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Spark plug pictures, good or bad?

This is a discussion on Spark plug pictures, good or bad? within the Engine and Drivetrain (S30) forums, part of the 1st Generation Z (S30) category; I just changed my spark plugs yesterday and I have 2 questions. First is that it took longer than usual ...


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    Default Spark plug pictures, good or bad?

    I just changed my spark plugs yesterday and I have 2 questions. First is that it took longer than usual to start up, is that normal with new spark plugs? And secondly, I took pictures of the plugs that came with the car when I bought it, can anyone tell me whether it looks as if my engine is running well or not? Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Spark plug pictures, good or bad?-img_20110212_162302.jpg   Spark plug pictures, good or bad?-img_20110212_162434.jpg   Spark plug pictures, good or bad?-img_20110212_162444.jpg   Spark plug pictures, good or bad?-img_20110212_162457.jpg   Spark plug pictures, good or bad?-img_20110212_162504.jpg  


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    Registered User Gary in NJ's Avatar
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    To do a proper reading, we would need to see into the plugs to see the insulator. With that said, if these were "high-mileage" plugs (5,000 or more miles) they look good from the outside.

    It's hard to determine mixture from high mileage plugs because is not unusual for them to be coated with carbon. They appear to be dry with no unusual wear patterns. Numbers 5 & 6 look a little better then the others.

    WHen you say the engine was hard to start after the replacement, could you describe what you mean and what other work was done along with the plug swap.
    Gary
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    I'll try to take a few more close up pictures later today. As for work I have done so far, I have changed the air filter and fuel filter too. The car has always been a little difficult to start since the choke is jammed at the moment (next on my to do list). However, after changing the plugs the starter went for a while then just stopped going. I was about to give up, but I tried one more time and it started right up.

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    You might have drained the fuel back when you changed the filter. Did you gap the plugs?

    As for the old plugs they don't look that bad you might be a little rich on the front carb 56 look about right and 4 looks a little cleaner 1-3

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    I don't think your old plugs look bad at all. For what it's worth get rid of the Autolite and go to NGK. Just my opinion.

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    I did gap the plugs with a proper gapping tool, and I do have ngks in it now. The previous owner put in the autolites.Thanks though for the suggestion! And what does draining the fuel back do? So overall consensus is its looking good? That will be some of the best news on this car so far!

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    Quote Originally Posted by yoshi_w View Post
    I did gap the plugs with a proper gapping tool, and I do have ngks in it now. The previous owner put in the autolites.Thanks though for the suggestion! And what does draining the fuel back do? So overall consensus is its looking good? That will be some of the best news on this car so far!
    Sorry I should have been more specific about the fuel,, when you pulled the filter gas will return to the tank just like when you put your finder on the end of a straw you can pick up the liquid, then when you release your finger the liquid will drop same idea. Have tried starting it again?

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    YOSHI
    Get a Haynes Manual for the year that corresponds with the build year for your car. On the inside of the back cover exists several color pictures of lean, rich, too cold, too hot spark plug appearances. I addition a brief synopsis of what symptoms cause certain spark plug appearances. That is a good starting point. Now next depending on whether your car is fuel injected on carburetted the condition pretty much remains standard. Finally what adustment to make to correct and bad spark plug appearance. Skinner Union and other side draft carburettors generally have the richest charge at numbers 2 & 5. All other cylinders need to be adjusted to match those cylinders. You can get your fuel delivery system to be spot on +/- a degree or so. But by all means GET A HAYNES MANUAL! Good Luck!
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

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    To be honest, I've been kind of scared to start it again but if the fuel dropping back is the most likely culprit to the slow start, I'll try again tomorrow! And it looks like I'll be getting the haynes manual. Thanks so much everyone!

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    John B. is right on. Auto light make good sinkers for fishing, as far as a Z application.
    For some unknown reason NGK are the plugs work in these engines. I have had nothing but success with them. For a 240 engine BPR6ES. Now I am running a 280ZX engine and using BPR6EY-11 and again I will not use any other brand. I was told this 11 years ago when my 240Z ran like crap.
    I switched from the Champions and all cleared up. And they were new plugs . :-[ Don't waist your bucks on the ''special'' wopper dopper plugs .
    Gary
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoshi_w View Post
    To be honest, I've been kind of scared to start it again but if the fuel dropping back is the most likely culprit to the slow start, I'll try again tomorrow! And it looks like I'll be getting the haynes manual. Thanks so much everyone!
    Don't get the Haynes it is not worth it you will just end up getting the FSM. Just order a factory manual you can get them on CD pretty cheap

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    I just got b6es-11 as specified in the fsm (i have a pdf of one, for the 240z, l24, and 280z). I think that means no projected tip, but the engine ran better than with the autolights! So get the haynes or no??

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    Don't get haynes it is very general pay for the Factory manual it will help greatly

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    I'm not sure what FSM you have - but Nissan issued Factory Service Bulletins which updated much of the information in the FSM's. At some point they recommended the extend tip BP6ES so that the electrodes projected farther into the combustion gases to help keep the plugs from carbon fowling.

    If you are going to "read" your plugs - you have to install clean plugs and then run the car though its normal operating RPM range. A quick loop around the interstate and then home to pull the plugs. If the car has been driven around town, for short stop and go driving - you will not get much useful information from the condition of the plugs.

    A choke sticking ON will give you a very rich mixture - and you will usually see carbon build up on the plugs. The FIRST thing to do is get the choke working properly so it can be full OFF...

    FWIW,
    Carl B.

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    Sorry for the thread hijack, but Carl, did the service bulletins recommend the projected tips for all models (e.g. my '78?) Thanks...
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

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    The FSM I have is copyright 1974 for the 1975 280z, and recommends b6es spark plugs. Next time I change plugs I'll get the bp6es. As for the choke, it is sticking off, so full forward, causing difficult starting but no other troubles than that, thanks! And I'll try the procedure to read the plugs since the ones I just put in are brand new and I haven't driven the car yet. Thanks for the help!

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    Without reading all the responces, I can tell you part of the problem is....
    DO NOT Use Autolite Plugs in a Z car!!!

    NGK BPR6ES
    I personally use BP6ES but that's a personal choice. I also have a Mallory Promaster Coil, Unilite Dizzy and MSD 6AL. But I won't use anything but NGK plugs and wires. I've tried all the others, Autolites, Champians, Splitfires, Etc, etc. Nothing lasts as long or burns like the NGK's

    Dave
    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 02-14-2011 at 11:52 AM.
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    I'm using ngk's now. The autolights were the previous owner, not me haha.

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Ya I read that afterwards, but for anyone else who reads the thread, they'll know by reading all of our posts, that NGK is the only thing they should really use.

    Glad you're getting it fixed. I think you'll be much happier with the NGK's in there. Better Gas milage and power and starting.

    Dave
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