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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build


Patcon

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Thanks Rich,

I have slowed down a lot in the last few years so hopefully we can avoid those kind of interactions. But it will be hard to be discreet.

CO,

The wheels on hinges are round but they have so much paint on them now I don't know if they will rotate or not. We will see...

Edited by Patcon
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1 hour ago, Patcon said:

@ksechler

I enjoyed following you do your car. How are your fender flairs holding up? They turned out nice...

Thanks, the flairs are holding up fine so far.  I think in hindsight I would not have done them and just run 205 or 215's instead of 225's.  Sometimes I feel like they look a little goofy (but only sometimes). :-)   

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  • 2 weeks later...

Trying to do something every week to get it moving along

This week I plated a few small things trying to get my plating back up and going. I did some small screws for Cody's 510

But along that line. I realized I have no idea what color to make certain screws and bolts

I was stringing hardware and then realized I don't know if all of this should be clear or yellow zinc

The other bigger problem is I don't know where all of these go...

I didn't do very well labeling hardware when my kids helped me strip the car.

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Many times I recognize the hardware and know where it goes but not so much today

Any help identifying fastener locations would be great.

Are the flat sided washers for the front fenders? I made a serious mistake at Zcon this year. I had some excellent vehicles to make pictures of so I knew where the hardware went but it slipped my mind.

 

I believe these are the door hinge bolts.M8x1.5 x 18L or so... I think they should be yellow zinc and the thick flat washers that go inside the body should be clear zinc or yellow?

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these sway bar plates I believe should be yellow zinc...?

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On a separate note, I took the Disepyon approach to my hood. It is an aftermarket hood I have had for 20 years or so. I didn't like the way the 2 pieces of metal meet on the front edge met. They didn't really line up very well. So I took the grinder to it.

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Much better now

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46 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I also need to press new rubber bushings in the lower control arms for the front and the spindle pins for the back. Any tips on doing this or pitfalls to avoid?

Are you going to burn out the rubber and hacksaw the outer sleeve or press the old bushing out?

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13 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Are you going to burn out the rubber and hacksaw the outer sleeve or press the old bushing out?

I thought I would try to press them out first. If they didn't want to come out I would cut them out...

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I pressed out my front control arm bushings with a vise and some well-chosen sockets.  Heat made the difference.  No heat, no movement.  They even stopped moving as the metal cooled after I removed the torch.  Pretty sure that people have bent tier arms also, so more force might not be a good option, if it comes to mind.  Unless a brace is used in between.  Heat.

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