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jonathanrussell

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Everything posted by jonathanrussell

  1. Tie rod wiggle

    I want to make sure I am following what you are describing. Are you saying that while you are turning the outer tie rod round and round threading it onto the inner tie rod threads, the outer rod has play, seems like a mismatch in thread size? If so, here are my thoughts. If not, please clarify. I haven't seen this before but I would bet that your inner tie rods are original and OEM (not after market). Therefore I would trust that the original inner tie rod threaded shaft is as it should be. That means that your new outer tie rod may be aftermarket and not as precise as it could be. What happens if you re-install the old outer tie rod? Does it wiggle around? If you can narrow to the new outer tie rod, you may just need to exchange for another tie rod. The key thing with the original inner tie rods is whether the ball joint is worn and loose. A quick test- when you extend the threaded shaft, does it stay in place or flop down (without the outer installed)? The FSM has a more exact method for testing if I recall correctly. Finding new original Nissan inner tie rods is next to impossible. A company named Really Right Parts makes an aftermarket replacement. I have a set but have never installed so I can't comment on quality yet. Here is a link to a site that sells the part. Right Inner Tie Rod The right side is the only one available. So, if you ever need a left side, you use a right side outer tie rod. As long as the inner tie rod checks out in terms of wear, I would try to keep it. Apologies if I have misunderstood your post.
  2. 1972 Float Adjustment ...

    With respect, I don't see how setting the float fuel level at anywhere near the top of the nozzle top at 2.5 turns would ever work. Fuel would overflow in my opinion. The 10 turn method is what I use. I don't remember where I found the 10 turn method that I use successfully but here is an excerpt that set me on the right path to getting my floats set prior to fine tuning my carbs. After you set the floats so that the fuel level is at the top of the nozzle at 10 turns, then you put the domes and pistons and needles back together, return the mixture setting to 2.5 turns down, and continue on with all of the fine tuning steps we all know and love. So, here is a copy / paste of the excerpt. I hope this helps. HOWEVER: Even though adjusting the floatbowl levels to 23mm down is a factory setting, it doesn't guarantee that the fuel levels in the carbs are the same. TIP: We did some measuring with a straightedge and found that on my 4-screw SUs a 23mm fuel level in the float bowl corresponds to exactly 1 centimeter (10 millimeters) below the fuel nozzle "ledge" in the carb. But how do you see to measure fuel 1 centimeter down inside the fuel nozzle? See below. Remove the dome and main piston from each carb so you can look down the tip of both fuel nozzles. Screw each mixture nut exactly 10 turns down from fully up. Each full turn drops the nozzle tip 1 mm, so 10 turns puts the tip of the fuel nozzle 10 mm (1cm) down....which happens to be the 23mm float bowl level. Then look down the tip of each fuel nozzle and adjust each float to set the gas level at the fuel nozzle tip. We ended up taking 9 turns down and set the fuel at the meniscus of the tip. Then when I went to 10 turns the fuel was exactly at the tip. A bit of a juggling act but after a few minutes you will get the hang of it. When you get them to match it's a great feeling. NOTE #1: If your mixture nut won't go down more than a few turns, it's because the factory "stopper" next to the nut is still in place. Unless originality is a concern, you can permenantly remove both stoppers from the bottom of the carb. NOTE#2: if the fuel level is too high and overflows the nozzle tip, you will need to drain each float bowl a bit before starting again. The result was a lower, more solid idle and less choke needed at startup. I get no stumbling off idle and part-throttle acceleration is smoother, acceleration more powerful. Cruising on the interstate requires a lighter touch on the accelerator. Interesting.
  3. 1972 Float Adjustment ...

