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My Engine Build

This is a discussion on My Engine Build within the Engine and Drivetrain (S30) forums, part of the 1st Generation Z (S30) category; I am going to chronicle my start to finish engine rebuild, engine bay refresh, engine swap and finally performance in ...


  1. #1
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Default My Engine Build

    I am going to chronicle my start to finish engine rebuild, engine bay refresh, engine swap and finally performance in this thread.

    I am pulling out my NA 280Z motor for a 280ZXT motor swap.

    Bought a 1983 280zx Turbo parts car with hydraulic cam.

    Goal: 250-270 rwhp on OE ECU with mechanical fuel and boost enhancements.
    Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
    Manual Boost Adjuster
    FMIC
    Bell Engineering Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator
    3" Exhaust

    I was having a friend of mine rebuild the 165k 280zx engine in Austin, but the engine just sat there since March. He had some family issues come up so I hauled it back to Houston Wednesday. I put it on the stand last night and took a few hours creating a mess of my garage. I removed the head. I spun the block around took off the oil pan and removed all the rods caps and pushed out the pistons and rods.

    I am going to try to rebuild this engine myself. I feel this puts me in the upper echelon of "shade tree" mechanic, all while working in the confines of my not so shade tree air conditioned garage here in southeast Texas.

    Here is what I found after getting oily last night.

    Rod journals look flawless.My Engine Build-280z-motor-swap-013.jpg

    Still have some cross hatching in the cylinder bores,My Engine Build-280z-motor-swap-016.jpgothers look pretty bad.My Engine Build-280z-motor-swap-009.jpg Not sure I will get away with just a hone.

    I am doing a swap from the hard to find hydraulic lifter set up to the traditional lash adjuster style. I am going to have the machine shop handle the head work. I hope to minimize milling on the head as not to distort tolerances between the good used stock cam I am using and the lash pads etc. Here are some random pictures. My Engine Build-280z-motor-swap-008.jpgMy Engine Build-280z-motor-swap-019.jpg The eerie glow of Sea Foam Deep Creep and Oil burning away after having to use MAPP Gas and my 750 ft lbs. IR Air Impact to get out one of the middle head bolts!My Engine Build-280z-motor-swap-007.jpg

    Rented a balancer puller and plan on taking the timing cover, chain and crank out tonight.

    Will be working with Andrew "ZCurves" shortly to put all new EFI and engine harness connectors on the turbo harness.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Good luck with the manual boost controller and the RRFPR. I've still not seen anyone report that this method gave a civilized upgrade. Boost can be increased without blowing up the engine, but there always seems to be other problems that crop up. Interested in how it turns out.

    When you say "OE ECU", do you mean OE NA 1977, or OE turbo 83?

  3. #3
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Should have stated OE Turbo ECU. Looking to run about 11 PSI of boost. Factory was 7.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zed Head View Post
    Good luck with the manual boost controller and the RRFPR. I've still not seen anyone report that this method gave a civilized upgrade. Boost can be increased without blowing up the engine, but there always seems to be other problems that crop up. Interested in how it turns out.

    When you say "OE ECU", do you mean OE NA 1977, or OE turbo 83?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  4. #4
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    How does one remove the rear main seal main bearing cap! Beating on it with a rubber shot hammer will only wiggle it back and forth. Main cap between 3 and 4 holes was a PITA too but got it off. Please help with rear!
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Monroe's "How To Rebuild..." book says to put a bolt in the threaded hole in the cap, lay a 2x4 on the block, then put a pry bar under the bolt head and pry it up and out.

    It's a good book to get, if you don't already have it.

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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    I second that book and the nice folks on this forum. I rebuilt a whole motor reading that book and asking opinions on here. I sat that book on the towel rack in front of the toilet so it was always fresh, it's step by step and unlike most books he doesn't ever say "Do the reverse of step # so and so". It's $20 at amazon.com.

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Got it! Just so happened to have a big machine screw that fit in the main cap. Drilled a hole in some 3/4x3/4 square tubing that was 3 feet long, one foot on the engine stand and out she came.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zed Head View Post
    Monroe's "How To Rebuild..." book says to put a bolt in the threaded hole in the cap, lay a 2x4 on the block, then put a pry bar under the bolt head and pry it up and out.

    It's a good book to get, if you don't already have it.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    YOu rock man! Keep it up!!
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  9. #9
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    Was on vacation back up in the Midwest and not much to report on. I did drop off my block, head, crank, rods, piston, intake, and exhaust manifolds to "Ted's Machine Shop" in Conroe, TX. Personally I am always a little leery of shops who do not see these motors too often as I suspect most don't. I did feel better when talking to them about putting in my good used cam and changing over from a hydraulic adjustment to a lash adjusted cam on the P90A head. I said I had an extra set of cam towers and the manager said this. "When they align bored those cam towes for the cam at the factory they were torqued to spec on the head at that point, it can some times be tough to get mismatched or cam towers from another head to work as well." All of what he said I know to be true and made me feel a hell of a lot better. Should hear back from the shop some time this week. I think they are only going to charge around $200 for a complete head job. I feel this is very fair. Stay tuned.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  10. #10
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Update: Head is toast. They tried to tig weld some corrosion from electrolysis but it was thin enough they poked a hole into a water jacket underneath a valve spring! Trying to source a bare P90 or P79 from some guys over on hybrid z. Meanwhile the block is good and only need a hone. Rods were good. Crank has been polished. They won't rebuild my shortblock because 1) they don't use customer supplied parts (understandable: however I am getting most all of my parts for free) 2) to warranty motors they insist on boring them, yet they say mine doesn't need to be bored, I found this odd.

