Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,431 topics in this forum
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- 7 followers
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I hope to make this a Sticky (Mike!!) I want to Document every S30 style combo and Turn Signal Switch. I need every one to see what is already posted and add to this Thread if you don't see your style of switches. With any luck, anyone can pick up a switch out of a box of parts and be able to cross reference it here and know exactly what they have. I am now in possesion of over 80+ switches that I would like to start rebuilding for people and customers. Only problem is that there are so many styles that I am not totally sure of what is what. So PLEASE remove 4 screws from the steering column cover, take off the top and bottom covers and......... Take a picture of....…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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- 19 followers
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I took the plunge and purchased LEDs to replace the exterior lights, except for the plate lights. So far I replaced all but the lights under the bumper. I'll probably get to those this weekend. I did check the current flow with the LEDs, and it is now 2.6A. I didn't measure the current before the switch, but I estimated it to be approximately 7.9A. (For the record, I was expecting about 2.9A at this point of changing out the lights.) I purchased all of the bulbs from Superbright LEDs. Here is what I selected for my 260Z Front side markers - 67-A9 Rear side markers - 67-R9 Rear stop/tail 1157-R12 Rear turn 1156-R12 Rear tail 67-R9 Front turn 1157-A12 Reverse lights 67-W9 L…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
1978 280Z - Won't restart when hot, all interior gauges, fan motor, backlighting not working 1 2 3 4 17
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Hey there everyone. I'm currently trying to iron out some issues with my car, and if anyone would be kind enough to lend me their advice and insight, I would be very grateful! Huge thanks to @SteveJ for encouraging me to post here! I've got a new to me 1978 280Z (five speed manual) that I am trying to get back on the road. Body wise it seems to be in great shape and overall it seems to be mechanically complete. However, I am having some issues with the interior gauges not functioning. Here is the state of that: *No functionality on any gauge except volt meter - Oil, water, fuel, tach, clock. - None of them are functional. *No functionality of turn signal…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 11 followers
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Back in 2014 I purchased a set of fusible links from my local Nissan dealer. They sourced the parts from Coutesy Nissan. Wayne is buzy with an update of his electrical diagram and this was a point of discussion. Im not sure if they changed the colors, but the set I received is: 1x Black p/n: 24161-A0100 (YAZAKIFLWX-1.25) 1x Green p/n: 24161-28500 (YAZAKIFLWX-0.5) 2x Brown p/n: 24161-Y0100 (FTX-0.3) In (brackets) are codes on the link insulation. The brown have a different number compared to the manual,. They are brown instead of the original red. That could explain the different part number. Refering to the parts manual en Waynes color…
Last reply by DHA280Z, -
- 15 followers
- 180 replies
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I posted this in someone elses thread, but decided to start a new one here. It may be useful for other members having problems with the TIU. These systems are getting old and starting to fail more often than not. A couple of months ago I had problems with water in the fuel system. After cleaning it all out, draining the tank replacing the fuel filter the engine ran normal again. When I took it for a drive I was lucky to limp back home with the engine coughing and backfiring. Went through the EFI bible test and found some poor soldering joints on the aftermarket injector connectors and some minor things. It still would not run right once it warmed up. It was great cold, b…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
Almost two years ago, I got my dream car. A classic Datsun Z!(77 280 EFI) After trial and error working on it trying to figure out why it would not run for longer then twenty minutes I finally just pulled the motor. Blown Piston rings, crappy injectors, and after some financial issues, I finally got to finish up my rebuild this past winter. Motor is in, trans is in. My car does not work.. at all. Everything worked before the pull, now something is toasted. I have no lights, no electrical power what so ever. New batt, new cables, new terminals, new EGI relay, new ignition control module, still no juice. While testing theories the other day with a wire jumper to test connec…
Last reply by RyuZ32, -
- 5 followers
- 131 replies
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Hello everyone I had a question about voltage. I am a newbie when it comes to wiring and electrical but I did my research and read the forums. I have a 1977 280z and it looks like someone’s been in there trying to figure out the issue. Missing bolts etc. anyways with my multimeter I tested the coil and the resistor and voltage. the voltage was off.. well there was none with the key on the on position, testing on the first terminal on the resistor. so this is what I checked, I went to the battery and checked the cables those are good, car turns over. I looked at the wiring diagram and found the black and white wire that leads to the ignition relay. That…
Last reply by 280zdude, -
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I am sure members are aware that in my list of projects to bring my restored 72 to the next level I wanted to find a NOS bullet tip antenna. That has proven to be difficult but in my quest members donated or sold me donor antennas:D for parts and I was able to find enough good parts to complete a restoration of an antenna which is the next best thing. The finishing touch came when a member offered me a NOS mast. I hope the following will help other members in the position of wanting a good working original antenna.
Last reply by Gav240z, -
- 8 followers
- 119 replies
- 7.3k views
Well, I finally have the car running but now it appears I have an electrical issue. When the battery has a full charge the car starts just fine but the alternator gauge has a slight negative reading. After running for a bit and shutting it off, the car tries to start but since it has been running on the battery there's not enough spark. I have a brand new alternator that clearly isn't charging the battery when the car is running. Any suggestions as to what the problem could be?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 follower
- 108 replies
- 24k views
With any luck, We can all get together on this forum and figure out the weak dash light-hot fuse problems we all seem to be dealing with. I wrote in my "headlight relay upgrade harness's for sale" forum, that I upgraded all my EXTERNAL lights to L.E.D.'s. These lights use almost 1/10 of the power of conventional light bulbs. Have a running life of about 100,000 hours which rounds out to about 10 years of constantly being on, which could also equate to about the lifetime of the owner with general usage. So.. if your lights are on for (2) hours a day, every single day of the year, they would still last for over 169 years. Which is good arguement for the price of the L.E.…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
Hello all! I have been going through my project car, attempting to document and plan all the work ahead of me. I have examined the body, interior, engine and last weekend finally took a good look at my Zed's wiring. It's in decent shape, but has been hacked a bit and painted over (possibly several times). I've done a few searches here and at Hybrid Z and have noticed that there are not many wiring/re-wiring options available to us (Painless aside). I work as an electronics technician and do wiring repairs and replacements quite frequently and, as such, have been considering re-doing the wiring on my car. I know many people swap engines, add fuel injection, aftermark…
Last reply by ZXDragon, -
Like the title says, I've given up. Over the past 2 years or so, I've wasted a pile of time trying to get electronic ignition into my 240Z. And I've failed. I could never get anything working well enough that I could be happy with it. I've tried two different ZX distributors, a total of three different E12-80 modules, a Pertronix ignitor in the stock 240Z distributor, and four different coils (original 240Z, original ZX, new aftermarket ZX & 3.0Ω Pertronix). It's worth noting that all three of the distributors I've tried had good vacuum advance units and no slop in the shaft bushings. Good, solid dizzies. I've fought pinging from bad advance curves, ignition washout a…
Last reply by Arne,
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