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Door slamming issue fixed-finally!!!!

This is a discussion on Door slamming issue fixed-finally!!!! within the Body and Paint (S30) forums, part of the 1st Generation Z (S30) category; I guess sometimes you have to get pissed off enough to fix somethings. A complete resto and my passenger door ...


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    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    Default Door slamming issue fixed-finally!!!!

    I guess sometimes you have to get pissed off enough to fix somethings. A complete resto and my passenger door has never been right. The passenger door always had to be slammed and acted like it was sprung. The bottom of the door didn't line up flush with the bottom of the body line rear quarter. I tried adjusting the latch a million times it seemed. Pulling up on the door from the end it seemed that the hinge was slightly worn.

    So I pulled the door off after trying again to adjust everything and decided to shim the bottom hinge. I just grabbed a scrap of .060 aluminum and cut out a shim to put under the lower hinge so I could raise the door just a bit. What a difference it made. You wouldn't think that an adjustement so small and in a direction that seemed contrary or ineffective to the direction I needed to go would work, but it did.
    I guess it allowed the latch adjustment to be effective. Now the door lines up perfect and now the door closes with just a firm push. It also opens like it's not sprung.
    Oh how happy for a small victory. I hope this helps others with this common problem.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
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    Glad to hear you got it fixed and your materials were at no cost. You are right, the smallest adjustments can make the biggest difference in how well a part functions. It's all in the details. If you have any pictures of your repair post them up, I think myself and other forum members would like to see your work.

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    That fits with what I have read in some posts about the sag at the door hinges. I like the elegance of the solution, too.
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    There's really much to photograph , it was a piece of scrap aluminum made to wedge behind the lower hinge. The metal might have been.060 thick. I guess it took so long to figure out since the door fit pretty well before all the paint work.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
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    FWIW, I believe there were hinge shims that came from the factory, I have some that were on my Z. I'm assuming you didn't have any of those on your Z?

    Here they are in the parts diagram: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun...2/Default.aspx

    EDIT: Upon review, it seems like those aren't the shims I was thinking of. The shims I was talking about have slots for the bolts and went between the hinge and the body.
    Last edited by LeonV; 03-21-2012 at 09:32 AM.
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    Question Door seal issue

    I'm having a MAJOR issue right now with both of my doors not closing right. The car is at the paint shop, and has been for a very very long time. Well after finally getting it painted, the reassembly is underway and mostly done. However the doors do not close correctly with the new door seals from Precision. The body shop says the doors, fenders, etc are all lined up as perfect as can be done, and that the door seal is at fault. My Z friends are telling me that everyone uses the Precision seals and almost all are able to make them work. So who's right? The body shop took the seals back out because they're afraid of bending or denting the door trying to close it so hard. The body shop says if they start shimming the doors and adjusting fenders, etc everything will then be off and not lined up like it is now. I need some serious advice here!

    BTW, these are the 280Z door seals that are supposedly not as thick as the 240Z seals, so I don't know what options are left.

    HELP!
    Bryan Pilati
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    Quote Originally Posted by madkaw View Post
    There's really much to photograph , it was a piece of scrap aluminum made to wedge behind the lower hinge. The metal might have been.060 thick. I guess it took so long to figure out since the door fit pretty well before all the paint work.
    Did you put the shim between the hinge and the body or between the hinge and the door? .060" is 1.5 mm. Does that sound about right for thickness? That's a fairly thick shim.

    My driver's door only shuts half-way occasionally, like some cars do when the cabin is sealed really well, and this might be worth a try. The hinges do have some play.

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    It took a long time for my Precision door seals to crush to the point that I didn't have to slam the heck out of them. I'm not certain that mine were as bad as yours, Bryan, as I never felt that I was afraid of damaging anything during door closing.

    That said, if I were doing it again today, I'd give some thought to using the Kia Sportage door seals instead of the Precision. Or another thought might be seals from Black Dragon. Apparently some of there seals are not from Precision. If someone could verify that for the door seals, that might be an option, too.

    Another possibility would be to talk to Vintage Rubber. Call them and explain the current problem, and see if they would give any assurance that their seals wouldn't be the same way.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arne View Post
    It took a long time for my Precision door seals to crush to the point that I didn't have to slam the heck out of them. I'm not certain that mine were as bad as yours, Bryan, as I never felt that I was afraid of damaging anything during door closing.

    That said, if I were doing it again today, I'd give some thought to using the Kia Sportage door seals instead of the Precision. Or another thought might be seals from Black Dragon. Apparently some of there seals are not from Precision. If someone could verify that for the door seals, that might be an option, too.

