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Door Window Squeegee

This is a discussion on Door Window Squeegee within the Body and Paint (S30) forums, part of the 1st Generation Z (S30) category; I swear, I did search but found nothing recent that appears applicable. Has anyone found a suitable replacement RUBBER piece ...


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    Registered User tlorber's Avatar
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    Default Door Window Squeegee

    I swear, I did search but found nothing recent that appears applicable.

    Has anyone found a suitable replacement RUBBER piece that attaches to the stainless strip on the outside of the door to seal the windows? My stainless strips are in good condition and I'd rather not pay $80.00 per side just for some new rubber. I know it has been discussed in the past, but has anyone here recently dealt with this?

    Thanks.

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    I bought the squeegees from Too Intense Restorations for $47 +ship.
    The leg that attaches is too tall for a stock 71 240Z stainless strip. I had to cut them down to make them fit. Also, the curved piece that wipes the window is shorter than the original.
    It works but you need to modify.
    I wouldn't recommend them.
    I've gotten replies to my thread that the MSA rubber is an exact fit, coming in OEM Nissan bags.
    Last edited by mlc240z; 06-15-2010 at 03:40 PM.
    Bart

    5/71 240z, HLS30-31306, mostly stock, ZTherapy SU's, Pertronix, Eibach ProKit, KYB, Poly bushings, 60 amp alternator w/Dave's plug bypass, headlight and parking light harness upgrades.

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    The ones I ordered from MSA were a Nissan part. It may be cheaper to go through your Nissan dealer or at least get a price quote first. The part was an exact fit for my '72 - a little pricey but completes the door.
    Life's a journey; enjoy the ride!

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    I called MSA today and they said they don't sell just the rubber. You have to buy the metal and rubber as one piece. Are you guys saying that you can get just the rubber from them?

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    Nope - it's all one piece.
    Life's a journey; enjoy the ride!

    Mitchell
    L28 - N42 Block w/Flat tops - N42 Rebello Head & Cam - Triple 40 PHH Mikuni's - Headers - Recaro Seats -
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    1972 Datsun 240z
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    OK, sorry to flog this horse here but as I've tried to locate the squeegee, it has become apparant that either 1)people are not satisfied with existing profiles that are available 2) you (I) can't get calls back from suppliers, and 3) I just can't stomach spending nearly $200.00 for a part that MIGHT fit my car when all I need is some stinkin' rubber seals.

    Therefore my question is: how much demand would there be if I were able to have the window squeegees made? It sounds like the setup and run would be a couple thousand dollars, but I'd be willing to do it if I could amoritize the cost over enough sets. Let's say the final cost would be $30.00-$40.00 for the pair. These could be made from a more modern material (some type of neoprene rather than rubber) which would hold up to UV light better, and would stay pliable longer than rubber. I would use the existing rubber pieces I have to reverse engineer a die for the extrusion.

    Thanks for any input.
    Last edited by tlorber; 06-18-2010 at 10:12 AM.

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    Why not check what DOES exist before you re-invent the wheel?

    McMaster-Carr, Graingers, are but two re-sellers of extruded products. You may even find the exact profile or so close to exact that it's function is identical.

    FWIW
    E

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    JC Whitney supposedly sold the proper size/profile relatively inexpensive but I'll be damned if I could find it on their site.
    Bart

    5/71 240z, HLS30-31306, mostly stock, ZTherapy SU's, Pertronix, Eibach ProKit, KYB, Poly bushings, 60 amp alternator w/Dave's plug bypass, headlight and parking light harness upgrades.

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    I've checked JC Whitney and haven't found it there either. I've checked the other suppliers and their applications appear nowhere close to what we have. For example, one of the sites only handles vintage american aftermarket parts. Most squeegees, like the Datsun Roadster either slip over a groove or into a track.

    I guess my question is not so much on the supply side as the demand side. Is this just not a big enough issue for people to worry about replacing, or does everyone just drop the 2 bills and get on with it? If that were the only seal to replace I could live with it, but by the time you spend $200 here and $380 there on stuff that doesn't even enhance performance, it seems there has to be a more cost effective way.

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    Default Door Squeegee

    I too have perfect metal pieces but the rubber crumbled away. I would like to just replace the rubber but then how to attach it. The glue by itself would not hold up and there is no way to re-staple the pieces. or is there another way to attach them?

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    Small rivets?
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    Is there a picture anywhere that is a closeup of the rubber and the metal molding and how they are put together? Both ends have a flat spot of metal, could that be drilled and a rod mounted all the way through (not sure it would help)? I have heard drilling stainless is a challenge. One of my squeegees does not contact the window at all; it appears to be too short.

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    Any success with locating a supplier of just the rubber? I have rain pouring down my passenger size window into the door.