    Regardless I will probably be taking to the short block myself. Big step in the automotive Jedi master world. Never have put an engine together.

    Zcurves has my Turbo harness and is installing new connectors for me. That is all for now!
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Ben, are you part of the Houston Z club? I work in Spring and live in Conroe if you need an extra hand with your rebuild.

  12. #12
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Does anyone have any past experience painting a block? The block is degreased and all but there is some surface rust and of course the OE paint. I took a wire wheel on a drill and removed what flaking paint there was. I also got a lot of rust off the block, but naturally there is some left. The machine shop put in steel freeze plugs not brass so I am forced to paint them unfortunately. How crazy do I have to get on getting the block clean? Seems to me any OE paint that is in good shape should be left well enough alone and can be painted over? How about rust in the nooks and crannies? Should I POR 15 the block first maybe then paint it? Is POR 15 good with heat? Is this overkill? I bought VHT engine block paint.

    I THINK I might be able to get the block in my www.barrelblaster.com barrel blaster, but I am worried even using glass bead and even not directly hitting the cylinder walls or block deck I may affect sealing with the rings and head gasket. Thoughts?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  13. #13
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    More bad news: Got my empty head from some guy in San Antonio. Called the machine shop, it was warped something fierce. They shaved it some but said it needs as much as .040 taken off. They were going to heat it up and bolt it down over the weekend to try to straighten it. Not sure what this would do to my C.R. trying to add boost with the stock Tandy 1000 ECU? Going to paint my block this week.

    Got rings, bearings, gaskets and seals and some other ancillaries on the way for the short block.

    The set backs are wearing me down financially but more so mentally.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Ben, hope you didn't pay too much for it. I know you're down now but it will get better. I have never re-built a Z engine yet but have done lots of other sixes and v8's. When you build your own you take on all the jobs, stress and ripoffs that the engine builder normally takes on. You are still saving lots of money as long as you truly know what you are getting into !
    Think of yourself as a private contractor, you are jobbing out the stuff that you can't do, valve guides, honing, boring,
    shaving. BUT you must know what needs to be done, no one else is seeing the engine through to the end product but you.
    Starting the engine up for the first time is an exciting experience but you have to have done your homework.
    Good luck, I'm looking forward to this build!
    Chris

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    Use ospho or any other phosphoric acid on the external block rust, wash off after 24hrs with a mild solvent then paint with engine block paint.

    it is good to get an off-the shelf paint so that you can tough-up years down the road. Do not por the block
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Called the machine shop, head has been true'd. Looking for 1 intake valve that was bad (interesting). Picking up my rings, bearings, and gasket kit on Thursday hopefully. ZCurves loaned me his "How to Rebuild your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" book, have been skimming through that. I am sure it is in there but can anyone tell me of the little notches on the tops of the piston go towards the front or the rear of the engine?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue View Post
    Use ospho or any other phosphoric acid on the external block rust, wash off after 24hrs with a mild solvent then paint with engine block paint.

    it is good to get an off-the shelf paint so that you can tough-up years down the road. Do not por the block
    I have a little flash rust on the casting. A friend gave me some two part epoxy primer that I am going to lay down with the gun first and then paint with VHT satin black engine paint. I will post some before and after shots.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    If you are thinking of going original colour, you might want to investigate http://www.datsunparts.com/1255

    Good luck with the rebuild. We all go through hard patches when restoring
    I bought a maxima tranny and it was worse then what i already had. 5th gear was stuffed. Im afraid thats the risks you take.

    Looking forward to seeing the finished result.

  19. #19
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Did one final degrease wipe down, epoxy primed and painted the block tonight. I did tear off my tape after I took these pictures, and did miss one little spot on the casting because of tape application error. (DAMN!) I used a PPG epoxy primer, hopefully this will bond well with the multi substrate, i.e. old paint and bare metal. I used VHT engine paint in GM satin black. I think this will look very subtle with the cast aluminum head and when I refinish the turbo valve cover with the wrinkle paint. Sort of wish the engine shop would have put in brass freeze plugs, but such is life. I have not made up my mind up yet on whether to paint the intake or media blast it clean and maybe just clear coat the bare aluminum. The VHT can said to paint below 60% humidity (!) Good luck with that Mr. Paint Manufacturer in Houston between April and ? Well enough with the BS, here is the Intro of a 25 chapter book. My Engine Build-img_0001.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0002.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0003.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0004.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0005.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0010.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0011.jpg
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  20. #20
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    No turning back now. If I can get done doing crap around the house I am going to start scuffing the engine bay, removing rust where I can, and POR 15'ing where I can't.My Engine Build-img_0058.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0059.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0060.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0061.jpg

    I want to have the car running again by Thanksgiving, one can only hope.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Default You missed a spot...

    You missed a spot...right ...there..

    Looks like licorice. It will look great inside the clean, repainted engine compartment.
    Andrew (ZCurves)
    1978 Coupe - HLS30-440105
    Spring, Texas USA

    pro deo et patria
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    Ben, get out of the habit of laying parts/tools on the fender! You're making dings, dents and waves that will have to be dealt with as part of your paint project!!
    Andrew (ZCurves)
    1978 Coupe - HLS30-440105
    Spring, Texas USA

    pro deo et patria
    My Albumz

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    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Man, you read my mind! I was just looking in horror at those sockets on the fender.

