including catalytic converters, or our Motorsport Turbo or Twice Pipes systems. All appropriate smog fittings are provided on those headers labeled &quot;with smog&quot;, and special installation gaskets are included (do not use original equipment type exhaust gaskets with headers). Headers may not be legal in some areas.&quot; Gold Technalon Car Cover;title=gold-technalon-car-cover&amp;cat=11 Thu, 29 May 2008 19:08:03 +0000 <a href=";title=gold-technalon-car-cover&amp;cat=11"><img title="PhonePic059.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="PhonePic059.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: JonnyRock<br /><br />Description: From the Product website: &quot;The most rain resistant &quot;breathable&quot; car cover available, made from EVOLUTION 4 fabric from Kimberly-Clark. A high-tech, multi-layered material, Gold Technalon is lightweight, remains pliable in all weather conditions, and won't smell, rot, or mildew. The outside and inside layers are made of long fibers which make the fabric tough, but very soft and non-abrasive. The middle layer is made of shorter fibers that catch water but allow air to circulate. You simply can't buy better protection!&quot; 240Z Sidemarker Conversion Plugs - SCP;title=240z-sidemarker-conversion-plugsscp&amp;cat=7 Sun, 25 Nov 2007 19:36:38 +0000 <a href=";title=240z-sidemarker-conversion-plugsscp&amp;cat=7"><img title="DSC01870.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="DSC01870.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Arne<br /><br />Description: As before with the ZX alternator adapter, Dave Irwin and Arne have come up with a new wiring product for 240Zs. This one is a safety and visibility improvement. It is - as was the alternator plug before it - simple, affordable, and 100% reversible. The addition of a pair of these adapters will convert a 240Z's front sidemarkers into dual function lights. Once installed, the markers will flash in sync with the signals if the parking lights are off, and opposite if the parking lights are on. Having the front markers flash really increases the visibility of your turn signals. Even though the turn signals on a 240Z wrap around the corner of the car, they are very low to the ground, even on stock height cars like mine. The flashing sidemarkers are much more visible. Bullet II Chrome Mirrors;title=bullet-ii-chrome-mirrors&amp;cat=22 Tue, 03 Jul 2007 17:50:57 +0000 <a href=";title=bullet-ii-chrome-mirrors&amp;cat=22"><img title="mirror1.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="mirror1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Mike<br /><br />Description: Chrome bullet_II mirrors from Motorsport Auto. Part number 50-1177. (Headlight Relay Upgrade Harness) HLH;title=headlight-relay-upgrade-harness-hlh&amp;cat=7 Tue, 28 Mar 2006 07:30:09 +0000 <a href=";title=headlight-relay-upgrade-harness-hlh&amp;cat=7"><img title="harness_with_ID_labels.JPG" border="0" src="" alt="harness_with_ID_labels.JPG" /></a><br /><br />by: Zs-ondabrain<br /><br />Description: The headlight relay upgrade harness (HLH) was designed for the late 69' to 73 240Z only. It increases the voltage to the headlights by using better, newer power wires and relays. The HLH gives the headlights the voltage they were built for. It is a fused plug and play unit harness that only requires the owner to mount the relay pack, (using stock holes) connect the power wire to the batteries positive post, disconnect both headlights at the stock harness and connect the HLH harness into those plugs. 2 ground wires must be mounted to the frame using stock lower vallance bolts and it's ready for use. The headlight relay upgrade harness will...... 1) reduce the current flowing through the fusebox, headlight combo switch, and 33+ year old wiring by over 97%. 2) the stock units listed above will no longer over-heat, blow fuses or become weakend by too much amperage going through them. 3) the HLH is easily removable when the OEM appearance of the vehicle must be made to look stock again (ie: car shows, judging, selling) 4) There is no longer a need for (2) 10amp fuses for the headlights in the fusebox. The HLH only requires you to have (1) 3amp fuse (right headlight fuse-second down on the right of the fusebox) 5) the use of the HLH also gives the owner the ability to upgrade his/her stock lights to a higher power H4 light. 6) The HLH even has a resale value if the owner decides to sell the car or upgrade to True H.I.D lights (which have their own power source and harness). 240Z alternator upgrade adapter;title=240z-alternator-upgrade-adapter&amp;cat=7 Tue, 28 Mar 2006 02:12:52 +0000 <a href=";title=240z-alternator-upgrade-adapter&amp;cat=7"><img title="DSC00633.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="DSC00633.