    Replacing the rubber is a simple process of removing the staples, the steel strip, then the rubber. Then it would be simple enough to just drill, using the staple holes as a guide, out some holes large enough for small rivets. I've rebuilt the hold stainless strip using a window squeegee from a Volvo 740, but it's a pretty "meh" fit and it was sort of a pain in the ass to get it set up as the Volvo's rubber fits in a groove while the Z's is obviously stapled; so there's some finessing that needs to be done.. right now it is just a hold over until I get actual rubber.

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    I got mine at DATSUNLANDSOCAL part # D001 48 $ for the pair plus s/h ,,phone # 714 393 0273. They require the removal of the staple that holds them to the SS frame and they provide the clips that holds the rubber to the frame.
    Last edited by 72 OJ; 02-07-2012 at 03:24 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 72 OJ View Post
    I got mine at DATSUNLANDSOCAL part # D001 48 $ for the pair plus s/h ,,phone # 714 393 0273. They require the removal of the staple that holds them to the SS frame and they provide the clips that holds the rubber to the frame.
    really I am going to look into that.

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    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Do they sell internationally? I had my driver side rubber vaporized but i dont want to buy that expensive chrome strip for new rubber, current chrome is in mint condition..
    Last edited by Reverend; 02-08-2012 at 03:50 AM.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    72OJ, Have you put them on yet? did they work well? I am thinking of buying them but I don't want to jump the gun.

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    Default i bought mine from black dragon 49 bucks

    it included the chrome strip. no need to staple your own.


    http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icata...l.aspx?Page=17
    Last edited by hr369; 02-21-2012 at 05:06 AM.

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    I ordered a set from black dragon and ity was about $110 shipped for the pair for my 71. Not too bad IMO. They are great quality as far as looks and build. Have not put them on as my car is in pieces waiting for paint. I have the set I took off my car and they are in pretty good shape. Chrome is mint and the rubber is just a bit hard but complete and not falling apart. PM me if you are interested in them.
    1971 240z White VIN: HLS30 10068 L24 013529 E31 09/70

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    Yes I was able to installed them, they seem to do their job and they look fine but not close to stock.

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    I received and installed the squeegees today. I would give them a 75 out of a 100 score. Considering they are about 1/3 the price of new molding strips, that's not bad. Also, one of them had a small gouge in the rubber that would be visible. I am not one to return things due to my lack of patience, so I used them anyway.

    Door Window Squeegee-04272012126-xl.jpg

    1) Remove the moldings from the car by prying on the rear portion with a plastic putty knife. Pull it up and work forwards by hand. (careful not to drop the window roller into the door. A magnet will retrieve it )
    2) Use an awl to bend open the staples, and raise them up.
    3) Snip the staples with a cutter.
    4) Line up the new rubber strips at the back of the chrome molding, note where the original strips began.
    4b) TIP: To match the slight curve of the original chrome molding, snip the new rubber strip as shown, in one or two places. (photo 5 below)
    5) Press on the retainer clips, longer side of the retainer should go inside the molding channel.
    6) Trim the angle into the forward edge of the new rubber to match the originals.
    7) Reinstall onto door.
    14) Why don't these instructions come with the strips?????


    Door Window Squeegee-04272012127-xl.jpg Door Window Squeegee-04282012131-xl.jpg

    Door Window Squeegee-04282012132-xl.jpg Door Window Squeegee-04282012134-xl.jpg

    Door Window Squeegee-04282012145-xl.jpg Door Window Squeegee-04282012138-xl.jpg

    Door Window Squeegee-04282012139-xl.jpg Door Window Squeegee-04282012142-xl.jpg

    Door Window Squeegee-04282012147-xl.jpg

    Comments: The window stays up tighter now and does not drop down while driving at all. When the window is partially rolled down, it does not rattle over bumps. With the windows shut, the door closes with a more solid sound from the window being more tightly held in place. Looks fine to me. It took about 1:15 to do both sides. A few more retainer clips would be nice and make sure you don't place them over the OEM molding clips inside the chrome trim. Keep all forces in check. Don't strong-arm anything or you could dent your moldings. Hammer on the new clips with a hammer's wood handle, while holding the assembly in your other hand. Gentle!
    Last edited by cygnusx1; 04-28-2012 at 09:58 PM.
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    Dave:
    Nice write-up and pictorial documentation.

    Just might deserve to be a Tech Article.

    I want to do a bit more checking, but Blue may be the best to ask as to the problems he encountered when we changed a few of his posts to Tech Articles.

    E
    Last edited by EScanlon; 04-28-2012 at 10:05 PM.

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    Thanks, feel free to "use the force" and move the post if you want to. Might want to link to it, in this thread.
    Dave C, Putnam, NY
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    That's the rub. From what Blue mentioned to me, it's ok to put it up as a Tech, but then there are problems with the additional comments people make. Have to ask Arne and Mike if there's a problem or something we need to do different when upgrading a post to a Tech.

    Nicely done though.

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    Cygnus, I am asuming these are the ones from Datsunlandsocal that OJ was refering to. No?

