Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,547 topics in this forum
-
- 277 replies
- 103.6k views
My great rally adventure in my Z would not be complete without a healthy dose of drivable HP. When I decided to rebuild my engine, I had originally planned on doing it myself. I have build up many engines, but none of the 'L' variety. I had vast experience with V8's, but the L was a bit different. And there were some finesse items I had read about in all the rebuild books. I called around and not many people had experience near me in doing high quality L series head work and I just did not want to trust my original L24 to anybody. So I took this opportunity to call around and find out who was who when it came to rebuilding L series engines. I started with Rebello …
Last reply by Diseazd, -
-
- 16 replies
- 87.8k views
I bought a 280z a few weeks ago and it started up and ran fine. There was water visible in the radiator when I got it home, and the oil was clear. Now after replacing the water with antifreeze and water, I have found I have a blown head gasket as shown from no liquid in the radiator and a milky oil color. Now my car won't start. I can't figure out why it won't start aside from the leaky head gasket. I'm going to try and seal it with some gunk you put in the radiator that will hopefully seal the leak from the inside. Any ideas?
Last reply by kensval, -
- 480 replies
- 52.7k views
I have been fighting this for over a year, and now I must surrender to the Z Gods on this board. I am at a loss of what to do next. What I am running? 1971 240Z with 71000 miles. Stock engine with MSA header and 2.5" exhaust Z therapy rebuilt carbs (about 1000 miles ago installed), ran great when bolted up Advance distributors Rebuild OEM dizzy recurved to Eurpoean specs (static timing at idle 13 Deg BTDC, at 3000 rpm I am 32 deg BTDC) I do run a vacuum advance on top of that. New NGK resistor style plugs, but car had problem with new NGK non resistor plugs New Pertonix installed in dizzy, and new flamethrower coil. I have rebalanced the carbs and I am currently almost a…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 4 followers
- 42 replies
- 46.3k views
I really need to change out the gear oil in my 5 speed transmission and differential. From what i can make out in the owners manual the transmission takes GL-4 and differential GL-5. I cant make sense of what weight oil i should use.
Last reply by zdude1967, -
- 16 followers
- 159 replies
- 46k views
So a little background on my ignition system before I get into this post. I changed my OEM ignition system about 2 years ago and decided to go with the Mallory Unilite distributor (mechanical advance only), as well as an MSD 6AL system. Despite the many reports of the robustness of the Mallory electronic unit, I have never had an issue with mine, although I also installed the recommended "power supply filter" from Mallory as well. Despite that I always did carry a spare electronic unit. I also had to utilize Mallory's Active Tach adapter to get my OEM tach to work correctly over the RPM range. All in all I was pretty happy with this setup, and my car ran very well,…
Last reply by JohnnyWas, -
- 21 replies
- 45.3k views
I ordered the tune-up kit from MSA for my car. I expected (assumed?) to receive BPR6ES spark plugs with the kit, but got BP6ES plugs. Now I understand that the BP6ES are what are called for in the FSM, but I also like simple pleasures like static-free radio reception and clear cell phone communication. I know all of the benefits of using resistor plugs. Are there disadvantages? Why in this modern age of electronics would I WANT to use a non-resistor plug in my car.
Last reply by djwarner, -
- 18 replies
- 41.8k views
The FSM says leave the transmission attached but I'm trying to do as much as I can by myself so I was thinking about removing the tranny first then the motor. Any advice will be appreciated.
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 15 followers
- 284 replies
- 39.5k views
I bought a f54/P79 zx motor about a year ago. Paid 200$ for a motor that came from a running car that had 110K miles-DEAL! I was just wanting a L28 block with flat tops so I could put my e88 head on when I was done messing with my L24. The bores looked great and it all cleaned up well. Had the block tanked and a ball hone on the cylinders. They magnafluxed the block and measured out the bores for me to check specs, all was good. 120$ At this time, I wasn't planning on using the P79, so I sold it off for 150$ Since my L24 project is going so badly, I thought I might try and work the L28 at the same time and use whatever engine is done first. But was headless. Alway…
Last reply by 240z70, -
I have done the search but I am still up in the air as to which header to buy. I need to replace the rusted header on my '71 240Z as well. The car's motor is stock & running the SU's. I have asked several knowledgable Z people and I have been given several opinions. 1) Price no object 1 3/8" or 1 1/2" Stahl header (Pretty much universally the best but it is $775 plus shipping) 2) 1 5/8" Nissan Motorsport header either chromed or unplated (ceramic coating extra) The opinions vary on whether the chrome will last or rust. I am leaning towards getting an unplated one and ceramic coating it. 3) MSA ceramic coated header (I have one of their coated headers + their alumi…
Last reply by jmark, -
- 3 followers
- 39 replies
- 37.2k views
I was going over some options on how to get as much HP out of the L28. What kind of modifications to the L28 can be made without major engine work or overhaul (such as boring the engine or replacing it). Would anyone here suggest putting in an exhaust turbo or intercooler for the L28; or would this just be a waste of time? The stock L28 hp says 170hp at 5400rpm; and I was curious if this engine could push more than that? I like the idea of getting as much power out of the L28 as possible; and even considered throwing a 280zx turbo in my car; although I would prefer to keep it stock, and see how much I can squeeze out of the stock hardware (engine/trans).
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
Are there any internal diff? Outside i know there was a 2400 on the early z but is there any reason you cant swap all of the covers as you please?
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 3 followers
- 247 replies
- 35.3k views
I placed the order for a Rebello 3.0 so at some point a mostly complete motor will be brought home to swap into my running car. I have done motor swaps on other vehicles but I am not a professional mechanic, what could I be forgetting? Heres my current list in no particular order: Have gaskets on hand for valve cover, water pump, intake/exhaust Lots of engine brite for cleaning empty engine bay and transmission label wires and tubes fluids for new motor clutch? oil change for manual transmission repaint engine bay replace battery tray New fuel lines Beer, bbq and weekend with friends I have left off the plug wires, cap/rotor, belt and water hoses because they have alr…
Last reply by Kurbycar32,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.