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german240

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german240 last won the day on December 5

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About german240

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  1. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    So I decided to not tear the engine down again. NPR states in the piston ring manual:
  2. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    Piston and piston ring gap are totally independent. It all depends on ring material and block material as only the difference in thermal expansion is relevant. That's why I won't find a perfect answer, realised this today
  3. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    The question is: What are correct ring gap specs for this application? It is not a KA24E engine (where the pistons are from), nor a stock L28. NPR (Japan ring manufacturer) lists the following ring gaps: I'm still undecided @madkaw are you sure that the head bolts (got new OEM turbo bolts) are not a yield type?
  4. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    I wouldn't say it's cheap.. All new gaskets, new bolts and a lot of time. My friend had exactly the same ring gaps all around, no variance at all. But you still are right!
  5. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    A friend of mine just checked his piston ring gaps. He got exactly the same rings+pistons, same bore (same engine shop), all gaps were within spec (on the tight side, though). It is very unlikely that my gaps would be any different... However, I might still tear it all down again. Let's see.
  6. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    Bad news. I talked to an experienced engine builder. I told him that I only measured 1 piston ring gap (I seriously don't understand why I did this). He strongly recommended to start over, and that's what I am going to do ..first engine, lesson learnt! I just hope that I won't run into any issues with reusing the head and rod bolts.
  7. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    I left it like it is. Double checked valve-piston clearance (it is >2mm) and piston-head clearance (1.5mm) using a strip of solder. The engine is complete so far, I just have to fit the Zstory race manifold and the fully refurbished SUs. BTW: Some cam grinders like ISKY supply two completely different cam cards. One as reference (advertised), one for actual numbers that can be measured with a degree wheel. I found a similar (advertised) spec cam card, the "workshop specs" come out like my measurements did. @siteunseen I just realized that you uploaded those cam cards. Better pictures will be added next week Just some quick shots. DIstributor shaft alignment..shifted it around many times, hopefully it is right now Header Aaaaand.... Engine before I started working on it This was the Ebay ad..
  8. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    Not all events are advanced. And putting it in hole #3 would advance it even further..or are you kidding I left it like it is and finished the engine. I will upload some more pictures this week.
  9. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    I just calculated all events at 0.05" lift: Intake Duration is 236.00 degrees. Exhaust Duration is 232.00 degrees. Installed Intake Centerline is 107.00 degrees ATDC. Installed Exhaust Centerline is 110.00 degrees BTDC. LSA is 108.5 degrees Overlap is 17.00 degrees.
  10. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    So, I ordered from RockAuto on Sunday. On wednesday (2 days later) it arrived at my door in Germany! Unbelievable. Beck/Arnley timing chain kit, looks great and is all made in Japan. TDC tool Tightening everything accoring to FSM Checking cam timing So I checked everything over and over again.. and the cam is quite different than advertised. I asked Jon from Delta cams, he told me that everything is fine, my measurements are accurate, his cam card only shows calculated numbers. I'm not sure what to do now. So the red numbers are according to the cam sheet. The green numbers are the actual measured ones. Sprocket position 1. Head was shaved by 0.012", head gasket is 0,0787" (so this almost results in a stock cam-crank distance).
  11. Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

    That might be right. However, if high grade bolts have to be zinc plated they get an aftertreatment (baking) plus additives in the plating bath. As long as your plater knows all this you should be fine BTW your detailing looks really awesome!
  12. Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

    I like the look of zinc coated suspension parts. Just keep in mind that there is hydrogen embrittelment, that's why you usually can't by high strenght bolts with zinc coating.
  13. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    Thanks for pointing this out. But I already got the correct base & adjusting plate as well as the cap and rotor @Zed Head You're right! Unbelievable, I got a new email from Cardone tech support: First of all, I think he doesn't get the difference between cam and crank degrees (I asked for it). But the main info is: You can get anything! Now I have to open up my brand new dizzy..I don't like that.
  14. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    No, the numbers stamped on the body don't mean anything. Otherwise there had to be different cardone part numbers. However, I think I was wrong as I ordered a '79 dizzy, too! BTW your linked dizzy from Amazon has the part number 31-619, too. But if it works for your application it should work in mine, too Did you add the plastic collar to the lower end of the dizzy? I think it isn't really needed, is it?
  15. L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    @siteunseen it is the e12-80 dizzy with only the top "T" connector (I posted some pictures on page 3). The intersting thing is , that all ZX dizzys remanufactured by cardone have the same advance curve implemented. It doesn't matter which year you choose, you'll always end up with the same cardone parts number.
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