    If a hummingbird feather lands on fender it can dent.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Black looks good on an engine and I did the por-15 paint-no regrets-EXCEPT, when you have any oil leaks, it's much harder to see them or where they originate with a black engine. But you won't have any leaks

    Looking good!
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Those fenders have more dimples than a post menapausel 65 year old mother of 4 in a two piece. A few more at this point won't matter until she goes in for plastic surgery aka the repaint.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Supporting Member EuroDat's Avatar
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    Zcurves advies on the fenders is spot on. Even leaning on them wil dent the crap out of them I learnt the hard way. Luckly the car needed repaintng.
    Your project is looking good. Looking forward to see how you go with the L28 ZXT upgrade. Dont forget to step back, take a moment and enjoy what you are creating

  27. #27
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Well my engine bay is damn near empty and I spent about 1 hour destroying my wife's kitchen sponges with the green scrubber backing scrubbing my engine bay. I was quite surprised how well that with some dish soap made the engine bay look a lot better. I got my single stage DuPont Nason paint, unfortunately my customer I got it from gave me Acrylic Enamel, which is crap. I am going to shoot it anyhow since it is the engine bay. I am going to spend tomorrow with my posterior parked on the engine cross member using red scotch brite pads scuffing it all down. Wax and degrease one more time and then tape it off for paint on Sunday. Por 15 for the rust, followed by Dupont Epoxy primer and then top coat. Then I get to put all this crap back in! YAY!
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  28. #28
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Default Started Engine Build. Have some questions and concerns.

    Seeing as this is my first engine I have ever built I have some concerns.

    1) I did get the "nails" in from the Fel Pro kit but felt the instructions on the "How to" book were wrong and his way was holding me from getting them seated. He said to put the chamfered side towards the block so that the sharp side does not dig into the seal. After trying to force it in and bending the nails I turned them so the tapered side was going along the rubber and that helped a lot. It also took me about 20 minutes to work all of this out. Will this engine leak oil live a sieve?

    2) See pictures. One of the main cap bearings is sticking out past the main cap saddle. I did this when I plastigaged all the caps and I rechecked it for alignment in the saddle before final install with no difference. Should this be something to be worried about? I checked for end play and could not get the .007 feeler between the thrust bearing and crank. I tried the .002 as stated in the rebuild book but it is so flimsy I wasn't sure if it was in there or not. Crank spins freely.

    3) I notice that the rear main seal is not riding totally parallel to the back of the block will this leak? It is not that bad. My Engine Build-main-bearing-towards-front.jpgMy Engine Build-main-bearing-towards-rear.jpg
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    That is strange, you shouldnt be able to see the bearing protruding out of the main bearing cap. Sounds like its not positioned in the centre. Is it showing on both sides of the main bearing cap? One main bearing is used for thrust alignment. If its to tight it will not get enough lubrication, overheat and wearout quickly.
    I would dismantle and start again. The bearing shells should fit the caps and be if anything a fraction smaller than the cap, but not wider.
    Are you sure the bearings are correct for a L-series motor?

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Yes that one picture shows (hard to see I know) the bearing being completely flush with the main saddle towards the front of the engine. All plastigage marks were equal across all main caps including this one when I checked them all.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Just a couple of questions. I still trying to figure out why the shell is sticking out one side. Sounds like they are the right diameter. You checked it with plastigage and its turning freely.

    1. Are the bearing shells in the right section?
    By this I mean; are the shell halfs with groove and a hole in the block section and not in the cap. The hole should line up with the drilling in the block. This lubricates the journal and the connecting rod for the piston next to it.

    2. Do you still have the old bearing shells to compare? Check if they are the same width.

    3. The thrust bearing is on nr: 4 bearing in the centre. Can you insert the feelergauge in one side of the thrust bearing?
    Assuming the bearing thats protruding out one side is pushing the crankshaft against the thrust bearing.

    4. An extra check would be to remove the crankshaft and install the bearing cap with the bearing shells and see if its aligning correctly. The two halfs should meet exactly and not staggered.

    Hope this helps you. Keep us posted. It will be interesting to hear what the problem is.

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    Just a couple of questions. I still trying to figure out why the shell is sticking out one side. Sounds like they are the right diameter. You checked it with plastigage and its turning freely.

    1. Are the bearing shells in the right section?
    By this I mean; are the shell halfs with groove and a hole in the block section and not in the cap. The hole should line up with the drilling in the block. This lubricates the journal and the connecting rod for the piston next to it.

    Yes, I have the shells with the oil hole on the block and not on the main caps.

    2. Do you still have the old bearing shells to compare? Check if they are the same width.
    No unfortunately I do not.

    3. The thrust bearing is on nr: 4 bearing in the centre. Can you insert the feelergauge in one side of the thrust bearing?
    Assuming the bearing thats protruding out one side is pushing the crankshaft against the thrust bearing.

    Yes the thrust bearing is on the center main. I tried to pry the crank forward with a pry bar and checked for crankshaft run out. A .007 feeler according to the "how to" book would not fit. It said to check it with .002 and if that is too tight you need to skim the thrust bearing with some sandpaper. I couldn't get the .002 in there, but I really think it is because a .002 feeler is about as thick as aluminum foil, it bend so easily I wouldn't be able to tell.

