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I don't want to hijack this thread, but since you guys are sort of on topic I'd like to ask a quick question. I have an 80' ZX with a perfectly good running engine/Nissan 5spd transmission. But down the road, when it does finally wear out, I'd like to pull it and ship it to Datsun Spirit to have them build a stage 3. Would you recommend that I have them rebuild the stock transmission, or find a turbo with a T5?

 

 

 

 

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My $.02 worth - rebuild the NA ZX tranny.

The T5 is heavier and notchy. You'll need to get an aftermarket shift kit to make it feel smoother.

I've had several ZX trannies in both my street and race 240Z with no issues unless you count operator error.

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21 hours ago, Jason240z said:

in which way?  what compared to what?

The ebay rods by max speeding, spool etc are all the same. From having used both I can tell you the short ebay L28 rods measured at 615 grams +/- 1.2 grams and were only 130.3mm long. The DSI rods are 139.5mm long, they measured at 500 grams and all were within less than 0.5 grams. In a high spec engine every bit helps, especially with quick revs. Compare the DSI piston/rod combo to the shorter Ebay rods, 690 grams less for the DSI rods alone.

Then there's the DSI pistons, a 3.4kg flywheel. Things really start to add up then. I'm not saying the ebay rods are garbage, mine served their purpose without fault but It all comes down to your build spec.

From what I can see a lot of the DSI rod & piston offerings look very similar to Kameari. 

 

To get back on topic, Diseazd do you know if Eiji sonic tested the block? 

Edited by riceburner

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Not sure riceburner. I'm spending the day with Eiji Monday to finish building the motor. I'll ask him. If you want me to check on anything else.  Cheers....Guy

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BTW.....I'm still not sure which way to go on a flywheel. I'm going 240 mm, but not sure if I want to go light or not. I have a stock 240 mm flywheel that was lightened by the Z Doc......Eiji uses a 12 lb. flywheel. I'm leaning towards the heavier wheel as I spend most of my driving where torque is needed. I know the 12 lb. wheel will spin faster, but a heavier flywheel will be easier to drive at stoplight to stoplight and in a quarter mile sprint! Any thoughts?

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What's the weight of the lightened 240mm? Might be a good compromise . Mine weighs in at 17.
Hybridz guy is using 350z flywheel -250mm - chrome Molly 16 lbs


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

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My engine is not a stroker but I am running a Fidanza aluminum flywheel which comes in around 10.5 pounds.  I was a little concerned that it was going to take some getting used to when I first installed it, but it has been great.  Feels pretty normal as compared to the stock setup, but the engine definitely seems to spin up faster / easier.  Would definitely go this route again in another build.

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I understand where you're coming from Mike.....but I'm looking for inertia.......me and Eiji have an ongoing friendly competition going on in straight line racing.   :beer:

Edited by Diseazd
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I have a Tilton 10.5lb 225mm with the $100 Exedy clutch kit that isn't noisy at all.  My 280 with the same clutch kit on an OE 225mm flywheel is noisy as hell when the throwout bearing has the load but I beat it down with the old bearing when I installed it onto the collar.  The next time I had a machine shop press the new on, no noise.

EDIT: I used a bench vise and the old bearing instead of a hammer to press the first one on, sorry. :hi: 

Edited by siteunseen
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During acceleration, a lighter flywheel will deliver more torque to the wheels than a heavier one...

I run a 10lb flywheel in the Z and an 8lb flywheel in my S2000. Anything heavier is sports-car sacrilege as far as I'm concerned!

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You're right LeonV, the word I should have used is inertia, not torque........that's what I feel like I need for stoplight to stoplight and launching the quarter mile. 

Edited by Diseazd
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Geometried the head with my Stage III Isky cam.....wipe patterns are checked. Will take it to Eiji Monday....he'll cc the chambers, assemble the head, then time the cam. I'll bring her home and finish it up in the next week or so.

 

 

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You have to let us know how the quarter mile runs turn out. :victorious:

Looking back at your photos I see ".150.  I saved some money with Schneider but they sent a bag of ".190s. :crashh:

Edited by siteunseen
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Will do Site.....BTW, I've got a new name for you instead of siteunseen.....AlabamaZama! Thought of that the other night when I was sucking down a few brews! Whatcha think?    BTW.....All 12 lash pads are .160's.....could easily take .170's as you can see on the wipe patterns in the pic.  Maybe AlaZama!

Edited by Diseazd
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17 minutes ago, Diseazd said:

AlaZama!

I love it! :beer:.

I've read a good bit on thinning the lash pads.  It's all in the flat files I buy, rough/medium and a pair of leather gloves.

AlaZama out...

 

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A machine shop will cut those down for a song.....those suckers are really hard PITA to file. You'll see what I mean.  :Grrrrr:

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17 hours ago, Diseazd said:

A machine shop will cut those down for a song.....those suckers are really hard PITA to file. You'll see what I mean.  :Grrrrr:

So if I get the exhaust and the intakes hitting the wipe pad right by filing them myself I could have the other 10 cut down by a machinist?  Do one of each and use those to check all twelve lobes?  I was going to use the outer spring only for the sizing of the lash pads and do one at a time.

Thanks Guy, I appreciate your help.  It really helps getting started into the unknown after talking with someone that's been there and done that. :)

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Zama.......I keep one each of a .140, .150, .160, .170, .180, .190 and a .200 lash pads....Just for testing. No need to just install outer spring, since you are just doing one at a time. With those combos, you can center the wipe patterns on almost any cam. I magic marker about 1/4 inch on each side of the face of each rocker arm. Start with number one installing the rocker......then adjust to cold lash, put a dab of oil on the lobe and rotate the cam. Check the pattern.....if centered you are good....if too far back repeat with a thicker lash pad until centered....too far forward, use a thinner pad. Remove that rocker and go to number two. Only one rocker installed at once...... it's not rocket science. Take your time....don't forget to set lash and don't forget to oil the lobe. Write down the numbers for each rocker (1-12) then either buy each lash pad in the right size or have the machine shop or yourself cut them to fit. All 12 of mine were centered with .160's. 

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Man that helps!  Thank you.

One more though.  Install all 12 valves and the springs first?  Then do one rocker at a time.

Thanks

I looked and now know the answer. I'm more astronaut than rocket scientist. LOL

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