Electrical
128 topics in this forum
-
- 8 followers
- 180 replies
- 15.7k views
Hey folks, and tnx in advance. 1982 Datsun 5 speed Trubo. at cold start the car idles steady at aprox 1100 RPM. 10min later after it warms up i start to hear little miss here and there. the longer it runs, the more miss and rough idle starts to happen to a point that needle is all over the place. I place a vacuum gauge on the Fuel Reg hose and i see that at first its steady in the green but again once car is warm, gauge is all over the place form RED to Green. here is the interesting part, when i loosen the 2 screws on the distributor cap, and raise it up just a tiny bit, the idle becomes perfect (about 800 or so), the engine sounds prefect and the va…
Last reply by ira, -
-
82 NA 280ZX. I have fuel, spark, but no power to fuel injectors. Crank angle sensor seems intact(wiring). Car has been sitting many years, has fresh fuel, no blockage in fuel rails. Other than Control Unit, what else will power fuel injectors? It seems hasty to pull the trigger on a new ECM, but as far as I can tell that seems to be the issue. I pulled the ECM out, seems clean, no obvious issues. Any thoughts?
Last reply by DC871F, -
- 17 replies
- 14k views
1978 280Z manual, 2 seat. I have had a continued problem with "systems on" AKA fuel pump runs, volt charge lite on, EFI relay goes on, when Key off. I first tested all EFI (under hood right side box) relays, all OK. Check alternator which was new-OK, seat belt warning lite ON, unplugged harness, checked key switch-OK. Removed key switch harness, still got same systems showing "ON". Would run down battery in few hours as fuel pump remained running. Note even with full charge volt meter reads low (4-6) but will creep up to 12 plus over time. Charge light remains on. Finally printed blown up FMS electrical skew's, ONLY common to all this stuff, more so with ign switch unplu…
Last reply by restorerestore, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 9.7k views
I searched through all threads here, and allthough they were helpful, they were a little lacking, so i thought I would post this incase anybody else need help in the future. On my 83ZX, this breaker was located on the passenger side above the fuse panel. But what some of the threads here do not indicate is that you have to remove the two bolts that hold the junction box where all the wire connections are. This is a fist sized black plastic mount that sits at a 45 degree angle that block you from getting to the breaker, just remove the screws and push it out of the way. Now, for the breaker location. It is attached by 2 bolts to the inner structure of the car, and the brea…
Last reply by George k, -
- 1 follower
- 15 replies
- 9.3k views
Ok as some of you know I'm trying to steal the 79 EFI to run on my 71. I've been staring at schematics for awhile, looking through the FSM Engine electrics and EFI sections of the FSM, but I can not figure out what the yellow wire from the body plug leading into the EFI relay does. The black and white and green wire are switched power. Assuming to run to the ECU and one to the Dropping resistors. I checked voltage to the yellow wire while the car is running and nothing. And nothing during cranking only and it's not going to ground. So I let it run and cut it while the car was running. No change. Turned the car off and back on no issues. The other thing I not…
Last reply by JSM, -
- 1 reply
- 7.7k views
I just learned something about a starter problem that I haven't seen remarked about in any forum - and I did a quick search here to check. The problem I had was that turning the key to the start position in my 1983 280ZX didn't always engage the starter. Once in every 5 or 10 times, I heard a relay click but the starter would NOT engage - even turning the key in and out of the start position multiple times. I changed the ignition switch - and no luck. I checked all contacts and no luck. I pulled the starter twice (only 3 years since rebuilt) and took it to the shop which rebuilt it for a check-out. It engaged every time they tested it. THEN I got a chance to talk w…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 10 replies
- 7.6k views
Installing aftermarket CD player, cannot find power for the electric antenna. I have the prints handy, but where do I hook power (antenna lead) from the CD player to the Car harness? I have an 83 GL with electric tuner. THanks
Last reply by Classic83owner, -
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 7.6k views
Is any one out there knowledgable about the Crane Fireball ignition system? I have a 83 zx turbo I bought about a month ago.When I first got car, I had to tear dash and heater out and go through all wiring. PO had a dual battery system installed with fuel pump relayed through rear battery Ive got everything back as close to stock wiring as Ime able,not being too electrically adept myself. Ive got fuel pump operating through relay, as Iwasnt able to get power back to fuel pump through stock wiring, even though all relays tested good.Anyway, thats all solved.My problem now is that Ime getting no spark. Ihave a Crane Fireball HI 6S ignition system with universal magnetic tri…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
- 8 replies
- 7.5k views
So, I've been working on restoring a '79 280zx, and man, it's been a fight. But finally, it's running, it's ready to go, and so I thought that from here on out, it'd be all cosmetic. That is until I started testing my lights. Long story short, my right turn signal... With the lights on (parking or head), the front right turn signal will stay solid (even without the turn signal being engaged), and the rear right will flash rapidly. With the lights off, all works well, except the left side (side mounted, not the entire left side) parking light/flasher blinks as well when the right is engaged. The left side turn signals functions, no problem. Any ideas?
Last reply by FricFrac, -
- 22 replies
- 6.6k views
I picked up a $6 voltage regulator to see if I could fix my old 1978 alternator. In removing the VR, the "sub-diodes" came apart (I read the FSM after the fact, it suggests holding the lead with pliers as a heat sink to protect them :mad:). But I think that they might have been bad anyway since the other diodes checked out okay. Who knows. The alternator charged fine, by voltmeter readings, but the charge light went on and increased in intensity with RPM, which seems like a diode problem. Would anyone know where anything about these tiny diodes and where a suitable replacement might be found? I don't really have anything to lose so any WAG is appreciated. I've atta…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 17 replies
- 6.5k views
So awhile back I tried to jump start my 1982 280zx turbo. Foolishly I swapped the posts on the battery popping a fusible link which I replaced. I have also replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil. But I am still left with no spark. I feel like a huge doofus because if I had swapped the posts the car would be fine. Also I did get a new battery but it has lost charge because it has been sitting but I can jump start it without a problem using the correct posts this time to try and start the car but I am still left with no spark. I do know that a possible problem is the ECU. is there a way to test that and anything else going forward? …
Last reply by DstrbdSuperman, -
- 11 replies
- 6.4k views
When I drive my car with the headlights on, the alternator light glows very dimly. I have not had any problems starting and this has been going on for months. I have checked the voltage at the battery with car running and I get about 13.4 or so. Belt is tight, connections cleaned. Is my alternator going bad and if it is, do I have a 60 amp or a 70 amp alternator?
Last reply by 81 ZXT,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.