    4. An extra check would be to remove the crankshaft and install the bearing cap with the bearing shells and see if its aligning correctly. The two halfs should meet exactly and not staggered.

    Hope this helps you. Keep us posted. It will be interesting to hear what the problem is.
    If the bearing wasn't aligned with the saddle perfectly towards the front I would know what the problem is, but since it is I do not know. I am thinking about taking off two main caps and comparing the width of the bearings. Mayb that cap is narrower for some reason?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    I cant remember the caps being different in thickness. The only shells that are different are the nr 4 thrust bearing. I tossed the old ones i had when I cleaned up the shed. Its puzzling to say the least, because it almost impossable to mount them incorrectly and still get the crankshaft to turn freely. Im going from memory and the FSM which aint much help in this situation.
    Anyone else got any ideas???

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Default Painted the engine bay

    I painted the engine bay tonight. Talk about testing my patience.

    1) Wet sanded some of the epoxy primer where the orange peel was the worst.

    2) Jacked up car and put on jack stands to make life easier. (Was actually laying on my stomach and painting up to the trans tunnel and the frame at one point, all in my driveway. Neighbors must think I am crazy)

    3) Loaded up Andrew Streckfuss's ZCurves touch up paint gun and went at it. Using a touch up paint gun rocks for an engine bay

    4) Bumped the fan adjustment knob and proceeded to put runs where? On the fire wall of course, not underneath the battery tray where it would never be seen.

    5) Missed some water left over from wet sanding and proceeded to blow the water out with the paint gun and into my fresh silver on top of the core support.

    6) Go to reload the paint gun and one of the hooks on this siphon unit snaps off! Curing paint and my other paint gun is still tore down from the primer spray!

    7) Put my gun together and load up the cup and go at it. Unfortunately my paint gun was bought my a deceased friend who used it to paint concrete pump trucks, so using it in an engine bay is like brushing your cats teeth with a toilet brush.

    8) Painting around the brake diverter valve and master cylinder is a PITA and leads to some more runs.

    So you are thinking. "Damn Ben you are worthless and shouldn't even own a paint gun!" This is true to a certain degree.

    Did I mention I had 1) Never sprayed silver. 2) Never sprayed single stage paint?

    Actually my biggest concern is when I have the car painted on the outside will be the color match. This is supposed to be Paint Code 306, but damn it is darker! Mind you the last time my car was painted was 1979. Could the paint have faded that much? Operator error? Bad paint mix? All the above? I actually love the color, but the pros are going to have to try to match it when I plan on getting it repainted next year. Oh well here are the pictures.

    My Engine Build-img_0032.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0033.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0034.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0035.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0036.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0037.jpg

    All in all when I fix my water spots in the paint and if I can attempt to wet sand out my runs which subsided quite a bit when the paint flashed; and given my working conditions I will rate my paint job a 7.5. I really don't think the color mismatch is really my fault. Maybe you guys who have had cars painted versus 30 year old paint can provide some insight.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Hey Ben,
    Reading you horror story I almost didnt want to look at the photos. When I did I was pleased to see it turn out very nice. Pity about the runs on the firewall. Tipical how those things always happen at the worsed possible moments, I guess. I can't see them on the photo so they are not that bad and once the engine is back in it won't be that notacable.
    My car was blue 305, but someone painted it red (badly) so I will need to remove it completly. The blue was faded. I can see a difference between under the hood and by the reserve wheel. The wheel area is darker "grey" in colour and under th hood has a "white" look to it.
    pS: Nice to see you still got a sence of humour after it

  36. #36
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Here is a question. My car had some what I believe to be factory runs in the paint on the strut towers. Does anyone else have these? I wet sanded them out for the most part, but they almost ran 2/3 of the way down to the frame.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Supporting Member EuroDat's Avatar
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    Runs yes, buts I havent seen them on the strut towers yet. My car has runs (in original blue) under the top door hinge on the drivers door frame. Hard to see until you take the front fenders off. I think they came with the extra options package

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    I went out to the garage last night and checked the run out on the crank again. My .002 feeler definitely fit between the center thrust bearing and the crank, so it passes. I don't know whether to run with it or not. I am going to mike the crank caps width and see if that cap is narrower for some reason. I am also going to find my old bearings if possible.
    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    I cant remember the caps being different in thickness. The only shells that are different are the nr 4 thrust bearing. I tossed the old ones i had when I cleaned up the shed. Its puzzling to say the least, because it almost impossable to mount them incorrectly and still get the crankshaft to turn freely. Im going from memory and the FSM which aint much help in this situation.
    Anyone else got any ideas???
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  39. #39
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    I had a relative take a look at my bearing issue last night and he said "run with it". A .020 feeler gauge will fit between the bearing sticking out and the journal next to it. In my opinion with the thrust bearing doing its job there is no way it could hit that bearing.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    I got the answer to this question from my machine shop today. #1 and #7 bearings are wider than 2,3,5,6. My wider bearing is currently on #2 so I am going to move it to the #1 spot. I think I got lucky and the other wide one is on #7, because none of the other are sticking past. I will check one more time. The machine shop doesn't feel this will matter because the thrust bearing is less than .007 and I could fit a .020 feeler gauge between that wider bearing on #2 and the journal for the throw for the rod.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Supporting Member EuroDat's Avatar
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    Thats good news Ben. I could,nt remember nr 1 & 7 being wider, but that was almost ten years ago when we rebuild a friends engine. At last you found the problem and can move on knowing its right

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    Not gonna believe this crap. I took the #2 cap off and the #1 cap off, both bearings were the same width. THE SECOND CAP IS NARROWER THAN ALL THE OTHERS!!! Why do you think this is?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Hi Ben,
    I would take all the caps off (except no. 4 because its different) and check if the bearings are different in any way. If not, the only conclusion I can come up with is the manufacturer has made the bearings all the same width (one size fits all) to cut cost or something like that. The bearings could also fit another model nissan engine and they are made to suit both engines. In that case it should not be a problem. You could ask the supplier to check if that is the case.
    In the end the crank turns freely and the end play is within spec. You plastigaged the bearings so you know they are not over tolerance. I would then move on to the next step in the rebuild.