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Arne<br /><br />Description: The problem: The '70-73 Datsun 240Z was originally equipped with a 40-45 amp alternator and a mechanical points-type external voltage regulator. This was sufficient in the early '70s, but just barely. Today, a 240Z used as a driver will probably have electronic ignition, halogen headlights, and a lot more stereo than came with the car. Additionally, the original voltage regulator is (by today's standards) crude, unable to deliver a stable output, and less reliable than today's drivers expect. Obviously, the original charging system just won't cut it for many 240Z owners. Since Nissan used the same engine design all the way through 1983, there are more modern parts available that will simply bolt right in the early Zs. In particular, the alternators from the '81-83 280ZX models are especially suitable. They are a direct bolt on, no changes to mounting points or the pulley is needed. The turbo models came with a 70 amp alternator (up to 75% increase) and the non-turbos with a 60 amp unit (up to 50% increase). These alternators also come with an internal, solid-state voltage regulator. They address both failings of the stock system in one unit. The process is simple, and works for any early Z - '70-73 240Z, '74 260Z (both early and late), and '75-77 280Z. You simply remove the stock alternator and voltage regulator and bolt a '81-83 280ZX alternator in its place. BUT - the external regulator is gone, but the wiring to it remains. So you also have to make a couple of small jumper wires to complete the circuit. Simple and easy to do. 260 and 280Z owners do it all the time. The mod is less common for the 240Zs though, because the 240Z wiring is a bit different. If you do everything the same as you would on a 280Z, it all works fine - until you try to switch off the ignition. Then you'll find that the car will not shut off with the key, you have to pull the power supply to the coil. Not very convenient, to say the least. There is a fix for this, you have to buy a small diode and solder it in series in one of the two jumper wires. And what I've heard from people is that the proper diode can be hard to find in some towns, soldering them in is tricky (diodes can be ruined by too much heat), and overall, some people are just not comfortable with doing electrical stuff. And that's where the adapter pictured above comes in. Conceived by Arne and engineered and built by Dave, it is small, weather-resistant, and simply plugs into the wiring harness in place of the original voltage regulator. The diode is pre-installed and self-contained. Bolt on the ZX alternator, plug this adapter in, and you're done. If you can replace your alternator, you can complete this upgrade. Best, because no wiring on the car is changed at all, this upgrade is totally reversible! Planning to show your Z? Want it to be stock for the concours? You can have the original alternator and regulator installed and working (as well as it ever did) in 15 minutes, maybe less if you're good. Super Turbo Muffler;title=super-turbo-muffler&amp;cat=21 Sun, 19 Mar 2006 01:03:22 +0000 <a href=";title=super-turbo-muffler&amp;cat=21"><img title="super_turbo_muffler.gif" border="0" src="" alt="super_turbo_muffler.gif" /></a><br /><br />by: tanny<br /><br />Description: I just installed a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler on my 73 Z with triple webers, 3.90 rear end, and headers(no resonator). The exhaust pipe is 2 and 1/2 inches. The muffler has 2 and 1/2 inch center inlet and 2 and 1/2 inch offset outlet. The muffler has a nice low rumble at idle, with a kind of snappy higher pitch above 3000 rpm. There is a somewhat annoying drone while cruising steadily at about 2500 rpms. I perceived no increase in power. I purchased this at for $34.95. The cruiseing rpm noise is disturbing and I try to not travel at that speed to avoid the drone. I'm not sure I would purchase this muffler again. Victor. Fiberglass Air Dam;title=fiberglass-air-dam&amp;cat=5 Sun, 19 Mar 2006 00:38:29 +0000 <a href=";title=fiberglass-air-dam&amp;cat=5"><img title="msa_fiberglass_airdam.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="msa_fiberglass_airdam.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Mike<br /><br />Description: [Article written by anonymous user from old system. If this is your article, please notify admin and we will give you credit.] About two weeks ago I bought an air dam from Motor Sport Auto. Two reasons for this, first I felt that my 240 was getting a bit light under the nose at speeds over 90 and two, I have seen many 240's with nice looking front spoilers and I wanted one for myself. There are two materials in which MSA deals with for the body parts they sell: urethane and fiberglass. The one I chose is fiberglass. It is quite strong with a thick white jell coat on the outside. Overall quality of the delivered product was good in my opinion for a relatively cheap body part. One thing should be made clear though, inexpensive body parts like the ones MSA sell will require a bit of work to make them fit just right. When i say inexspensive what i mean is that there are really two types of body kits. Body parts and body pieces ready for paint. When a company advertises they have kits ready for paint it means they have taken extream pains to ensure that everything is