    Many of the methods discussed will get a car running fairly well but in my opinion, the 10 turn method described in multiple posts by @DaveR is your best path to success. There are other factors too, getting the needle aligned, getting the pistons dropping with the right amount of dampening fluid, synchronizing, reading plugs or colortune, etc, etc. But, in my experience there is no better way to get the floats adjusted right than the way DaveR explained....quite well. It is still tedious. You have to turn over the engine, watch the top of the nozzle hole at 10 turns down, pull the float caps, bend and shape the tabs....over and over. The difference though in the 10 turn method and the methods that require you to measure the float height in relation to the float lid or the distance the fuel settles in a clear tube (of which there are differing opinions on what the real measurement is) is accuracy. Once you get the fuel level to settle at the top (but not over) of the nozzle hole at 10 turns down, you are perfect. My 2 cents.... J
  4. Float level advice, please.

    Others can fill in the gaps if I get details wrong but every year Datsun / Nissan published a Technical Service Bulletin book for dealership service departments. Each book contains multiple bulletins or instructions on various topics where the factory service manual needed correction or elaboration or explanation based on new knowledge once models were out and being driven. Each yearly book covers all Datsun / Nissan models....in other words is not exclusive to the zcar models. Each book may contain bulletins pertaining to current or recent prior model years. So, the 1974 TSB book may have bulletins that pertain to 240z cars. You can find the TSB books from time to time on Ebay. I have collected pretty much all of them through about 1984. I find them to be really informative. The TSB I cited above is from the 1973 book. For 240z owners, if I were to only own one TSB book it would be the 1973 book. Here is an example of a TSB book on ebay. 1978 TSB book Regarding adjusting floats....personally I think it is the most important and tedious step in getting the carbs working right. Bending the little tabs one way and then the other in an effort to get the float set just right is insanely frustrating but worth the effort. My personal preference for setting the floats is to remove the bowls, turn down the mixture screws 10 turns, and set the fuel level so that the convex meniscus fuel bubble sits perfectly even with the top of the nozzle. Once you get this accomplished, in my experience, you are able to freely adjust the mixture down to 2.5 turns and then detail adjust using Color Tune or similar. This technique has been documented multiple times on this site and others, fyi.
  5. axle shaft u-joint replacement fail

    I recently found out that they do bend with too much hydraulic press force. I just rebuilt a set of half shafts and found bent ears also. The result is abnormally tight c-clip installation and a u-joint that doesn't move freely. I am not sure whether I bent them or a prior owner. They had very thin c-clips and aftermarket u-joints so maybe the prior owner. I think it happens during removal of the old u-joints when seized...especially if a socket being used to press moves off of the joint and onto the ear. Anyway, I have found that installation of the new joint is best done with a vice instead of a press. I used a dremel wire wheel attachment to clean the inside surface of the ear, greased lightly, and the u-joint caps press right in with a vice. I did damage one u-joint by allowing one of the needle bearings to dislodge and bend. Luckily I had a spare new joint.
  6. Taillight panel paint

    I think it is Obvious....
  7. brake proportioning valve

    Hi Charles. Yes, the proportioning valve works perfectly.
  8. 1978 280 WIW

    My first car in 1983 was a silver 78 280z....raised white letters and everything. Loved that car.
  9. 1978 280 WIW