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    Even you think you had a bad luck painting, i think you did a good job. Reading this kinda thing gives me more self confidence, that i can do it. I would be interested in hearing more about how you prepared the engine area and about priming. Did you have both master cylinders, fuel lines and hydraulic lines on engine while you painted?

    CheerZ
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Pretty simple really. I took everything off and since I was going to install a new brake booster I took off the master cylinder and taped it up in a big ball. I left the clutch master on the firewall. I used aluminum foil around the cross member and I also pulled the bunched fuel and brake lines away from the frame and firewall and taped them off. I then used purple power degreaser straight up and washed the engine bay with a yellow kitchen sponge mostly using the abrasive green side. This in itself made the engine bay 80% better and if you didn't want to paint it I would recommend this along with then buffing out the paint as it does rough it up some. After I washed it doing that I used 3M red scotch brite pads to rough up the paint. You really want to make sure you get all the nooks and crannies as the primer has to adhere to this. I used a PPG white epoxy primer to spray the engine bay. On my crappy gravity fed gun I sprayed two good coats at around 45psi. I let this sit 48 hours and came back and wet sanded any areas with runs or orange peel with 800 grit, but I also used those scotch brite pads again. If I was going to do it again I would use 600 grit and wet sand with that. I then sprayed single stage Dupont acrylic enamel as I mentioned above at about 60 psi to make sure I didn't "tiger stripe" the metallic. If I was going to do it over again I would do base coat clear coat and use urethane paint. I would not recommend single stage with metallics and you cannot wet sand out and runs and buff this paint. I now have to buy a touch up gun, scuff those spots again and touch them up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Koalia View Post
    Even you think you had a bad luck painting, i think you did a good job. Reading this kinda thing gives me more self confidence, that i can do it. I would be interested in hearing more about how you prepared the engine area and about priming. Did you have both master cylinders, fuel lines and hydraulic lines on engine while you painted?

    CheerZ
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Looks grand! Cant wait to see it put together.

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    Koalia,

    I like your picture below in your post - It is a perfect example of "ZCurves".

    Andrew
    Andrew (ZCurves)
    1978 Coupe - HLS30-440105
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    pro deo et patria
    My Albumz

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    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Thanks Andrew!

    Ben: how did you removed the electrical harness holders? those flexible ones..?
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Koalia View Post
    Ben: how did you removed the electrical harness holders? those flexible ones..?
    Hi Koalia,

    If you are talking about the re-usable Tye-rap ones, see photo's, you need to squeeze the two tabs on the other side of the panel, which can be a real pain to get to sometimes. Otherwise you will break the tabs off.
    There is another type as well. Its uses a strap with round holes to hold the harness. It has a pin which fits snugly in the body panel. They are really hard to fit in good condition. The thin strap breaks very easy.

    Hope it helps
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My Engine Build-img_1021.jpg   My Engine Build-img_1022.jpg  

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    Update: ZCurves comes over to mi casa and tells me to "not settle" on my paint not matching. Out comes the red scotch brite pads and I have scuffed the engine bay again. Ordered 3 rattle cans from these guys http://www.automotivetouchup.com/, they will be here Monday. I talked to a friend and my old high school body shop teacher. I should be able to spray this urethane over my acrylic enamel just by scuffing it.

    My shortblock is put together.

    Painted my valve cover with VHT wrinkle coat. It kept getting spots that would not wrinkle, this is pissing me off to no end. I think I will need to blast it all again and start over.

    Technically cam #3 is toast. Cam 1 that came in the motor in the parts car was rusted. Cam 2 was lost by "Newman" at the USPS. Cam 3 was good then the other night I noticed it looked like it was dropped off a 10 story building onto the cam dowel. Dowels can be replaced but the hairline crack in the dowel hole to the edge of the cam is another story. Anyone have a good P90 cam they can sell me?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Dammit Newman...

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    Did you ever fix the bearing problem? What brand of bearings are you using?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hr369 View Post
    Did you ever fix the bearing problem? What brand of bearings are you using?
    Yes I did, I had to remove the crank. All the block bearings were correct, just had 1 and 2 on the cap side swapped. Short block is done! Machine shop is starting to aggravate me. They didn't give me back all of my part, so I called and they said they were still there. I go to put in my ballpivots and adjusters and find out I have 12 ball pivots and 11 inserts. I need to call these hillbillies and see if they have it.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    I was wondering how you got on with your bearings. Good to hear that problem is solved. Sounds like a dodgy repair shop you are using. Id steer clear of them and find another shop in future.
    Did you have any luck with another Cam?
    Last edited by EuroDat; 10-22-2012 at 10:27 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    I was wondering how you got on with your bearings. Good to hear that problem is solved. Sounds like a dodgy repair shop you are using. Id steer clear of them and find another shop in future.
    Did you have any luck with another Cam?
    No luck on the cam. Got some leads over on hybridz. Sent my rockers to delta cam in Tacoma Washington o get resurfaced. Just going to take my other cam and make a table lamp out of it.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben's Z View Post
    Anyone have a good P90 cam they can sell me?
    You dont need a P90 cam. You can also use one out of a head with internal oil system (N47, P79) and regrind. If your not going huge lift, the base circles should be alright with standard lash pads and maintain the right geometry. Make sure its a original nissan billet. You can see by "japan" stamped on the end.
    Goodluck searching.

