Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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I might as well post this up. I just got back from a long drive, with several stops, and not a sign of the heat soak problem. I've made several changes but I think this would be easy for anyone to do, with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as backup for any tuning, rich or lean, that needs to be done. Since it's only me for now though, the risk is there that I just got lucky. Hopefully it's real, I don't want to cause anyone to waste time or money. I’ve been running more modern injectors (1989) for five days now, and they seem to be immune to the heat soak problem. Or the overall modified fuel system is. I’m using 14 mm injectors, Bosch 280 150 901, with the inj…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Before I start here this is what I've done so far to my 1977 Federal 280z EFI: All EFI Bible troubleshooting-- Everything tests normal Smoke test-- no vacuum leaks, engine is a steady 16 or so on the vacuum gauge at idle Fuel pressure with vacuum line off regulator is 32-34 psi (my gauge isn't super precise) Timing at 10 BTC Compression 150 psi across all six cylinders New fuel injectors and fuel filters (I have an additional inline filter before the fuel pump) Generally, the car runs great. I have a wide band oxygen sensor and display hooked up and right now the idle is right at 13.5 AFR. At any throttle opening above 20% under heavy ac…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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So, now that the ambient temps have dropped, I see that the cold start system is not actually operational. When I rewired the EFI harness I found the ECT & TTS were mis-wired. I don't know if that caused an issue at the ECU. In any event, I bridged the TTS connector, and have voltage output from the EFI relay 86 terminal to the cold start valve when cranking (checked with test lamp on pin 86 at relay, and 45 at CSV.) I confirmed the CSV functions by powering & grounding the CSV to the battery with the fuel system pressurized. The CSV does not inject fuel however, and if I put the test light across the pins of the connector, it does not lig…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Whilst I've been adding wiring for my AC install, I've also been wiring the Bosch CIS. It was used on Volvos in the mid 80's with K-JET. V6 version - has correct ECU with 6 cyl ignition pulse. (B) Benzine 2.8l (F) Fuel Injection my wiring Bosch 0280 220 008 - Leerlaufregler = Idle Control combined wiring harnesses for AC & CIS module will be tucked up in right corner removed the throttle body. Made it easier to access the water housing to redrill & add a 12x1.5mm Timesert for the ECT Lots of grease on the drill & tap, picks up the shavings ECT 0280 130 028 (VO 1…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I have not seen a fix for the OEM vapor canister on the 280z posted. I found a way with new parts to still use the OEM one and have it functional. Back ground, I have a 77 and have been chasing running issues. I was focused on vacuum leaks due the a poor idle and erratic performance. I found the vapor canister as culprit because it never closed the purge line at idle and caused a large vacuum leak. I wanted to keep the canister to not have gas venting from the tank when sitting. Check out this video on the canister for knowledge and how to test: The vacuum leak was from the line labeled "purge" - since that goes into the intake and the sto…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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I got reinterested in a thought I've had before about finding a way to use a more available FPR on the 280Z fuel rails, since the stock PFR's are becoming scarce. I just looked on Rockauto and they don't even list FPR's as an option, not even an out-of-stock listing. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air I browsed around Rockauto and realized that the 2.5 bar (36.3 psi) pressure spec. was only around for a few years. Then they went to 3.0 bar, or some odd spec like Ford used of 2.7 bar (why Ford, why?). But I found a Bosch listing and cross-ref'ed it to Rockauto. I don't have my tools available or I might try…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hi guys, It seems that bad karma is following my 76's fuel pumps. After 4 years, the MSD 2225 fuel pump quit on me (installed vertically), I bought a new one, that one lasted less than a year (same orientation). Due to the covid supply issues, instead of waiting for a warranty replacement (weeks), I decided to replace it with the Ultra-power's E8312 unit. I installed it in November in the horizontal position after reading a lot of people saying that it should be horizontal as close to the bottom of the fuel tank line as possible. In all my cases there is a small see-through fuel filter installed just before the pump. The fuel is clear, no rust. I use non-Ethanol fuel…
Last reply by darom, -
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1975 280Z, CA car. So today is the first time I have put gas in the car. Drove it around to check the exhaust note after redoing the exhaust. I filled it - took about 13 gallons. Within seconds fuel started pouring down the back right side of the tank from above the seam. As an aside, getting my wife to like being in the car is getting more & more difficult 😞 In any event, looking in the manuals there are two EVAP lines on the top of the tank. So, I'm assuming the leak is either an aged hose (#28 or 29) that has ruptured, and/or one of the necks is leaking at the tank. I don't know if that's a thing with these though, so I'm hoping it's just the hoses. …
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 3 followers
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So here's my story. I bought this car back in late April, as a running car that needed some work, including a fuel sending unit. According to the seller, the engine was rebuilt about 6,000 miles ago and was in good running condition prior to the sale. The car sat at my mechanic's shop for about a month while the correct fuel sending unit was ordered and delivered. I picked it up about a month ago when finally completed. On the drive home, about 20 miles in, or just as I was 3/4 of the way through the Harbor Tunnel, the engine started to misfire and sputter when I gave it gas and above 3000rpm. I was able to get it to my exit by driving gently and keeping the e…
Last reply by Paulytunes, -
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- 26 replies
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Hey all! This is my first post. I've been active in the Miata and BMW community for the last 20 years but am just diving into Zs How I got here is a long story but I need some help with baselining my EFI settings. I have a wideband O2 sensor installed and am currently idling great at 13.5 AFR but I can't get the idle below 1100 RPM. The idle speed screw is all the way in. The idle air screw on the AFM doesn't seem to do much. I did move my toothed wheel in the AFM to get where I am now (I marked the original position, though I'm not sure it was right to begin with)-- when I first got everything running it was EXTREMELY lean at 20 AFR. My guess is I need to star…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Put a bung on the Z and installed. after warm up idle mix is around 12.5 ish, tried to lean more with the bypass screw but that was as lean as it would go, started at about 11.5 so I was able to bring up some. I did confrim TPS sensor was closed during the idle. Drive around the block test results in mostly 13-13.5 with occasional blips into low 14's, but never sustained above 13's. Will do some highway driving tomorrow just to base line it. I have a few AFM's to try out and see if there is any difference. I am sure at least one has been opened up so I will prob experiment with that one to see if I can get to an optimal lamba reading or a mix of 14.7 while stead…
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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I have heard stories about sticky AFM's in the past, but I have never held one in my own two hands. Until now. So I've got this AFM here that has a binding sticky spot right in the middle of it's travel. I have looked it over very carefully and cannot see any visible explanation for the sticky spot. I'm thinking maybe the damper section of the vane may be making contact up in the belfry area, or the main shaft may be bent. At this point, I'm toying with the prospect of taking the back cover off. I remember some discussion about doing this in the past, but don't remember if anyone has actually gone through with it. Has anyone taken this back side cover off? …
Last reply by HusseinHolland,
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