Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,549 topics in this forum
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- 3 followers
- 13 replies
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I received a manifold gasket order from OEM Parts Haus, ebay seller. worst experience buying a part EVER! Issue: they shipped my manifold gasket in bubble wrap; just threw the uncardboxed gasket in bubble wrap and shipped it to me. Bizzaro. Who does that?! so yeah the gasket was all jacked up and unuseable. The owner gave me this run-around about email not working blah blah blah. he didnt really seem to care. I say buyer BEWARE of ordering from this seller on eBay. Sent from my LG-D850 using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by FreshZ, -
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Hey guys, I purchased a couple Z's a few weeks ago, and plan to attempt to get them running over the holiday weekend. Does anyone have any suggestions on things I should do before I attempt to start them. One hasn't been started in about a year or so. The other hasn’t been registered for 15 years, but not sure when it was last run, hopefully not 15 years ago, but could be. If it's been that long should I even try to start it? Here is what I was thinking I will probably do, in about this order: Get some fresh gas in it. Verify it has needed fluids, oil, coolant. Pull the plugs and check for major problems Pour a little oil in each cylinder Try to turn the motor ove…
Last reply by jackboxxx, -
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In the FSM, it gives valve specs for "cold" and then for "hot." Question is, if valve clearance is set with the engine cold is it necessary to to re-set with the engine hot? I've talked to several mechanic friends who all disagree, some say set cold an forget others say set it only when hot and others set when cold and re-check when hot. This is not something I want to do several times.
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Ok, I pulled engine and trany out of the parts car today so I can take it to machine shop and have work done to it. Got the block all nice and stripped for the shop so the work will take less time. Everything looked good, nothing to bad. Did break an exhaust stud off in the head on number 1 cyl. That was the only bad thing that happened today. Guess I will get it drilled out while its at the shop. What I did notice is that there is a stamp on my crank that says P30. Wondering if any one knows what this is? I'm guessing it would be a part number..
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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Is it possible to order a new bell housing for my 4 speed? Does anyone know of a place that they might carry it? This is really just for cosmetic reasons so that when I put in my engine in the bell housing will look new as well. Thanks
Last reply by hls30.com, -
- 4 followers
- 4 replies
- 884 views
Not sure if leaking from the oil pan or transmission
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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I am pulling an engine out of the parts car I have in the yard. Knowing I want to rebuild it for street racing (To kill ricers, Mustangs, Camaros ECT) I have come up with a small plan to get what I want. I am looking for some advice from anyone who wants to give it. Ok my plan starts like this. Non EGR FI L28 block N42 head 5 Speed trany For the L28 block I plan on doing a couple of things. 1. Decking the block 2. Flat top pistons 3. Polish underside of the block (supposed to be better oil flow this way) 4. New rod bolts 5. New bearings, seals, oil components, water pump, timing chain ECT. For the N42 head I want to 1. Port and polish 2. Bigger valves 3. New valve t…
Last reply by nwcubsman, -
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Hey all, i was just wondering where i can find gaskets for these "banjos". i don't know if that's what you call them cause that's what someone said it was. hah well if anyone knows a general place to get them please reply, thanks.
Last reply by 240ZX, -
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I have the timeing set by ear and its not perfect. The problem is im missing the timeing marker the little one that mounts on the right side.The thing is it has the one on the driver side.i dont understand y 2 and whate it the one for.
Last reply by john mcgarvie, -
- 2 followers
- 52 replies
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A little background. I picked up my 71 240 last summer for a new hobby. It is not a DD, race car or show car in the near future. One of the reasons I bought it was to do a complete tear down and assembly on a fairly simple engine. I pulled the motor and have torn down, cleaned, re-finished most all parts and I'm ready to re-assemble. I have learned a lot and have a much more through understanding of how the engine works and how modifications impact all aspects of performance. Knowing what I know now I do want to eventually have the block and head professionally machined with all new or machined components. However, at this point in my new hobby I've about hit my sp…
Last reply by Trnelson, -
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I'm reassembling my '70 Z engine after overhaul and am finding conflicting values for the head bolt torquing. It has an E31 head, with engine block #005953. I purchased new head bolts from Nissan. Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild your Nissan..." gives 61 ft-lbs. The Henley Shop Manual gives 47 ft-lbs. The Clymer Manual says on L24's up to block number 27000 or so (I'm going from memory since I'm out of town and don't have the manual with me) that the torque is 51 ft-lbs. Has anyone run up against this before? Any ideas? Thanks. Terry '70 240Z #3212
Last reply by kinfish, -
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I own a 70z (6/70 manufacture date) in very good shape, except the engine uses alot of oil. High miles, but the odometer is not actual. I am weighing the pros and cons of rebuilding this engine, or replacing it with a Jasper remanufactured engine. I'm interested in all your opinions! I lean towards the Jasper option because of the 36 month, 72 K mile warranty. Thanks, Erik:confused:
Last reply by jcdozier,
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