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    Ill probably cop a lot of slack from my last post. Ive noticed in over forums that some poeple have strong opinions about what can and cant be done with regrinding and lash geometry.
    Wahat I was trying to say is the more lift (above standard) you want the more you need to take of the base circles to achieve it. The more you take off the more you need to compensate with larger lash pads. And calculating the size is a pain
    WTH, i jumped out in the open, shoot me then

  58. #58
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Long time, no post! A lot of down time waiting for parts... I mentioned before I was not entirely satisfied with my original paint match in the engine bay, it was too dark. I bought some paint from www.automotivetouchup.com Zedy had used them and if he was satisfied I knew I would be. I ordered 3 aerosol cans of 306, but only needed 2. I just had to rescuff the engine bay again, I didn't need to seal the enamel. I bought a cheapo Harbor Freight HVLP touch up gun and sprayed the clear conventionally. Urethane is the only way to go when it comes to paint. The color is obviously darker than my 1979 respray but is lighter by a few shades than the original color I sprayed. I also got a new booster and sprayed that. I have also been media blasting and painting small items like wiper arms, the little metal pieces around the firewall A/C lines and the tubes for the heater core. I also did the bracket that holds the voltage regulator and fusible links. I completely dissembled my grill and resprayed that and it is now back together.

    Before My Engine Build-img_0061.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0058_1.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0059.jpg


    After My Engine Build-img_0038.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0039.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0040.jpg

    The short block is together and I am now waiting on my rocker arms to come back from Delta Cams for resurfacing along with cam #4 since this project started.

    I have tried wrinkle coat painting the valve cover twice now and it still looks like crap! Followed VHT's instructions to the letter and no dice.

    Bought a used 240mm Turbo flywheel and it is at the machine shop being resurfaced. I am too loyal this machine shop, they have lost a head alignment dowel and one of my ball pivot inserts for the lash adjustment.

    Still need to either have my turbo rebuilt, or source a good used one.

    That is all for now, I don't think I will be done by Thanksgiving, just too many set backs especially with the cam.
    Last edited by Ben's Z; 10-31-2012 at 08:05 PM.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  59. #59
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Default Slitting my wrists over this engine swap.

    As posted at hybridz

    My god, can this build can any worse. So I got my Heli Coil in today with my cam towers and my N47 cam spun great on the P90. Reused the rockers from the N47 and kept them in order. I put permanent marker on all the rockers arms in prep to check the wipe pattern. Anyhow, I got all the rockers in and start setting the lash. I quickly found out even on base circle I couldn't get ANY feeler gauge on the rocker arm on ANY of the exhaust valves. The adjusters are all the way down. I was able to adjust all the intake valves and usually had about 1/2 to 1 full thread sticking out on the ball pivot past the jam nut. I spoke to a knowledgeable forum member who thinks the shop cut the exhaust valve seat too deep. .0015 was taken off the head by this shop and they felt as much as .0010 was taken off in a previous life. Holy crap I am getting weary of this...

    If they cut the seat too deep can they still use my valves and take some off of the stem or will that make the lash pad compress the spring retainer and not the stem itself? Are we look at custom valves on the exhaust side at the very least?


    What do you guys think?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  60. #60
    Supporting Member EuroDat's Avatar
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    Ben, Sounds like you might have exhaust valves from a N47 head. If so that is a PITA. They are 0.80" (2mm) longer and will cause that problem. Those valves are used in a P90 if you go NA, shave 0.80" of the head and shin the cam towers.
    Are they new valves? If so try to get hold of the originals and compare them with the ones in the head. I cant remember what the total length is. Maybe someone here can tell you.

  61. #61
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    Ben, Sounds like you might have exhaust valves from a N47 head. If so that is a PITA. They are 0.80" (2mm) longer and will cause that problem. Those valves are used in a P90 if you go NA, shave 0.80" of the head and shin the cam towers.
    Are they new valves? If so try to get hold of the originals and compare them with the ones in the head. I cant remember what the total length is. Maybe someone here can tell you.
    They are all the original valves except for 1 they had to replace.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  62. #62
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Just take a deep breath Ben.

    things will work out. Time and Patience are your allies. I LOVE your engine bay and I am totally jealous of the firewall. Glad automotive touch up worked out. I am a believer.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  63. #63
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Ok. Dropped the head off at the machine shop. They had put the 2mm longer exhaust valves from the N47 in the head and not the shorter turbo valves. Now I know why I was killing myself to compress the valve springs to get the rocker arms in! I bet they didn't keep the rocker in order though. Whatdya bet?
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  64. #64
    Supporting Member EuroDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben's Z View Post
    They had put the 2mm longer exhaust valves from the N47 in the head and not the shorter turbo valves.
    Ouch, its a pitty they didnt compare the vavles before pulling that stunt. Then they would have seen it in time. It was the only reason I could think and its a common mod when using the P90 on a NA engine.