    Price and value are very personal things I think. For me, if I wanted a 78 280z and the car is TRULY as you describe, and you want the car, I would try to keep it off the market and come to a fair price for you and the seller. The key here is, does the condition align with the words you use in your description? Does it really have 40k miles? Lots of little signs will tell you whether it does or not, even absent of records. What is the condition of the engine compartment and undercarriage? Do you see enough evidence of cad plating to make the 40k story reasonable? Are original hoses and plug wires present? Is the interior original and in the condition it should be at 40k miles? As Site says, are the pedals worn? Is door weatherstripping still in really good shape? No doubt, all of these won't be present in any 40 year old car but some combination of them can start to tell you whether the 40k story makes sense or not. Continuing on with condition...is the car truly rust free? Look everywhere- under battery, under master cylinder, frame rails, floors, rocker panels, and hatch deck corners are all common rust areas. Because this car has molded carpet in the floors I doubt the owner will let you remove the carpet to look for floor rust. Still, look closely at the floors, floor plugs and carpet. Any evidence of prolonged moisture on the carpet? Any evidence of rust around floor plugs and seams? Has the car ever been wrecked and repaired? Go over the body thoroughly. Do panels line up? Look closely at the front engine area frame rails. Are there any ripples where the car has been hit and fixed? If the owner will let you, remove the rear carpet and side plastic panels. This will show whether the rear quarter panels have been repaired and whether the rear has been hit. Have sections of the original paint been repainted? Is the roof dented? Since the car hasn't been running in 15 years, it is going to be hard to determine how well it runs, whether or not the transmission shifts smoothly, etc. For me, the thing I would really want to know is what the compression numbers look like. If the owner is willing to let you agree on a price IF the compression numbers look good then I wouldn't hesitate to oil the cylinders a bit (through the plugs), let it sit a few days, manually turn the engine, change the oil, and then try to start it. If it ran 15 years ago, it may very well start. If you can do this then do a compression test and report back. This forum has multiple posts describing how to do a compression test. There are also multiple posts on waking up a car that has been sitting. So, if everything checks out regarding condition and compression, just know that you will have a decent amount of mechanical refreshing work to do. To me, this kind of work is fun. Body work, however, not so much. - You will need to rebuild the brakes (hydraulics and everything) - Basic tune-up stuff - Replace fluids and oil (engine, diff, trans, coolant), - Get cooling system in shape which will probably involve some hoses, cleaning out the radiator, water pump possibly, etc. - Tires. - You will almost certainly need to rebuild the clutch hydraulics (master, slave, clutch hose). As you get the car driving you will know whether the clutch / pressure plate need to be replaced. - Most likely you will need to refresh the suspension. Some or all of the following are possible- bushings, tie rods, ball joints, repack wheel bearings, strut inserts, etc. I would think of this as phase 2 after you get the car running and brakes refreshed. Back to value. So, for me, even though the car has been sitting 15 years and even though the car will need the kind of refresh work I describe above, if the car is in the condition you describe above, it is exactly the kind of car you want to stumble on if you are interested in a 280z. So, if all of this is true and you can start it even for a few minutes and you can verify compression numbers, I think any amount that you can pay less than 10K is a deal. If it was as described and running and sorted and not needing the things I mention to refresh, It is probably worth 15k or so....maybe more for the right buyer. As I said though, value is a personal thing. I place significant value on original paint cars. Even if you don't want to keep the original paint (though my bias is to try very hard to keep it), there is nothing like an original paint car to reveal to you exactly what is going on with the body, prior wreck damage, and rust. I hope this helps. Best of luck.
  10. Looking for rubber grommets

    240z rubber parts has them. The link below shows out of stock but anytime I email them they make whatever is out of stock fairly quickly. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423842
  11. Rear brake conversion

    Lots of options for doing either or both but....I am curious what are you trying to achieve. How do you use your car? What about the stock brake performance do you want to improve? My opinion...for a street car, even one that you drive in a really spirited way, totally rebuilt stock brakes with Porterfield or Hawk pads (and probably other brands too) work really well. And, along with pads, another way to improve stock brakes would be tires. I do track days with my MX-5 and braking is amazing. If I were to do track days with one of my zcars, I would probably start with stock brakes, track pads, and Castrol SPF brake fluid....and track appropriate tires. I bet I would need to improve my driving before I found myself needing better calipers, converting rear drums to disk, etc. Anyway...I don't mean to sound like I am discouraging upgrading. I have thought of doing it too....but usually remind myself how well the stock brakes work and then find something else to focus on. Just curious about your goals and thought process.
  12. Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

    Incredible car. Looking forward to watching your progress. Great work so far.
  13. Dished pistons for NA?

    Dave is a really smart guy and well respected but....given your situation I would encourage you to keep it simple and find the right pistons. They are out there on some shelf somewhere. And, honestly your best bet might be to take your time with this engine build and find a complete engine that is for sale but that was running recently. Folks do engine swaps in 280zs all the time. Craigslist typically has full engines for sale all the time. Here is a 75 L28 for sale. Not saying $900 is the right price but usually folks take less than what they advertise. Point is....engines are out there. And, if this is really a 75 L28 engine then it has a pretty nice N42 square port exhaust head. I bet in California Craigslist has lots of options. 75 L28
  14. Dished pistons for NA?