    Another possibility would be to talk to Vintage Rubber. Call them and explain the current problem, and see if they would give any assurance that their seals wouldn't be the same way.
    Thanks. Well the body shop is just paranoid about messing something up. They think it should close perfectly.
    Bryan Pilati
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    Default door adjustment

    sometimes body shops adjust things too perfect. I've found that if you open up the gap between the door and the quarter panel, i.e. move
    the door forward in adjustment, and the fender forward, the precision seals work fine.

    a good way to determine if the door gap is too tight is to close the door and look at the door from INSIDE the car where it meets the quarter panel/latch area. it will probably look like the door metal is very close in some areas or rather uneven or touching the gasket even before
    the door is fully closed.

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    The question is, how much do you screw with it, before deciding you were better off before you adjusted?
    Bryan Pilati
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    Default door slamming

    Quote Originally Posted by bpilati View Post
    The question is, how much do you screw with it, before deciding you were better off before you adjusted?


    well for me it was worth the time to get it where i liked it. having to slam the door every time makes you fell like the car is a pos, plus its not good for the window frame or glass and you could dent the weak metal just above the door handle.

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    The shim was placed between the door and the hinge. My doors were removed for paint and might have originally had a shim and it was lost in the mess! I'm pretty sure it was .060
    I also had to slam the door hard, even though I thought it was adjusted right.
    Grab the end of the door with it open and try to lift up- there should be no play.
    There is also a small amount of adjustment on the window and frame. I am also running precision seals
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
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    I replaced my door seals when I painted the car. Doors were not removed for painting, so I know the difference in how the doors shut was totally the seals, not adjustment. Obviously, correct adjustment is important. But if the doors are still difficult to close when the doors and hinges are properly adjusted, it may be time to blame the seals.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
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    Agreed, Arne. My doors were off and completely apart with the window frames off and powder coated.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
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    Quote Originally Posted by madkaw View Post
    Agreed, Arne. My doors were off and completely apart with the window frames off and powder coated.
    You powder coated your doors?
    Bryan Pilati
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    Window frames!!
    Steve
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    When we put my car together we gave up on the Precision door seals and used some Volvo seals that fit perfectly. If you want original look with the separate welting that might not work for you. My brother has owned his bodyshop for thirty years and is also is a stubborn man but he had to give up on the door rubbers from Precision. The window and hatch seals were great.

    Casey

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    Quote Originally Posted by madkaw View Post
    Window frames!!
    You powder coated stainless steel window frames? To each his own.
    Bryan Pilati
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey_z View Post
    When we put my car together we gave up on the Precision door seals and used some Volvo seals that fit perfectly. If you want original look with the separate welting that might not work for you. My brother has owned his bodyshop for thirty years and is also is a stubborn man but he had to give up on the door rubbers from Precision. The window and hatch seals were great.

    Casey
    Which Volvo?
    Bryan Pilati
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    I am pretty sure it was a mid ninety's 850 Volvo.

    There are a couple of options Kia or Volvo if you do a search there is a ton of info.

    Casey

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    My notes show the 93-2002 KIA Sportage for the door seal.

    It may sound a little redundant, but it sure helped my door closing, is make sure there is a liberal amount of grease on the striker and moving door locking parts.

    Bonzi Lon
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    Thanks for the info, guys.

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    I had problems with the Precision top window frame seals and actually broke one of the outside door handles trying to open the door. Ended up trimming the bottom of the seal to fit into the channel and now all is good. It took me about 2 hours to get the passenger door adjusted to close and open without slamming and swearing.

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    I had a problem with having the passenger door on my Frontier p/u slamming. Finally told the wife, 'I'll shut the door; just go in the house.'
    72 240-- stock motor and drivetrain, 50,500 orig. miles

