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gwri8

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gwri8 last won the day on August 23

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About gwri8

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    Shadeus Treeus Mechanicus

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    Cohutta, GA

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My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    280z

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  1. Jai's Status

    It is a 76'. but she has a 77' bumper on the front. That's the way it came to her from the PO. Either one will be most difficult to replace.
  2. Jai's Status

    I was thinking the the same thing Cliff, but it might look weird with her stock back bumper....if it stays. That would be an option too. But who knows what her insurance will pay for and how they will handle the parts situation, and Jai may not go for that kind of change anyway. I'll bet the toof incident didn't stop you though. Am I right?
  3. Obsolete HTF Parts for Prototyping

    Are you going to only do plastic or metal or both? I suppose rubber parts aren't doable with that machinery?
  4. Jai's Status

    I see a passenger fender, scoop, headlight, ring, possibly a headlight housing. The hardest thing to find is the passenger side front bumper end for a 77'.
  5. How to shoot flame from tailpipe

    Well, I have been known to work in an unorthodox fashion. And, I am an official member of the "Blue Flame Club" so I have background and experience. It's just the creative side of me I guess. As for my wife, let's just say sometimes it's a competition.
  6. How to shoot flame from tailpipe

    I've been eating chili for 3 days straight. As soon this experiment is over I might be able to offer suggestions.
  7. WTB: FICD and Vacuum source magnet valves

    I think I'm getting so good at it I can switch hands and gain a stroke.... no pictures allowed
  8. WTB: FICD and Vacuum source magnet valves

    Waaaayyy too many opportunites to segue straight to the gutter here and since I don't need much of a lead... I shall refrain..... and just to be clear, I'm not a prolific lever flipper. It either works or it dosen't in my general operating procedure. I followed your advice here and after I moved the vacuum source tube around I finally bypassed everything, Mag valve bracket and the vacuum bottle. It turns out that the check valve was bad. Apparently it was leaking slowly and wouldn't hold any pressure. I've never heard of one of those to go bad before, but I learn something new everyday. Fortunately I have a whole bracket from a parts car. The mag valves were toast on that one but I never throw anything away and still had it in my stash! I was able to use the check valve from that one with success. Now there is glorious heat on demand! A whole new season of driving is now an option. So Thanks Cap'n!
  9. 3rd Brake Light?

    No butt connector. I used a quick splice connector to the hot (green/white? if I remember correctly. You should probably check to make sure) on the rear brake light and grounded to the body. similar to these connectors. https://www.amazon.com/CJESLNA-Splice-Electrical-Connector-Assortment/dp/B00A7YO5AK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505420033&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+splicers Putting it outside on the louvers would make you drill a hole near the glass for the wiring. I don't know about your louvers, but mine bounce a little bit, so consider that also.
  10. 3rd Brake Light?

    I added a third brake light to mine with a $10 Ebay light and wired to to my existing brake lights. Mine is kind of short but it is pretty bright. You could probably find one longer if you wanted. 3M adhesive tape mounted it to the inside glass and has held up well over the summer. It's very visible through the louvers to normal kinds of vehicles and SUV's behind me when on the road, but probably not to any high lift trucks, say, at a stop light. This is the only pic I have at the moment.
  11. WTB: FICD and Vacuum source magnet valves

    Thanks CO. No doubt about it that Mr. Electricity and I do not get along very well ever since that (those) time (times) he bit me so any furtherance of my education(or lack thereof) is appreciated. I'm not too concerned with the AC part just now (season change and all). Just for starters, I know it needs a compressor (locked up), a pressure switch (wires broken) and of course the unicorn drier for a 77'. I do want to try to keep it as original as I can. But all that aside, the heat should work and there's no heat at the moment via the dash selector/vacuum. No "thunk" from the mode door when engaging the levers. There are no leaks at the heater valve and hot water travels to the heater core. It did have intermittent heat last winter, but would heat for maybe 30 minutes or less and then stop. Since it was a mild winter last year it wasn't so much of a problem, but I'm on it this year. I've checked continuity and ran 12v to each of the magnet valves seperatly and they "clicked" when they should have as well as confirmed power to them. As far as my limited electrical knowledge goes, I know that does not necessarily mean they are good. Is there a better way to confirm their function?
  12. WTB: FICD and Vacuum source magnet valves

    Thanks Cliff, and yes, I have been through that thread and everything else under the dash for the last 3 days. Vacuum is good from the manifold to the reservoir tank and lost just after the vacuum source valve. All the other actuators and lines check out
  13. Hi Folks, I've narrowed down my Heat/AC vacuum problems to the magnet valves on my 77'. Anybody have a working set they want to sell or know where I could find them?
  14. irma

    Hope you're hanging tight!
  15. Head Gasket Oil Leak

    Ditto on Chickenmans' recommendation. Better safe than sorry when it comes to head bolts. The good news is that you probably won't snap any when removing them. Stock head bolts are not re-useable. ARP bolts are, but they are more expensive.
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