    Well look at it this way Ben and not trying to be rude. When your finished youll be a expert on what can go wrong when rebuilding z engine.
    When its all finished up an running all the frustration will be forgotten.

  65. #65
    Registered User esmit208's Avatar
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    VERY NICE JOB. Wouldn't it be cool if we all lived in the same town?
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

  66. #66
    Supporting Member EuroDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by esmit208 View Post
    VERY NICE JOB. Wouldn't it be cool if we all lived in the same town?
    YEP, I second that. Im like out there on planet pluto.
    Everything I want is overthere in the states and the frustration of getting it here with shipping costs often more than the part itself. And then I have to pay 21% tax on everything, just to rub a little more salt in.....

    Ben, keep up the good work. Your doing great. You probably dont think that atm, but later when you are finished and look back it will be ok.
    Chas

  67. #67
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Welcome to my hell and happy new year to all. Update...

    My cam wouldn't spin they way it should, not when compared to my other cams spinning in my old head. I was told over ay hybridz to have the top of the head milled. I took it to a different shop this time and they cleaned it up .012, they said it wasn't true. They gave it back to me but it just wasn't right. I didn't need that $130 anyhow.

    I thought I would try one last time to torque it to the block. The cam loaded in the towers but it took some tapping to get it in the last tower. I noticed when I stared through the back of the last cam tower the cam was favoring the 2 o'clock position. I confirmed this by using some prussian blue machinist die later on applied to the inside of the towers.

    What I found out was this...

    My head is warped like "(" from front to back. It is parallel top to bottom now but warped and bent like a banana. I put my Stanley level on port side of the head and I could get some drag on a .010 feeler gauge on the center exhaust ports. Some of the resident experts at hybrid tell me now both machine shops should have checked and straightened this before they milled the top and bottom of the head and trying to fix that now will ruin the previous milling. Thus I have about $400 in this awesome paper weight. So I began the search again for another P90 head. I have a guy from the Houston Z club with a P90A and I have the inserts to convert to adjustable lash.

    I have been told that Westside Machine and Scroggins machine in Houston do excellent work. I am going to go with Scroggin. I may take my bent head down there first and see if they can save that first. If not it will become a parts head and I will get the P90A from the Houston local.

    What a nightmare.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  68. #68
    Supporting Member EuroDat's Avatar
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    Hi Ben,
    Ouch, thats a dam pricey paper weight. Hope you have better luck with the P90A. Its a pitty youcan not get the hydraulic units for the P90A head. They ran very quiet and smooth.
    Goodluck with it, maybe 2013 is your lucky year
    Chas

  69. #69
    Registered User conedodger's Avatar
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    Not really necessary to mask off the block like that. I have painted several and you just paint judiciously, avoiding what stays raw metal then wipe down the surfaces you don't want painted with paint thinner. In fact that is what I thought you had done because your tape is the proper block color. Then I opened your pictures up... 8)
    Rob
    2000 BMW R1100 RT-SE (for sale)
    1999 Toyota 4Runner Supercharged
    1975 Porsche 914 stroker motor autoX car
    1973 Datsun 240Z Restoration project. New paint in original white. E31 head on 2.4 block. Nissan Motorsports header. R200 with Nissan motorsports LSD.

  70. #70
    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    YEP, I second that. Im like out there on planet pluto.
    Everything I want is overthere in the states and the frustration of getting it here with shipping costs often more than the part itself. And then I have to pay 21% tax on everything, just to rub a little more salt in.....

    Ben, keep up the good work. Your doing great. You probably dont think that atm, but later when you are finished and look back it will be ok.
    Chas

    21% taxes? Lucky you, we pay 24%. And shipping via ship takes up to 7 weeks...bah. Sometimes i order trough airmail, when i have saved for couple of months..
    EuroDat likes this.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

  71. #71
    Registered User ksbeta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koalia View Post
    21% taxes? Lucky you, we pay 24%. And shipping via ship takes up to 7 weeks...
    You need to find yourself a friend Stateside and work some voodoo to skirt Johnny Law.

    Ben - Realize you're having a rough go, but wanted to chime in and thank you for the tip on Automotive Touchup.com. Saw this yesterday, and ordered a couple cans of paint to finish the exact same project you posted about. Thanks, and I hope things start looking up.
    Feb '70 & Mar '71 240z

  72. #72
    Supporting Member EuroDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koalia View Post
    21% taxes? Lucky you, we pay 24%. And shipping via ship takes up to 7 weeks...bah. Sometimes i order trough airmail, when i have saved for couple of months..
    24% ahh, dont they realise how much it already cost to restore these cars
    I try to use sea freight as much as possable. The parcels get knocked about a lot, but it cuts cost a lot. Biggest problem is a lot of E-bayseller only use priority mail at tripple the cost and still takes two to three weeks.

    PS I pay 21% tax and import duties which start at 7.50
    Last edited by EuroDat; 01-23-2013 at 12:11 PM.

  73. #73
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    Ok, took my head to Scroggins Machine in Houston. Let me say what a first class operation they have there. Bobby the lead machinist knows his stuff and is a great guy to talk to. He looked at me head and said. "I owned one of these cars and this cam is going to be fine, don't worry about it. He said one thing you can do is completely remove one set of cam tower alignment dowels to assist in getting the cam to spin better. I had never heard of this but it makes sense. The towers are not going anywhere once bolted down and certainly not when you put the head bolts through it.