perfect ( or atleast they should have). These kits are very expensive often costing in the thousands. A full body package or Aero kit from MSA will run about $500 - 600. Not bad really. Before I even tried to install the air dam I bought a video from ZTherepy called 'Fiberglass Installtion'. In this video, Scott installs a complete MSA body kit. It is very thorough and without it I would of had to go and pay a pro to do the work. I spent about $50 on supplies which included fiberglass matt, resin and hardener, fiberglass filler and glazing compound. EZ grips from Craftsman will be a great help also to hold up the spoiler for inspection before you commit yourself to laying your glue and glass. I had to grind out about a quarter inch on one side of the peice and a half inch on ther other before i was satisfied that it would fit with no huge gaps. Of course there were small gaps but i was confident that i could fill those in with body filler and then lay in a taper so that the piece would appear seemless. I marked off several spots where I intended to counter sink bolts into the fiberglass and through the body of the car. This would ensure a very permenent installation along with filler and fiberglass matt. All in all, prep time for this job was about two hours and installation was about twenty minutes. Once you lay the filler that will bond the part to your car you have to be quick. Right before I tightend my bolts up I threw in some fiberglass goo that i had made up. This consisted of fiberglass matt that i had pulled apart, resin and hardener. I stuffed this in, cranked down on all the bolts and let it ooz out. I cleaned that mess up with paint thinner. The goo dries very hard and is stronger than any glue or apoxy I have ever seen. I let that all sit for 24 hours. The next day I set about filling in remaining gaps and then let that dry. Once this was done, it was time to sand, smooth and lay in a little glazing compund to achive the seemless look I wanted. I am still messing with the sanding and smoothing, but only because it was my first time and I don't want some Z nut looking at it and saying &quot; put that on your self did ya &quot;. But that's just me. Overall it's a good quality part that i think can take a bit of abuse. Back to Black;title=back-to-black&amp;cat=20 Sun, 19 Mar 2006 00:13:29 +0000 <a href=";title=back-to-black&amp;cat=20"><img title="back_to_black_huge.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="back_to_black_huge.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Mike<br /><br />Description: [Article transferred from old system. Author unknown. If this is your article, please notify webmaster] A week or so ago I inquired to the list about the good stuff for the rubber bumper strips on my 240. I just bought a new-used bumper for the car. Here's what I did. Took a drive up to Pupboys. (not my favorite parts store but they have lots of chemicals) Looked for &quot;Black Again&quot;, didn't see it. They had &quot;Black Magic&quot; and &quot;Mothers Back to Black&quot;. After reading the directions for both, I decided to try Back to Black. The directions say to massage the product into the rubber with a soft cloth. Since the rubber on my bumpers was a little oxidized I worked it in with OO steel wool, then followed up with the soft cloth. The stuff is milky white out of the bottle and was sticky black when I wiped it off. Worked real sweet, I'm happy with the result, leaves a new-like black rubber sheen. I'm not endorsing the product, just letting you know what worked for me. It's so nice to finally get a new bumper on and remove that old rusted eyesore. Now I'll have to get to all of those sidemarker gaskets. I suppose I should have tried it on some really crappy - old rubber to give it a serious test. Maybe later. Datsun Z Fairlady to 280z;title=datsun-z-fairlady-to-280z&amp;cat=19 Sun, 19 Mar 2006 00:11:00 +0000 <a href=";title=datsun-z-fairlady-to-280z&amp;cat=19"><img title="fairlady_to_280z.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="fairlady_to_280z.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: george<br /><br />Description: For anyone who's interested in the history of Z Cars this is a great read. Covering the Fairlady Z until the 280Z. Here is an extract, &quot; The Fairlady Z (240Z) was the car that not only put Nissan (Datsun) in Division One of the automotive manufacturer's league, but Japan as a whole. It paved the way for a new breed of Japanese cars to be successful outside their home market, a development which would, almost overnight, rewrite the history of the motor industry.&quot; The book is full of photographs, mostly black and white however the colour one's are of good quality and are an essential element to anyone seeking originality in their Z. There are 8 chapters (160 pages) 1. The Datsun story - History of the making of Datsun. 2. The Fairlady - history, her birth, competition. 3. Birth of the Z - Goertz, thinking that went ahead of the new model, Launch of the new model. 4.The First Generation - Z's in the US, UK, Japan, production differences and changes. 