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Correct fasteners for Intake and Exhaust Manifolds


Namerow

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I love these thread threads...

More to add to the ever growing hardware database.

The other engine studs that come to mind are:

2 M8's on the fuel pump mount

3 M8's on the "other" end of the exhaust manifold at the downpipe.

1 M10 on the alternator mount

8 M8's on the SU manifold

4 M6 on the fan clutch to water pump flange.

2 M8's on the clutch master, though those are special splined ones 

BTW, I feel remiss that I did not check my "bolts verses studs" on the upper 6 intake issue. I have 6 bolts on 3798

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  • 2 weeks later...
7 minutes ago, Namerow said:

So, growing consensus (4 owners!) that bolts, not studs, are correct for the top row of  manifold fasteners.  Now the still-unanswered question:  Why?

With bolts on the top row it makes installing the intake very easy. The big washers on the lower holes hold the intake in place while the bolts are installed. If there were studs everywhere it might be hard to slide the intake in place. I should know soon since I'm disassembling an L24 with two studs in the top row.

Chuck

 

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  • 2 months later...

I simply cannot believe they would have used 5/16 - 20. Sometimes an assembly trick is to make the two ends different so you cannot put something together wrong. But in that case, you don't make them just slightly different... You make them significantly different.

I gotta believe they are (supposed to be) M8 x 1.25 on both ends.  Do you have a 5/16 - 20 die that DOES fit?

I've seen stuff where the threads are stretched either from overtorque or years of differential rates of thermal expansion. Or maybe there's aluminum residue galled into the threads? Or maybe threadlock compound? Or maybe the crests are rounded over as an anti-vibration retention technique? 

Just tossing out ideas. Have you looked closely at the threads with magnification?

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