    My disaster story gets even better though. I believe this error is 25% my fault and 75% ARP Fastener's fault.

    So I open up and install my head studs. The directions say 7/16 head studs, torque to 80 ft lbs (odd factory is 60 N/A Turbo is 65) in a 3 step sequence. Well I had torqued it to 60 before I took the head to Scroggins Machine so I never took it to 80. Well I get it back and because it said 7/16" on the instructions I used 12 pt 1/2 drive socket. I get to nut #9 on the 80 ft lbs. sequence and I ROUND OFF an ARP nut. I couldn't believe how ****ty my life was. Swearing I stomped in to the house and unloaded on ARP and their overpriced crap over on hybridz. Quickly I was called out for being an idiot as it is 12mm and torque to 60 ft lbs. I snapped a picture of the instructions and posted it over there and they said "you got the wrong instruction sheet". OMG! I called ARP, explained I didn't have the box, but just an invoice from one of my customer jobber stores and picture of the instructions. They stepped up and sent me the correct amount of studs and a new nut AND THE CORRECT INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS! Kudos to ARP! I later found out from a buddy at hybrid that sometimes ARP will use SAE nuts on cars that are metric, like the early Datsun convertibles, so while I should have second guessed what was going on....well....

    Well, everything is going well again and by Sunday my motor should be all done.

    I am using some VHT high heat paint to dress up my timing cover and some other items before I put the front cover on.

    Here are some pictures of the engine tonight. My Engine Build-img_0136_3.jpgMy Engine Build-arp-instructions.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0135_3.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0137_3.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0139_3.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0140_3.jpgMy Engine Build-img_0141_3.jpg

    Hoping to install engine and trans as a unit in the next few weekends.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  74. #74
    Registered User grannyknot's Avatar
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    Ben you sure have been through the wringer on this one, hope all goes well now and you get to fire it up shortly.
    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

  75. #75
    Supporting Member rcb280z's Avatar
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    Ben, what's the latest on your project?

  76. #76
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcb280z View Post
    Ben, what's the latest on your project?
    Got the motor and trans installed as a unit. Ordered a turbo rebuild kit from goop turbo shop, but I found cracks in my turbo housing, so I need another turbo and that needs to go back. I stated in a new thread that I cannot get the clutch fork to move enough to get the slave cylinder to reattach to the bell housing. I hate the thought of having to remove the engine again, this time by itself, to fix the clutch fork and whatever is holding it up. I'm not sure how hard a clutch fork is supposed to be to push on manually.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  77. #77
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    Getting my bake on!

    My Engine Build-manifold.jpg

    Been using the oven a lot of the last few weeks. I really recommend VHT high temp paint. I used it on my timing cover, and 280zx AC compressor mount in an aluminum color. I now have my exhaust manifold baking at 400 and then again at 600 in "Cast Iron" color. Should be interesting to see how this holds up with a turbo mounted to it.
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  78. #78
    Registered User Ben's Z's Avatar
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    I'm not dead, but this is all taking much longer than I thought. I fixed my throwout collar issue by buying a 280zxt bearing collar. With the help of ZCurves we had the trans in and out and the problem solved in about 1 hour. Wrestling the trans on the garage floor is much easier with two dudes. I sourced a 0 mile stock rebuilt T3 Garrett and an MSA S30 swap downpipe unused out of a guy in New Hampshire at hybridz. I got the turbo bolted on but then my oil return tube wouldn't bolt to the turbo and have enough clearance between the return tube on the turbo oil pan. I think my tube may have been bent, during removal from the parts car, either way I got it on there with some Sanford and Son work. I am also using a N42 intake and low and behold the damn PCV valve interferes with the pressurized side of the outlet on the turbo. Well off the intake came AGAIN. I used a brass NPT elbow that gave me more clearance now the PCV rides horizontally off the bottom of the intake. I ordered a FMIC and IC piping kit off of ebay today. Still need a wideband (thinking AEM) manual boost controller, and BOV. I have a 6 week year old baby girl, thank god my mother in law has been here helping out, otherwise this thing would have been put on hold until about 2016. I also found a MSA fiberglass 240z bumper on craigslist that I bought in Austin.

    Here are some pictures before the motor and trans was installed as a unit about 1 month ago. And some of the other heartache. I also attached a picture of my VHT hightemp exhaust manifold paint. Ok, for starters this will piss off your wife who gets about 4 hours sleep every night because of your newborn. The aroma in the house is not be confused with anything made by "Toll House" or "Nestle". My Engine Build-exhaust-manifold.jpgMy Engine Build-install.jpgMy Engine Build-pcv.jpgMy Engine Build-manifold.jpg
    1977 280Z 5 Speed
    HLS30-388451

    Do you know where my Grandpa's 240z is? He sold it around 1994. I think it was a 72. It was orange with black interior and some sort of scissors style aftermarket crank up sunroof. I think it was sold to a fellow pharmacist and I think he was from Egg Harbor Wisconsin. At the time the car had between 32-36k original miles. He sold it for the lowly sum of $3000-$3500. My grandpa passed away a few years ago and I would like to know its whereabouts.

  79. #79
    Registered User Bonzi Lon's Avatar
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    You should know not to use anyone's (wife's) tools (oven) without permission, especially when stressed (new baby).

    Bonzi Lon
    1973 HLS30-168500
    1968 SPL311-18100
    1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
    CZCC#11300

    Ones and Zeros

    "We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla

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