5.The works Rally cars - history on the Z's success at the Safari Rally etc.. 6. The 260Z and 280Z - info on its arrival 7. Z in racing - US, Europe racing scene 8. Buying and restoring - looks at body, engine, suspension and steering. I found this book very interesting and is a must for anyone who wants to learn all about the history of the car. It definatly gets my thumps up. Chapter 8 - Buying and restoring, does not go into any great detail and skimms over most things or generalises. Apart from that a very interesting, well researched read! Datsun 240Z &amp; 260Z Gold Portfolio 1970-1978;title=datsun-240z26amp-3b-260z-gold-portfolio-1970-1978&amp;cat=19 Sun, 19 Mar 2006 00:03:49 +0000 <a href=";title=datsun-240z26amp-3b-260z-gold-portfolio-1970-1978&amp;cat=19"><img title="1855203952.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="1855203952.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: george<br /><br />Description: Written by R.M Clarke, The Gold Portfolio is a compilation of Auto magazine articles from the 1970's as well as a few classic car magazines of the 1990's. The articles are by well known magazines from the UK and the US, such as: Autocar, Road &amp; track, Car &amp; Driver etc.. Whats great about this compilation is that you get 1st hand experience from the actual testers who first drove these cars and wrote the articles at that time (from 1970-1977). If you want to discover what they thought through their in-depth analysis this is a must. The 240's and 260's are compared with other cars available at that time and guess which cars win every time!!! Not only is this a great collection of accolades it is also fairly unbiased due to the number of magazine sources R.M. Clarke has included. Video of the Nissan Z;title=video-of-the-nissan-z&amp;cat=19 Sat, 18 Mar 2006 23:58:22 +0000 <a href=";title=video-of-the-nissan-z&amp;cat=19"><img title="thcdvd-rgenb.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="thcdvd-rgenb.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Mike<br /><br />Description: [This article transferred from old system. Original author unknown. If this is yours, please notify admin] This is something every true Z-car lover should have. It give a little history of the rebuilding of post war Japan and the rise of the Nissan Motor Company. Any true afficianado of the Z car knows the history of Yataka Katayama and his un-official title as the &quot;Father of the Z-car&quot; it gives you the chance to see him and hear him tell the story of his &quot;banishment&quot; by Nissan to the United States. In the video you will see many beautiful Z cars from 240's to the 300zx's and many other cars that the Z stole the limelight from when it was brought to the US. You will also watch interviews with Bob Sharp and see some great vintage footage of John Morton, Paul Newman in their race cars including some in-car video. This would be a great addition to anyones Z-car collection, you can look at the pictures and read the books but there is something special about hearing the people who were involved tell it in their own words. Not only was the Z-car one of the 10 best cars during it's production run it was also voted one of the 10 cars that most influenced the automotive market. History Channel's Description: In the late 1960s, Americans regarded the Japanese auto industry as something of a joke - the manufacturer of tiny, strange looking vehicles that had limited appeal to any but the most frugal consumer. That all changed with the introduction of the 240 Z in 1970. Radical, sleek, fast and sexy, the Z proved the Japanese industry could build something other than an economy car. A true sports car, the Z kept all the good traits that the Japanese cars of the day were known for and added speed and style. It was a winning combination, and it paved the way for the boom in Japanese car sales to come. From the daring decision to target the American market to the brilliant design and the long series of Zs that followed, this is the ultimate look at one of the most significant autos of all time. 240Z 1:18 Diecast Models;title=240z-1-3a18-diecast-models&amp;cat=17 Sat, 18 Mar 2006 23:48:20 +0000 Klasse All-In-One;title=klasse-all-in-one&amp;cat=20 Sat, 18 Mar 2006 23:36:39 +0000 <a href=";title=klasse-all-in-one&amp;cat=20"><img title="klasse1.jpg" border="0" src="" alt="klasse1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Mike<br /><br />Description: [Transferred from our old Review area - Original poster unknown] I used Klasse All-In-One and High Gloss Sealant Glaze for the first time this weekend and I was amazed. This stuff was really easy to use and my 300z's red paint never looked better. I looked around at local places but I could only find it on-line. I bought it from It was delivered in a timely manner. The All-In-One wax is like a polish and wax all in one application. It went on and buffed off with little effort. I followed it with Sealant Glaze and man it was incredible. I had been using Meguiars and really liked it but Klasse blows it away.