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$50 fuel rail

This is a discussion on $50 fuel rail within the Fuel Injection (S30) forums, part of the 1st Generation Z (S30) category; 2' aluminium stock off ebay $30. 6 -1/4 NPTx5/16 barbs from Lowes @$1.60, 2 -3/8 NPTx5/16 barbs from Fastenal @$2.03, ...


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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    Default $50 fuel rail

    2' aluminium stock off ebay $30. 6 -1/4 NPTx5/16 barbs from Lowes @$1.60, 2 -3/8 NPTx5/16 barbs from Fastenal @$2.03, loaned from a plumber friend taps & bits @$0, 4lbs baking soda for blasting gun from Dollar Store $2.00. $100 on beer. Easy to do. I'm gonna give myself a 8 out of 10. Next one will be perfect. fuel rail-sdc10639.jpg fuel rail-sdc10640.jpg

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    Real DIY. Nice.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    Thank you Blue, that means a lot.
    Last edited by siteunseen; 06-20-2012 at 02:58 PM.

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    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Fantastic! Just fantastic...

    I bought that same 6 AN stock you did, (really great price, huh!). Stuff is VERY nice. Also, run some aluminum polish on it and it will shine like sparkling new chrome.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    The blue and white paired wire I spy is often used in the telephone industry I think.

    120ohm/100ohm E1/T1 wire-wrap cross connects
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    How do you go about drilling the main line to feed all 6 injectors?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Registered User grantf's Avatar
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    looks strait forward and simple, but my question is why? I see people using aftermarket fuel rails and homemade ones from time to time but is there a reason other than it looks neat?

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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    Ben the aluminium rail already has the 1/2" feed line drilled in it http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash6.html. And yes that is Blue, blue & blue white twisted pair phone wire. FYI everybody on DSL that's all it takes to connect you to the info highway, 2 little wires. Coaxial is the way to go. And my quest is to do away with all hardlines on my motor. They get crudded up.

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    Registered User 78sid's Avatar
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    Very nice and thanks for the info. On my 78, I've got my OEM setup rehabbed and running well, but I strongly considered going this route rather than take the time to clean it up. It may sound like a stupid question, but when you do something like this, do you regulate the fuel pressure by replacing the stock fuel pump with an adjustable one?

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    You ordered 2 feet? How did you space the injectors?

    Quote Originally Posted by siteunseen View Post
    Ben the aluminium rail already has the 1/2" feed line drilled in it http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash6.html. And yes that is Blue, blue & blue white twisted pair phone wire. FYI everybody on DSL that's all it takes to connect you to the info highway, 2 little wires. Coaxial is the way to go. And my quest is to do away with all hardlines on my motor. They get crudded up.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    I'd like to know the answer to this as I am going to be installing a Bell Engineering Rising Rate FPR with my 280zxt swap. It still requires the OE regulator.

    Quote Originally Posted by 78sid View Post
    Very nice and thanks for the info. On my 78, I've got my OEM setup rehabbed and running well, but I strongly considered going this route rather than take the time to clean it up. It may sound like a stupid question, but when you do something like this, do you regulate the fuel pressure by replacing the stock fuel pump with an adjustable one?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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     fuel rail-7091748705_90a1088980_b.jpg

    Here is the same fuel rail used on my car. From the same manufacturer. I had to hook up one of those cheap holley fuel pressure regulators on the passenger firewall. Mine is dead headed, but both ends of the fuel rail are tapped just in case I want to run a return line. I have the rail drilled and tapped for a pressure regulator at the back.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Here's the measurments from Willoughby Z, thanking him again, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread43897.html. Scroll down to #21. I'm going to be putting a FPR on the firewall close to where the coolant in and out is on the passenger's side and running the return down to the hardline going back to the tank, on passenger's side. The one for a '78 only has 1 inlet and the return on bottom. So the end of the rail closet to windshield will be connected by about 2' high pressure 5/16' fuel line to the FPR then low pressure from the bottom or return of the FPR down above the starter but below the battery down that flat part of the frame where the hard fuel lines are coming from the tank and connect to the return. It works in my head but is hard to explain. I just woke up so sorry for the rambling. My medication takes about 30 minutes to kick in.

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    Holy moly! I just looked at Zedyone's picture. That is a thing of beauty Sir.

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    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    It looks just like yours buddy. Same exact part. You chose the more adult OEM finish with the blasting and it looks spot on perfect. I was far more lazy and just hit it with some aluminum polish and called it a day...

    You should be very proud of your work, it looks great!!!

    But like you, now that I have built one, think I could do it much better this time around. We always learn on our first attempt.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Wish I could build me a new fuel rail like that. If I did I would fail the visual inspection here in California!

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Does the FPR you have support pressures high enough for EFI?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zedyone_kenobi View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	7091748705_90a1088980_b.jpg 
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    Here is the same fuel rail used on my car. From the same manufacturer. I had to hook up one of those cheap holley fuel pressure regulators on the passenger firewall. Mine is dead headed, but both ends of the fuel rail are tapped just in case I want to run a return line. I have the rail drilled and tapped for a pressure regulator at the back.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    Default Sprung a leak.

    So proud of my fuel rail and now it has a small leak on the line to the FPR. I used Permatex red gasket adhesive for thread sealer, stupid I realize now, it was high temp and claimed to be fuel resistant but it ain't! My neighbor who is a HVAC contractor said I should use flux and plumbing solder on the brass fuel barbs then screw them into the aluminium fuel rail. Anybody have any thoughts or experiences? Zedyone_kenobi what did you use for thread sealer?

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    Flux is acidic and corrosive.

    Use yellow teflon tape for sealing fuel line threads. Many have used it with success.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    teflon tape is impermeable to everything up to and including uranium hexafluoride, one of the most caustic substances known to mankind.

    Teflon's first major usage WAS, in fact, for seals on the pumps on the gaseous diffusion plant at Oak Ridge during enrichment of the Uranium for the first atomic boms.

    I'm pretty sure it'll stand up to gasoline.

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    Registered User grantf's Avatar
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    Blue beat me to it. Yellow teflon.
    1977 280z
    1974 260z long gone

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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I had some but thought of it as a natural gas only. But the good ole internet brings out the truth.

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    FYI I thought that yellow has some sort of gas resistant compound added to it however wikipedia reports the tapes are colour-coded only to thickness. (Yellow is thicker than white).
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    I read that too, Blue. Pink is thicker than yellow. Also read the 1st Atomic Bomb is credited for non-stick cookware.

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