    Are you sure that Northern Auto doesn't have the ITM ry6134-20 in stock? ITM ry6134-20
  15. Dished pistons for NA?

    P79 head originally came with flat top pistons and was used for NA ZX cars. I personally would never build a P79 head with anything but flat top pistons. And, most folks who build the P79 head follow a process where they shave the head far more than you have. Guy can speak to this more.... @Diseazd
  16. Me & My Z - 45th Anniversary

    Really enjoyed your story about owning your 240z. Thanks for sharing. Your story caused me to think about some things. My dad bought his 72 240z in 73, slightly used, and paid as much as a new one. He put 190,000 miles on that car driving all over the southeast for his job. I drove a 280z during high school in the early 80s and put probably 30,000 miles on that car. My point is that reading your story and thinking about my dad's ownership makes me want to drive a 240z every day. Most of us, yes there are some exceptions, will never know what it is like to put that many miles on one of these cars and really experience all there is to know about the car. I find myself paranoid about letting it get wet. My dad drove his in the rain all the time. Funny.... Anyway, enjoyed the story. Take care.
  17. Hardway's Red Rocket 1972 240z Build Thread

    Looks like great fun. How is the rust situation?
  18. N42 Head on Ebay

    N42 heads are pretty hard to find. This one looks like a nice one to rebuild. N42 Head on Ebay
  19. Pads and Booster

    I personally don't see how the stick on shims would work or how they would be different from having no shim. I have found that something similar to the stock Nissan shim plus a light, full coating of brake grease / anti-squeal grease on both sides of the shim where contact is made with the pad and the caliper piston works. I have thought about why it works and I have a few theories but none are based on anything that really warrants sharing.
  20. brake proportioning valve

    I rebuilt two proportioning valves this weekend. I used the seal kit from MSA. I paid close attention to the orientation of the seals during disassembly. Both valves had the exact same seals in them and they were identical to the photos above where seal (3) in BR-8 is fluted / grooved on the flat outside edge and dotted on the cupped inside edge. Seal (5) in BR-8 is exactly like the photos above where it is a little thicker than seal (3) and not dotted or fluted / grooved on the outside or inside surface. For clarity, in the case of both seals, the cupped side is oriented to face the middle of the valve. I personally was easily able to match up the MSA seals with the equal (but not identical) original seals. I found disassembly and re-assembly to be fairly quick and easy. I used a small c-clip squeezer (not spreader) (OTC brand, 1120) to squeeze the c-clip and remove from valve. Re-installation is a little more tricky. I use the same c-clip squeezer to squeeze the c-clip and insert it partially into the valve. Then I used a 5/16 deep socket to push / press (gently) the c-clip down until it clicked into position. To be clear, I don't yet know whether the proportioning valve works as I am still rebuilding the brakes on my 240z. I should know in a week or so. The valve from my low mile car was very clean. The valve from the car I am rebuilding the brakes for was very full of dirt and sediment....but not corrosion. So, I feel like I accomplished something....assuming the valve works. And, I enjoy rebuilding little parts. I should also mention that I cleaned up all original seals and, to me, they look new....like they could be reused without concern. Again, I think the key thing I accomplished is cleaning out the valve.
  21. Maxima N47 cylinder head

    I know folks express an interest in the Maxima N47 cylinder head from time to time. Here is one on ebay in case someone is interested. I have too many cylinder heads and two of these. Looks like it has been milled though. Good price though. To be clear, I am not the seller and do not know the seller. MN47 head on Ebay
  22. Maxima N47 cylinder head

    @esmit208 sorry but I do not. Those are pretty hard to find. I have one N42 on my 75 280 and one spare.
  23. To buy or not to buy...that is the question

    Great car and price. When I was a kid my dad had a white / red 72. I love that combination. Wish we still had that car. Congratulations.
  24. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    All looks great. What product did you use to paint the differential black? Thanks..
  25. kia door seal thread

    Vintage Rubber. Fits perfect. Doors close, for me, perfectly. Looks original.
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