Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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Since there has always seemed to be a lot of threads with people in need of help with their 280z EFI systems, I have come up with an idea that might get those people in need of help on the right track and give them a little basic knowledge about how the fi's on these cars work! This in return would give us a break on not having to explain everything and how the efi system work so often as they could refer back to the sticky post for those types of questions. Not only this, but they could refer back that post for example and they will know what the parts are called so there wouldn't be anymore of the "black part on the top left", but the actual name and part so we would kn…
Last reply by zspert, -
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Tried to take the Z out for dinner last night, and only got a block from the house, no throttle response, engine stalled. Restarted readily, but would only idle. WBO2 indicates that the system goes waaay lean when any demand is placed on the delivery system. Today I looked it over. Again, the car would idle fine - but - sometimes (ugh) the pressure (mechanical gauge after filter, before rail) drops off until the engine stalls. Blipping the throttle would sometimes make the regulated pressure pop back up. YT Vid What is bugging me is what the heck in the system could cause the pressure to drop off & then pop back up? I'm not familiar with the workings o…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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I'm working on a minor project because I'm odd that way. I'm looking for the connector off of the stock ECU. I don't need the computer, just the connector that's on it. Anyone have any junk ECU's or have any ideas where I can find one?
Last reply by LorenB667, -
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Hi guys, quick question. Rockauto seems to have reman 5-pin AFMs in stock where the Canada spec one is half the price of the federal emissions (guessing that means USA) spec version. Anyone know what is the mechanical difference between these?
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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Ok, I have a 71 240 that I'm converting EFI. This means using an EFI fuel pump. My usual MO here is to retro-fit an in-tank pump. Quiet, secure, self filtering, blah blah blah. Done it to my old 73 years ago and to a couple of my 510's since. Easy peasy as they say. Well the 510's are easy. Lots of room above the tank. Not so much on Z's. If you want to mount the pump in the top of the tank, there is no or very little room between the floor and tank top, and you have to cut a wee hole in your deck then come up with a way to cover it. Then put up with a lump back there for ever more. Not perfect. Well until Vintage Tanks just announced a new product. ht…
Last reply by zKars, -
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Hi guys, I am looking for your advice before I open my AFM unit and start messing with it. Symptoms: when the car is cold, it runs very lean, bogs down, popping noises, lack of power. When it warms up, more manageable to drive, although it occasionally makes the same popping noises. it also smells lean from the exhaust. What has been done: 1. Remanufactured AFM, sealed up. Adjustments to the air bypass screw don't help richen up the mixture. 2. I went through all the FI Book tests, the air temp sensor in the AFM/water temp sensor in the t-housing, all pass. Cold and warmed up. 3. Throttle positive switch - adjusted, at idle, middle position a…
Last reply by darom, -
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Wondering if anyone has done this. I found a thread on HyridZ where the main suggestion was to simply bridge 36/39 w/key on to engage the fuel pump. That appears to be a viable approach, if it comes to that. I need to do this as cold start definitely is impeded by lack of system prime. Hot or warm starts are pretty rapid in terms of cranking time What I was thinking was more along the lines of a timer/delay circuit that would run the pump for 3-5sec when the key is turned, anywhere in ACC or On, so that no additional input is required. I've found a range of timer relay/circuit boards that would possibly do the trick, the issue seems to be making it only run once with…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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Hey guys! I am away from the car at the moment and I wonder if anyone knows the throttle body bolt spacing for the N42 intake manifold on the 76 280Z. I am looking at an aftermarket 70mm throttle body with 65mm bolt spacing. I seem to remember the stock throttle body was 60mm...? Can anyone help? @Captain Obvious perhaps? Thanks!
Last reply by wheee!, -
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Before I start here this is what I've done so far to my 1977 Federal 280z EFI: All EFI Bible troubleshooting-- Everything tests normal Smoke test-- no vacuum leaks, engine is a steady 16 or so on the vacuum gauge at idle Fuel pressure with vacuum line off regulator is 32-34 psi (my gauge isn't super precise) Timing at 10 BTC Compression 150 psi across all six cylinders New fuel injectors and fuel filters (I have an additional inline filter before the fuel pump) Generally, the car runs great. I have a wide band oxygen sensor and display hooked up and right now the idle is right at 13.5 AFR. At any throttle opening above 20% under heavy ac…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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So, now that the ambient temps have dropped, I see that the cold start system is not actually operational. When I rewired the EFI harness I found the ECT & TTS were mis-wired. I don't know if that caused an issue at the ECU. In any event, I bridged the TTS connector, and have voltage output from the EFI relay 86 terminal to the cold start valve when cranking (checked with test lamp on pin 86 at relay, and 45 at CSV.) I confirmed the CSV functions by powering & grounding the CSV to the battery with the fuel system pressurized. The CSV does not inject fuel however, and if I put the test light across the pins of the connector, it does not lig…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 18 replies
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I have not seen a fix for the OEM vapor canister on the 280z posted. I found a way with new parts to still use the OEM one and have it functional. Back ground, I have a 77 and have been chasing running issues. I was focused on vacuum leaks due the a poor idle and erratic performance. I found the vapor canister as culprit because it never closed the purge line at idle and caused a large vacuum leak. I wanted to keep the canister to not have gas venting from the tank when sitting. Check out this video on the canister for knowledge and how to test: The vacuum leak was from the line labeled "purge" - since that goes into the intake and the sto…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Whilst I've been adding wiring for my AC install, I've also been wiring the Bosch CIS. It was used on Volvos in the mid 80's with K-JET. V6 version - has correct ECU with 6 cyl ignition pulse. (B) Benzine 2.8l (F) Fuel Injection my wiring Bosch 0280 220 008 - Leerlaufregler = Idle Control combined wiring harnesses for AC & CIS module will be tucked up in right corner removed the throttle body. Made it easier to access the water housing to redrill & add a 12x1.5mm Timesert for the ECT Lots of grease on the drill & tap, picks up the shavings ECT 0280 130 028 (VO 1…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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