Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,080 topics in this forum
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Hello, I have a 280z I'm putting together. It has a L28 with a rebuilt 260z E88 head, I'm in need of aquiring parts like the intake manifold etc to get it running again. My question is will I be able to pass smog with this head and all the proper smog equipment? I'm based in California.
Last reply by Ownallday, -
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- 6 followers
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I painted my engine bay and when I am currently putting everything back. I’m not sure where this goes.
Last reply by Gorp, -
- 2 followers
- 28 replies
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Today i fried one 15 amp fuse which is plugged in a fuse holder of the parking light harness built by dave irwin and installed in my engine. It came out melted because i removed a 15 amp i had plugged on the instrument fuse holder at the fuse box. I believe this damaged the ammeter of the car. I checked all connections and did not find anything broken. My question is: could the short damage the ammeter? My fuel gauge does work. Can this be fixed and how?
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
- 1 follower
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The large split ones where the headlamp wiring passes through, anyone know who does them new? Cheers, Steve
Last reply by texasz, -
- 6 followers
- 30 replies
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Hello, Over this past summer I got my first '72 240z. One of the first projects I took on was refurbishing the dashboard. After taking it out and putting it back in I was able to get all of the gauges working except for the speedometer (and thus the odometer). I have been trying to screw the cable into the back of the speedometer but every time I try it gets about half way and then won't thread anymore so the cable is not all the way in. I have attached a picture for reference. Could this be an alignment issue with the cable? Has anyone had this problem before? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. IMG-1983.pdf
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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- 9 replies
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I am in the middle of having my 5 speed rebuilt and ran into a major issue. The shop tells me I can't move forward without replacing the 1st gear bushing (PN: 32253-14600), which turns out to be NLA. Not only is the original NLA, the supersessions seem to be as well. If anyone (who isn't a scammer) wants to sell me one, please send me a direct message. If anyone knows of an alternate part that isn't in the supersession list, please let me know! Supersession Part Number: 32253-14611 Replaces: 32253-14600, 32253-14601
Last reply by Matthew Abate, -
- 4 followers
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Hey guys, a little backstory first, I had been hearing some ticking coming from the engine bay so I adjusted my valve lash. As I was doing my lash and turning the engine over by hand, I noticed a pretty bad clunk or click coming from my timing chain. I thought it might be the tensioner but not really sure how to check that. I tried checking if my chain had stretched but I'm having a little difficulty. Anyone know what's causing this noise? I put a video below in case that helps anyone. IMG_1244.mov Thanks in advance.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 followers
- 7 replies
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So, after about a month's break, we are back out in the garage working on our 260Z. Put on the new water pump and everything went swimmingly — until this long, skinny bolt snapped ALL THE WAY DOWN INSIDE as I tightened it. How the hell am I gonna get the broken piece out of there, so deep inside the block? UGH!!!!!!!!
Last reply by mailnome, -
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OK, I know I am probably missing something simple, but I was trying to remove the center console (1971 240Z, 12/70 build) in order to disconnect the shifter. I removed the 2 flat head screws from the rear of the console, the one screw in the coin scoop tray and the two pan head screws that secure the fuse panel. Removed the TINY set screw that holds the choke ever on and the console is loose, but I cannot figure out how to slide it past the fuse panel. There seems to be a metal strap that spans the width of the console (under the fuse panel) that the fuse panel cannot slide over the top of without interfering with the sloped back of the console. I just realized I pr…
Last reply by astrohog, -
- 4 followers
- 34 replies
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I am trying to change the bulbs on the speedo meter and the tach meter and I have a dash cover, so I can't remove the guage. but I removed the center dash where the flip down light is and removed the heater flex hose. and now can reach the sockets but do they just pull out or twist out? thanks
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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Very metallic and rapid clang/clang noise under load is coming from underneath below console maybe closer to passenger side. Goes away when you back off. Much more prevalent when cold and almost goes away when warmed up even under load. Changed rear diff mount, diff fluid and trans fluid. Only one Zcar mechanic in area and he has no clue. Last resort is to remove trans to look for a loose bolt but he's not too confident that is that problem. This is a fairly powerful 240Z with a 280 block, header, cam, flow work on E31 head. Sound just seemed to start for no apparent reason and seemed worse after mount changed and fluid changed but diminishes with driving so maybe recent …
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 4 replies
- 585 views
Did a compression test on the 3.0L/280Z based engine in my 240Z. #1 = 195, #2 = 165, #3 = 170, #4 = 185, #5 = 150, #6 = 175. Want to do a leakdown test to see what's going on in #5. Have a leakdown tester which I've used on vintage motorcycles. Have looked on YouTube and searched the forums, for a leakdown test procedure to use on an L28. For each cylinder, need to test at TDC on compression; how do I determine that for each individual cylinder? Thanks.
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords,
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