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Packerz

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About Packerz

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    Western North Carolina
  1. Need help identify missing part

    Thank you for your reply to my posting. I truthfully do not remember this open space originally but I cannot figure out what could have gone there it was over a year before I started this project. I should have taken pictures to refer back to...I never dreamed I wouldn't put this all back together SO much sooner and just put all the nuts, screws and panels/parts in a box marked "interior"🙄 It just seems so odd that this space would have been left open from the factory...but then again, I don't have anything in my "interior box" left over. Still a mystery if it was (what) or never was to begin with and try to ignore... so many mysteries were found , and had to be solved, during this "project". Thank you again for responding!!! Doug
  2. Need help identify missing part

    Hello! I am Nearing completion of a restoration (final phase is interior renewal/replacement of original finishing panels) for my 1977 280. I need help identifying missing part for space "cut out" . This empty space is above drivers side lower finishing panel (above hood release and vent Knob) and below dash. There is a threaded attaching spot in the middle of this open area on the metal behind dash/panel . My car has factory A/C if that matters? I will try to send picture attachment to clarify mystery space🙄 If it would be better to post this question in another forum, please let me know...I'm trying to access a 280Z (1977?) "resident guru" 🙏 Any help...please e-mail me directly at: dbparker54@yahoo.com. This is the final step in a long (Very Long) restoration so I'd like o solve this mystery and call it done🍻 Thank you for any mystery solution! Doug Parker. PackerZ I will send photo from my I phone in separate post...damn technology 😏
  3. Steering column shell

    I am looking for a steering column cover "clamshell" 1977280Z. Specifically, the lower half panel with all molded mounts intact. Mine has broken mounting "towers" that hold the attaching screws to the upper shell mounts. I have an upper shell with intact mountings. Will consider buying the set if no one has just the lower panel and set is reasonably priced. Please contact me directly at: dbparker54@yahoo.com. Thank you! Doug
  4. Dome light wiring

    Thank you, again Zed Head. You confirmed my thought that BR really functions as ground wire to/from switch (es)...Black grounds the switch itself and BR sends ground signal to light terminal? Yes I still have to "chisel" door switches out to verify solid ground and probably solve bulb operation during door open-button release. I still have to ask why BR and door switch affects even the manual lens button operation of bulb. Sincerely not to belabor the point, but doesn't the B (constant body ground) terminal make a direct connection with BR terminal and ground side of bulb holder? Even if the BR wire wasn't connected to its terminal... wouldn't the bulb holder's connection with black terminal work for "push button" operation of an installed bulb with constant 12volts at opposite bulb holder/terminal I gotta tell you how gratifying it is for a Club member to respond in a thoughtful and kind manner. It isn't all the time that a fellow Z actually reads the posted question being asked before flaming post response...that is if any (helpful) response to actual question is even given. The difference is noted and appreciated!
  5. Dome light wiring

    I am trying to understand the wiring functions in the overhead/dome light. I have studied the FSM (Figure BE-23) and the wiring to my light to find out why my light does not work by door contact or manual (lens button). I am trying to use my very basic electrical knowledge and use my voltage tester to determine energized and grounded wires. I clearly test the Blue/white stripe wire as constant 12 volt, battery powered. I also get a functioning ground signal from the black wire. The bulb (even tried several) tests as good. However, I can't get any power across the bulb connections...BW (BE-23 code LW) and Black/red stripe. I know that BR is controlled by door switches, however, my connected, or disconnected, bulb terminal or open/closed doors the BR won't allow power to body ground B allowing bulb to light. Isn't the actual function of the BR wire to create/allow a full grounding at the bulb based on door switch button in/out? To test the door switches, does the BR get any energy to voltage test against B? I see a closed circuit/loop for the BR from the light terminal (with RH and LH split) to each door switch and back with no power to BR...so how would I test each switch? Yes, the LH switch also has a Black and white stripe power and Black ground wires but the switch seems to have two separate circuits for dome light and theft protection and no power shared to BR. Please no flames my confusion but kindly help me to understand switch testing and why BR bulb terminal connection won't close loop allowing LW power to B and allowing light to work manually with door closed. Thank you, for your patience; I'm trying🤔
  6. Ebrake switch

