Looking for advice on replacing all the hard brake lines

[grannyknot]

Eastwood finally came through, this is a sweet little tool, well made and good action. It makes a wide variety fitting ends.

Here is a single bubble flare or step 1 of a double flare,

A double flare,

It even makes a good lip for fuel lines by engaging the 3/8" flare just a bit,

The Tilton clutch master cylinder requires a male single flare and I'm wondering if I can use a single bubble to mate with it. Anybody know if I can do that?

Edited December 17, 2016 by grannyknot

[Captain Obvious]

My PO did the same thing with the slight single outward flare on the fuel lines and it was a pain in the tuchus. Difficult to get the rubber started over the flare, and cut up the inside of the tube over time.

What I found worked a lot better was partially formed bubble flare. Do step one of a bubble flare, but don't push it out quite as far. Just enough to get a bulge that will keep the hose clamp from slipping off.

[grannyknot]

Like this, very nice,

Edited December 18, 2016 by grannyknot

[Captain Obvious]

Yup, like that. I would go a little more with the bulge. Essentially do what you can try to recreate the shape of the bulges on the original fuel and coolant lines.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what process was used to form the original bulges? Were they hydro-formed?

[zKars]

The tool to form that ridge is called a beading tool.

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=AP145

 

OF course there are a hundred DIY tools on Utube...

 

Edited December 18, 2016 by zKars

[wheee!]

I'm going to have a look at work to see if we have any of those! We can sign tools out from the tool crib for personal use... they probably don't even know what they're for anymore!

[Patcon]

I wouldn't think they roll beaded small diameter stuff. No way to insert an anvil on the interior side of the pipe... I would suspect some kind of flair process...

[zKars]

4 hours ago, Patcon said:

I wouldn't think they roll beaded small diameter stuff. No way to insert an anvil on the interior side of the pipe... I would suspect some kind of flair process...

The ATS tool I linked to goes down to 1/4" tubing. I guess that leaves out 3/16, but I would think that would be small enough for our uses.

I bought the graham small tool for 1/4 and 5/16. Works just great. Sorry Wheee! You're not borrowing from my crib!

http://www.grahamtool.com/smalltubebeadingtool.aspx

Edited December 19, 2016 by zKars

[Captain Obvious]

Cool. I wouldn't have thought they rolled stuff that small either.

Thanks for the link!

[Careless]

I have made two bead rollers like that with vice grips, a 2.5 inch exhaust clamp bracket, and a machined washer. it's probably the most useful tool I built for under 8 dollars, and it's well worth the 2 minutes of welding required to get it set up. the part that takes the longest is dragging the welder out and finding a space to lay everything on to start welding.

 

[Careless]

On 12/16/2016 at 7:09 PM, grannyknot said:

The Tilton clutch master cylinder requires a male single flare and I'm wondering if I can use a single bubble to mate with it. Anybody know if I can do that?

The left looks like a JIC flare / AN Steel.

What is the thread of the slave clyinder side? If you want to match to the master cylinder side, you have options:

http://www.brucesspeed.com/brakeadapter.aspx

 

[Careless]

On 12/16/2016 at 7:09 PM, grannyknot said:

The Tilton clutch master cylinder requires a male single flare and I'm wondering if I can use a single bubble to mate with it. Anybody know if I can do that?

The left looks like a JIC flare / AN Steel.

What is the thread of the slave clyinder side? If you want to match to the master cylinder side, you have options:

http://www.brucesspeed.com/brakeadapter.aspx