GC111 won't start
This is a discussion on GC111 won't start within the Electrical (240K) forums, part of the Model 240k category; Hello, Well I installed a Mallory Unilite vac advance distributor along with a Blaster 3 coil and NGK plugs on ...
- 03-30-2009 #1
GC111 won't start
Well I installed a Mallory Unilite vac advance distributor along with a Blaster 3 coil and NGK plugs on my L28/N42 with triple Mikuni carbs. The car has been running ok but a little rich due to the upgraded ignition that was on the engine before I bought it. It did not come with the engine, but I do plan on buying an MSD 6A for it. But any way, I go to start the car in the morning and when I step on the gas, the power cuts off.
The car has not been running for around a month. I checked the fuel, and I've got a new battery and I think the carbs work, but I do not have any power going to the coil. I checked the coil with a multimeter and it's good. I even hooked up the stock coil and it still did not receive any power. I then checked the distributor, and I have carbon build up on the distributor cap leads from cylinder 1 and 6 only. I still don't know why I'm not getting any spark from the coil? I have A black and gray wire going to the positive, and a black and green going to the negative. The grey wire goes to a ballast resistor, which has a red wire that goes to the distributor.
Can anyone help me?
- 03-31-2009 #2
shouldnt you be getting 12v from either the ignition circuit? or batt aswell, forgive me as its been a while since ive worked on my Lseries,
Skyline nationals 2008: http://www.classiczcars.comforums/showthread.php?t=27339
- 03-31-2009 #3
I get 12v reading from the new battery and the coil, but when I try to crank it, no spark is coming out of the coil?
- 04-01-2009 #4
run a wire from the battery positive to the coil positive and then bridge the starter motor terminals. If it runs you have a wiring issue somewhere between the ignition barrel and the coil.
- 04-02-2009 #5
"run a wire from the battery positive to the coil positive and then bridge the starter motor terminals. If it runs you have a wiring issue somewhere between the ignition barrel and the coil."
Ok, so I understand how to run the wire from the battery positive to the coil positive. But what do you mean by bridgeing the starter motor terminals? Could you be a little more specific please? Thanks man. I'm not to up on the electrical system, pleas bare with me.
- 04-02-2009 #6
- Member ID
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- Oct 2001
- Perth, Western Australia
- 04-02-2009 #7
For future reference to bridge the starter you need a small piece of metal, maybe a screwdriver and you bridge the two terminals on the starter so that power can run between them. This will bypass the keys action and get the starter to kick in. As you have run the wire straight from the battery to the coil the car should run with the key in the off position.
Tyrone, does the car still start and then die when you give it some gas or is it not starting up at all now?
- 04-03-2009 #8
- 04-03-2009 #9
Well, I got myself a test light and tested the connection from the + battery terminal to the coil and the secondary resistance. I also, I got a bright green light. Then I attached the spark plug wire (hi temp super stock radio suppression core 8mm wire) to the coil and checked the connection using the test light on the other end of the wire. It was green as well, but not as bright. Is this normal? How do I know I have the right spark plug wires for my ignition set up?
Once I got the green light from the wire, I then attached it to the distributor cap and and tested the connection from underneath it....the contact from the cap to the pointer, and I got the same faint light. Then I decided to pull all 6 plugs from the cap and found the terminal 1 and 6 had carbon currosion caused from high voltage arching. Aparently, the contact between the plug wire leads were not close enought to the 1 and 6 terminal on the cap.
i found this on www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/1895123.
Should I get new wires, or are they all the same?
- 05-20-2009 #10
well, after waiting forever for spark plug wires, I just decided to get some wires here at my local RS Start sport shop...man it was expensive, like every other nostalgic car part upgrade over here. I finally get the wires in with the new distributor cap and the daim thing still would not start! That's when I gave up, and towed it to a shop. After an hour troubleshooting they found out the the CPU in the Unilite Distributor was fried. AH CRAP! I should of known that! CPU cost me 100.00, Ultra 8mm spark plug wires cost me around 200.00, but the engine is as good as new. Now all I have to do is install the MSD6A and adjust the A/F ratio on the triple Mikuni's.
- 05-20-2009 #11
Post some photos for us Tyrone.
Do you get out much in the car scene over there?
- 05-31-2009 #12
I actually just came from a JCCA nostalgic car show last week. I'm really trying to hook the engine up and so I've been taking pictures and studying the style of L6 mods over here versus in the states. So I took a couple of engine shots from a couple of GC10's and one GC110. They also had a sweet 240Z there. I'll post some pics soons as I get out of work.
- 05-31-2009 #13
- 06-01-2009 #14
Last edited by 440k; 06-01-2009 at 06:21 PM.So many arseholes...
So few bullets.
- 06-02-2009 #15
I agree with you on that one 440k. It's' actually uncommon to see ground earth wires on an L28 here in Japan. But sometimes they can get carried away with the steel braided lines.
- 06-14-2009 #16
I prefer as few wires as possible in the engine bay. Too many looks messy no matter how much stainless is used.
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