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    Can someone recommend the best place to get the Volvo 850 and Kia Sportage seals? What are the exact years used on your cars? Thanks, I'd like to get these this week.
    Bryan Pilati
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    Years for the Kia are in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...therstip-rocks!.
    I think the 4 door version will work. I bought the 2 door and had excess to trim. I found a Kia dealership online and ordered from them.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJ View Post
    Years for the Kia are in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...therstip-rocks!.
    I think the 4 door version will work. I bought the 2 door and had excess to trim. I found a Kia dealership online and ordered from them.
    And you found it fully satisfactory both operationally and material quality?
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    Yes & yes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJ View Post
    Years for the Kia are in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...therstip-rocks!.
    I think the 4 door version will work. I bought the 2 door and had excess to trim. I found a Kia dealership online and ordered from them.
    How does the Kia seal handle the up right (driver's side) sharp corner?
    Bryan Pilati
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpilati View Post
    How does the Kia seal handle the up right (driver's side) sharp corner?
    Quite well IMHO.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJ View Post
    Quite well IMHO.
    It appears that the Sportage seal does not have the corner bend molded in like the Z molding does, so I guess you have to be satisfied to live without it.
    Bryan Pilati
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    Interesting topic, I also still can't get that doors to close normally without moderate slamming... And I believe the passenger side door is also not lining up below. I cleaned all the hinges and replaced the dovetails, but still there. So reading this it can either be the seals that are to thick or the hinges that are worn. I will try when I get the car back.
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    Just test the door for up and down play by lifting it at the end- worn hinges will be evident
    Steve
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    Quote Originally Posted by bartsscooterservice View Post
    Interesting topic, I also still can't get that doors to close normally without moderate slamming... And I believe the passenger side door is also not lining up below. I cleaned all the hinges and replaced the dovetails, but still there. So reading this it can either be the seals that are to thick or the hinges that are worn. I will try when I get the car back.
    I was having problems with the driver side door on my 260Z. I used a tech tip Enrique Scanlon posted several years ago. You can read about it here: Fixing the Door Latch | Fiddling With Z Cars
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    ! Now I removed the door seal and it closes normally.. I put a piece of the seal on the car en closed the door watching from the inside, and shined with a light, and saw that the door can't reach the " 2 " click without a slam, because it starts compressing the seal ( seal is giving resistance, which causes you need to slam ), if i then remove the seal, 2 clicks are reached easily and the door close normally. So I asume the door seal is tho thick.. maybe aftermarket?

    The important rubber piece enrique talked about on the clicking/rotating mechanism ( hook ) in the door is still there on both sides.
    Last edited by bartsscooterservice; 02-18-2013 at 02:13 PM.
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    Datsun 240Z - Door Seal LH Drivers (Fits on Body)

    okay now my door seal doesnˊt look like this.... which seems far thinner and easier on compressing...mm wil continue tomorrow see if I can get a door seal like this one from vintage
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

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    Sounds like you are have the same problem I'm having on my 77 280. I bought the ones from MSA (not OE) a year and a half ago and am still having the "tight" issue. I have to push on the door and pull on the handle at the same time because I don't want to damage my door mechanism. I called MSA today and they suggested putting a heat gun on it to soften it. Not sure I want to try that. Need to investigate a little on that procedure!

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    Okay so this morning I went to the nearest city, to a shop I know which has all kinds of rubber profiles. To bad the one I needed was temporary not available, but I can order today, and I will have it in 2 days. Anyhow they still got a small piece of a meter left, so I could try back home...

    Next thing was amazing..

    I noticed the seal is very soft which makes it very easy to close the door, and checked with a lamp inside for a seal against the door, and it does it's job perfectly! Also the seal is clamp/seal in one, so I don't need to use clamp anymore that was on the body to hold the seal in place. I ain't much expensive either.

    Pictures say more then words:

    Here's the old seal that came out:





    The new seal:





    And what I did on the car's body:























    Video ( listen 2 clicks ), second video see how easily the door closes, without slamming...

    View My Video

    View My Video
    Last edited by bartsscooterservice; 02-19-2013 at 06:08 AM.
    30 Ounce likes this.
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

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    Would you like to share with us what it is and how to get it? as i am dealing with the same thing.

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    Supporting Member rcb280z's Avatar
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    And will that fit all S30's?

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    I would love to fix the slamming issue, it is better than before, but all hinges are in perfect shame and all parts are accoutned for, and in alingment. I have the Vintage Rubber seals and I think I need to work these over somewhat or switch the seals out.

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    It's awesome bartsscooterservice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcb280z View Post
    And will that fit all S30's?
    I think so.. it's just pushed onto the metal edge. I don't know what immitation brand door seals that was on the car, but the problem was it was way to strong, I couldn't even push it to the 2nd click without some serious force, with the new seal it needs a little push to here the 2nd click, so it is actually compressing the seal which is needed, but the seal compresses much easier..which makes the door easier to close without slamming.

    The lower side of the passenger side door was also sticking out on the bottom ( you can clearly see on the pictures above ), with the new seal it was solved, I did need to adjust the cath plate a little, but it made a huge difference.
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

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    It's awesome bartsscooterservice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kacrow76 View Post
    Would you like to share with us what it is and how to get it? as i am dealing with the same thing.
    it's in mm

    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

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    Supporting Member rcb280z's Avatar
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    Okay cool, do you have a part number so I can order mine. Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rcb280z View Post
    Okay cool, do you have a part number so I can order mine. Thanks!
    Don't have a part number, but the picture above shows the sizes..., I got it at an industrial supplier for all kinds of rubber seals.
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

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    It's awesome bartsscooterservice's Avatar
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    Have to say they work well, I've sprayed water on it with a hose, and I can't see any leaks inside the car. Makes the doors close alot easier
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

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