Need advice on brake rotors for '72 240Z

[siteunseen]

32 minutes ago, w3wilkes said:

I'm guessing this is what you were referring to with the IMI pads?

http://www.wagnerbrake.com/products/brakes/wagner-tq-thermoquiet.html

The description sounds like the shims are integrated in the pads. You should be able to get them at O'Reilly for $29.00

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/thermoquiet-5227/brake-systems-16456/brake-pads-shoes-16515/brake-pads-12845/a99314144bb6/wagner-thermoquiet-ceramic-front-brake-pads/pd161/4783833/1971/nissan/240z?manufacturer=true

You're exactly right!

I really like mine too. Good stopping and never heard a sound from them. Maybe all the newer pads figured it out now but when I was in high school in the '80s I was constantly embarrassed by my 280 squealing.  It was horrible. 4 Pioneer TS6907s with a Nakamechi Dragon head and Sony 400 watt amp fixed it.

[gnosez]

I am not aware of slotted rotors cracking unlike the cross-drilled ones. Those don't make any sense in regards to cooling as the brake pads block any hot gases whereas the slotted ones allow those gases to escape.

I currently run slotted vented rotors on the race car but I had them cryo and REM treated so they aren't stock.

A mostly stock Z doesn't need vented, slotted or cross-drilled, just a nice set of pads.

[Grubb240Z]

I picked up the Stop Tech "Posi-Quiet" ceramic pads at Motorsport Auto and we did the job yesterday (Sunday). Everything went well, and the brakes and new rotors are working perfectly. No noise whatsoever and it appears all the parts we took off ended up back on the car (always a good thing).

The pads came with the "backing plates" or "shims" already installed. We put a little grease on them before installation. All required hardware was there (plus some kind of wire clips, which I assume are for installation on another kind of car).

The only canundrum I dealt with was what to do with the calipers once I removed them to take off the old rotors (I didn't want to have to do any bleeding). I assumed those strange clips on the struts that secure the brake lines would allow me to slide the line out after I pulled the tension clip out. I was wrong. I see that some people modify the bracket, adding a slot so they can slide the line out. I was able to rotate the caliper out of the way to remove the rotor and then put them back and hold them in place with the normal mounting bolts. No problem.

Successful project!

[edearman]

?

[Zed Head]

1 hour ago, edearman said:

Sounds like your “right side” caliper is stuck and not working thus causing the car to pull when braking.

Nominate for the "latest to the party".

[siteunseen]

2 hours ago, edearman said:

?

Reading comprehension,  "successful project".

[Captain Obvious]

I would just use stock-style rotors. I believe you can get them from Rockauto.

[Zed Head]

50 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Reading comprehension,  "successful project".

Mike needs to fix that glitch that allows people on the app to edit their comments and have it look like they never happened.  Pretty sure the first post was from tapatalk.

Not a good look edearman!  No hiding on this forum.

[edearman]

Mike needs to fix that glitch that allows people on the app to edit their comments and have it look like they never happened.  Pretty sure the first post was from tapatalk.
Not a good look edearman!  No hiding on this forum.

Sorry for trying to help...it won’t happen again.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[David F]

On 4/10/2018 at 2:59 PM, Zed Head said:

I almost commented about shims the first time around.  Get the shims, for behind the pads, if you don't already have them.  MSA says that they only have one side but you can break the tabs off and make them work.  The tabs are for convenience during installation.  Some people don't have the problem with no shims but they are a guaranteed solution and don't hurt anything f they're still flat.

If you live by MSA you can always get them later, easily, and take the pads off one more time.

I just added the MSA (genuine Nissan) shims to my car and all the noise is 100% cured.  I purchased 4 shims, all the same, and simply inserted two of the shims in the vise and bent the tabs in the other direction. No need to cut or break them off.  It is so easy, it makes sense that one "side" is currently manufactured.

Edited April 16, 2018 by David F
grammar

[Zed Head]

21 minutes ago, edearman said:

Sorry for trying to help...it won’t happen again.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

You could just take a step back and see how it looked from my end.  If you wanted to.  I like to have some fun on the forum.  Offense was not intended.

[gwri8]

18 minutes ago, David F said:

I just added the MSA (genuine Nissan) shims to my car and all the noise is 100% cured.  I purchased 4 shims, all the same, and simply inserted two of the shims in the vise and bent the tabs in the other direction. No need to cut or break them off.  It is so easy, it makes sense that one "side" is currently manufactured.

I just did the very same thing plus a new caliper from ORielly's.  Just bend them carefully and they work perfect.  I'm no longer embarrassed when someone admiring the car hears a squeal when I stop.