Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,549 topics in this forum
-
- 11 replies
- 1.8k views
Hi all, I was wondering if anybody has experience with the Datsun-Parts LLC engines? here is an example http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-N42-F54-L28-Long-Block-Engine-2_W0QQitemZ400093875777QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5d27740e41
Last reply by NismoZ, -
-
- 3 replies
- 7.6k views
Hi all A few days ago I upgraded the alternator on my 240Z to a 60amp Bosch model from motorsports (www.zcarparts.com). The kit somes with a cap for the wiring harness to replace where it connected to the voltage regulator that bolts onto the fender. A few interesting things came of this, and I am hoping to get some feedback from you folks. After the install, when I turned the ignition to the "on" setting, before starting the engine, I heard a rapid clicking sound coming from the right rear of the car which wasn't there before. I checked and it was the electric fuel pump making the noise. If I reinstall the older voltage regulator, the clicking goes away. I don't know i…
Last reply by mayitin, -
- 5 replies
- 1.5k views
OK, so I got the car back together and went to drive it. There is a ticking noise coming from the rear somewhere, whether in gear or not. I put the car on jackstands, turned it on and put it in gear, to see if I could locate the sounds. Couldn't hear anything, but my left wheel wasn't really turning. Every second or two it woud rotate a tiny bit, and if I turned it with my hand, it felt like it wanted to go. Plus, the ticking noise is much louder when turning right, and almost nonexistant when turning left. When I was removing the left rear strut, I forgot to unbolt the axle from the hub at first. Is it possible that I pulled the axle partially out of the different…
Last reply by moritz55, -
- 20 replies
- 18k views
I'm looking for detailed pics of a truly stock 1971 engine... restored to stock is fine too. I am getting a 71 that I need to just get running before I consider upgrades to the engine and I want o be able to see what is missing or has been modified... These are pics of what I have... Thanks, Mark
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 7 replies
- 1.1k views
In the never ending restoration of 9070 I am looking for the soft lines that run from front of the hard lines from the AUTO trans to the radiator. My car had them but somewhere along the line someone cut them and just put a hose clamp on. I know it would work but would like to get the original lines but have not been able to find them. There are pix in the introduction section. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer. Richard.
Last reply by Richard Oben, -
MSD 6A ignition 1 2 3
by FastWoman- 28 replies
- 10.2k views
Hi all, So I bit the bullet and bought an MSD 6A ignition module to iron out the last of my weak ignition problems. I did a really nice installation, both electrically, and structurally. I tested it. It sparked when I jumped across the magnetic pickup leads -- a HARD spark that went ZZZIT. All good. Then I tried starting the engine. I got an initial fire, as I often do, and then nothing -- crank, crank, crank. Anyway, I'll be brief, 'cuz I know y'all must hate my long posts: MSD tech support was unable to tell me what polarity to hook up the magnetic pickup, other than to say to try both ways, and go with the one that gives the more retarded timing. I initia…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
I removed my head for reconditioning and I am in the process of replacing all exterior gaskets and putting everything back together. I need to re-install the head and I have a couple of questions about the crank position and cam position. My guide says that I must set the #1 cylinder to TDC. Can I set it without a dial indicator? When I got my head back it was re-assembled with the crank dowel in the 12 o'clock postion (more or less, see photo). In this position, the #2 exhaust valve is open and the #3 intake valve is open. My guide says that if the cam dowel is in the 12 o'clock postion then the #1 intake/exhaust valves should be closed, but it does not say which…
Last reply by motorman7, -
- 4 replies
- 1.3k views
I have done a fair amount of searching on here and Hybridz and still don't have a answer as to how well this set up works. Any feedback would be great. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...1%7C240%3A1318 It is going on a 280 2+2 3.1L with tripple webers. I would like any other input on any other ideas or opinions. I am not drag racing this thing but want to take it to a track day every once in a while.
Last reply by moritz55, -
- 10 replies
- 3.5k views
I'm trying to make arrangements to pick up a complete Turbo engine from an '83 ZX. My intention, once I get this new 'toy' home, is to put it up on an engine stand, however I can't seem to find any truly definitive threads (forgive the pun) about what the correct diameter and thread type ought to be. I've seen it suggested that one should use headbolts, but I don't exactly have that option ATM -- nor do I even know, again, what the diameter and pitch of those bolts are. I've gone to the hardware store and pre-emptively purchased some 10mm 1.25 (fine thread?) long flange bolts, grade 8.8 ... Is this what I need? I recall finding a thread where a gentleman had also purc…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 4 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi, I have searched and been unable to find a definitive answer to an issue I am having with my fuel tank. The gas tank fill port does not seem to go all the way into the rubber filler tube. It looks like it can go another 1/2 inch before it reaches the base of the port. I am fairly certain that it should go on further, but I wanted to see if anyone knew exactly how this is supposed to go on. Others have left it with a 1/2 inch gap and reported no problems, but it seems to me that the top of the gas tank will fit better against the underside of the body (specifically the curved bracket that is covered in rubber and welded to the underside of the body with the intent …
Last reply by zKars, -
- 12 replies
- 2k views
After removing the radiator hoses, I found pits on the aluminum inlet & outlet ports. Is there anything better than JB Weld to fill the pits? Anything that can be polished maybe? thxZ
Last reply by g9m3c, -
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
I have a 76 280z with a strange problem. All stock. It's a 4 speed manual but I can start the car just by turning the ignition. I don't even have to press the clutch. I recently had the master, slave clutch cylinder and the alternator replaced. I noticed the problem after installing the new alternator. Anyone know what the problem is?
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.