    Yippee and way cool😎 Ya know I would have sworn a black wire was ground... not on a Z anyhow😏. Do you possibly have an aftermarket LED bulb part# suggestion/source to match the dimensions of the current (5amp?) dome light bulb. Can an installed bulb be tested by using just the lens push switch if only the Blue w/white stripe (12volt power) and the Black (yeah black=ground this time) are connected to their terminals inside the light housing? or does the Black w/red stripe (from door switches) also have to be connected to its terminal for any bulb to work at all? Last two electrical questions and end of this thread; I swear! You are great, my friend. Thank you.
  7. Ebrake switch

    Again, thank you! Zed Head, could it be that this black wire, soldered to bottom of the switch, is not a ground wire at all... It might actually be the switch connection to the 12 volt power GY wire. This could explain my male spade black wire and my female plug GY making them the same wire when connected and bringing power to the white plunger button sleeve Then the sleeve is in fact grounded by the switch housing which itself is grounded as part of ebrake assembly bolted to body ground. Do you think maybe I've (finally) got this right? I sure hope so! I really appreciate your excellent feedback and patience with my questions!!! Doug
  8. Ebrake switch

    Alright! The GY wire does energize the switch and your illustration very clearly shows a factory GY lead out from the switch itself. My switch is missing this outgoing wire ...this would identify what my existing GY wire (coming from C6) with a female plug was once connected to. Thank you for this diagram!!! My '77 FSM didn't show clear detail of switch connection, the yours does! One last question, please: could you direct me to an OEM or aftermarket source for a switch with this GY "pigtail"? Zed Head, Thank you again for your help! Doug
  9. Ebrake switch

    Anybody? Doesn't the switch need to be energized someway (wire connection??) so the existing black lead functions as ground?
  10. Seat panels

    Looking for molded plastic panels/covers that cover the S30 first gen Z (280Z) seat hinge assembly. These cover the bolts located on drivers and passenger side hinge assembly for seat back adjustment/rear deck access. They clip on and look like a wide legged cap? They are also found on inner as well as outside-upper two/seat back and lower two for bottom cushion attachment bolts. also looking for: handbrake/parking brake switch (push-in socket with white plunger button and green/yellow stripe spade male lead and black male ground wire.lead from switch. also, black rubber caps that slide over metal rod of seat track adjuster under/front of seat. thank you, Doug. Prefer E contact: dbparker54@yahoo.com
  11. Ebrake switch

    On my 1977280, the emergency/parking brake switch has only one wire. Black w/ male lead from bottom of switch to ground. The FSM shows this B wire from switch to ground yet also a green/yellow stripe wire going toward the switch..does this GY (ignition powered) energize the switch? How does switch energize for the black wire to function as a ground?
  12. Misc 280Z parts

    I am looking for a few parts for my 1977 280. Parts needed:. Lower passenger kick panel (cut out for fuse box cover and hides wiring "highway"),. courtesy lamp assembly for overhead console (need mounting tabs intact! ...would like to find two / one for spare-future use backup), fusible link base/block assembly (#1 block/forward/towards battery) mine has broken link terminal☹️...I need a block with metal mounting tab intact and male terminals in good condition. Lastly, if anyone has a good, used aftermarket bracket set for mounting 260 bumpers to 77 280. For reasonable shipping expense, would really prefer if I could purchase items 1-3 together. Please e-mail me at dbparker54@yahoo.com Thank you!!!
  13. Fuel pump mystery

    Thanks for both directions!
  14. Fuel pump mystery

    Just a side note: is there a "log off/out" for this site? Probably obvious but I don't see it.
  15. Fuel pump mystery

    This is info I can use! I overlooked relay testing section in FSM and yes, I will get my own continuity/voltage tester for wiring and relay tests. I do need to learn how to use it and I can find someone to explain and/or show me. Also thank you for advice on desirable DC voltage. Will then try to retest all battery to pump components along power paths (with first attention to main relay and pump relay...they did click with every battery/power connect but need to be fully tested anyway). I will retest following wiring diagram from FSM and fuel pump circuit diagram. The ignition switch is the only component that has not gotten any testing to date...and I will remove it from steering column since I can't get to it's pins in place. Too old for body "twists" :=). So the journey begins. Thank you! Please wish me success. Doug
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