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    Yup there is a link hidden in my first line. http://www.datsunlandsocal.com/mm5/m...duct_Code=D001
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    cygnusx1, the seals you bought are those from Datsunsocal ? Just confirming!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cygnusx1 View Post
    Yup there is a link hidden in my first line. http://www.datsunlandsocal.com/mm5/m...duct_Code=D001

    I order a set. Though they do not look identical to the stock ones the price is right, I get to preserve the original SS and I will be happy to finally be rid of the brittle crumbled ones on my car that do not seal. Thanks for the write up.

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    I installed my squeegees a few years ago. They went on easily enough, but there is the smallest of gaps between the rubber and the glass.

    Should the rubber be pressing on the glass? Maybe the piece wasn't on exactly as required, and needed a little angling-in to make the contact. It seemed the only way the parts would go on, and I tried to put it in a little, but it's firmly fixed in the attitude it went on.

    I suppose if it rained hard, some water would get down into the door, and drain out if there was enough, but that doesn't seem to be the purpose of the rubber...
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    Their purpose is to keep the water from getting the door. They pressed against the glass on my 78 and I just installed a set on my El Camino and they press against the glass on it also.
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    I don't think their purpose is truly to keep water out. There is no way they can really do that. I think they provide a flexible stop against the glass to keep it from moving around, and maybe to clean it a bit. If you look at the glass when the window is down, it is farther from the (non flexible, dried out, rigid like mine are) squeegee, creating a gap. When it goes up it rubs more tightly against the squeegee. I assume that with new rubber there is always contact against the glass-even when the window is almost fully open.

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    Well, maybe that's not their main function but when both the inner felt and the outer sweep are in proper condition, they do keep the majority of the water out.
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    Yes they attempt to keep water out, and keep the window stable in any position. Mine do, reach the window and provide weather protection. There are no gaps at the glass.

    It's a bit confusing when you put these onto the chrome strip. There is a small lip on the outboard edge that should rest on top of the chrome trim, not under it's edge. If you put it too low, it may very well not reach the window, and the clips will not be holding very well either.

    Note the small rubber edge that rests on TOP of the edge of the chrome.
    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/a...8&d=1335674008
    Last edited by cygnusx1; 05-02-2012 at 01:30 PM.
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    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Anyone has picture of BD strip? id love to compare and deciede which to order. Thanks.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    I got mine in the mail today. I have installed one side and I am not really pleased. It does seal up to the glass well but in on area it does not seal to the SS trim piece. I may rethink my installation technique for the other side. It just is not quite the correct profile, sort of like a stock molding that just happened to sort of fit. It does not extend over the SS peice very much and sits low on the door glass.

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    Yes, if there are bends in the rubber part, it wont sit flat against the chrome. I had to take out bends in the rubber part before I started. Note that there is a metal stiffener molded into the lower part of the squeegee, for those that are reading this. I think two or three more clips would be nice to keep it from leaving gaps. Try to move the clips around a bit.

    I agree, it's not ideal and I almost was going to put them back in the box and send them back, but when all was said and done, they function well, and look decent installed.
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    I was thinking of using weather strip adhesive in addition to the clips at least to hold it firm to the SS piece. I am also thinking of putting a long strip of material between the stiffener and SS as a spacer to change the angle a tad.
    perhaps one day I will get the ones from BD but I have read mixed reviews on those also. Yes it would be nice if someone had a picture of them.
    Last edited by grantf; 05-08-2012 at 05:49 PM.

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    So I pretty much did what grantf suggested but went one step further. For the spacer I used a piece of old bicycle inner tube. I did use weather strip adhesive both to hold the inner tube to the squeegee and to act as a water seal between the squeegee and the trim piece. Finally, I decided I didn't think the supplied clips were going to keep it even enough, so I used staples.

    My steps:
    1) I narrowed the side of the squeegee that mounts to the trim. I don't think you really need to do this, but it made using the clips a bit easier.
    2) I used weather strip adhesive to glue the inner tube to the squeegee.
    3) I used weather strip adhesive to try and seal the joint between the squeegee and the trim piece.
    4) I used the supplied clips to hold the squeegee in place while I inserted the staples.
    5) I made a little template/fixture with holes spaced to match my staple width.
    (staples were for a T50 stapler and are 3/8" long)
    6) I used a backing piece of wood and carefully drilled the holes using my template. I was especially careful not to drill through the outside of the trim piece which would ruin your day!
    7) I inserted the staples and used a needle nose pliers to both compress the inner tube/squeegee "sandwich" and start bending over the staple.
    8) Repeated the process on both ends of the staple and then bent the legs flush against the trim piece.

    You can see the added rubber piece in the first picture as well as the template.
    The second picture shows the wood backing plate. Drill carefully!
    The third shows the staple before squeezing it.
    The fourth shows a couple of staples after squeezing them.

    Door Window Squeegee-img_2456.jpg
    Door Window Squeegee-img_2457.jpg
    Door Window Squeegee-img_2458.jpg
    Door Window Squeegee-img_2460.jpg
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    That is exactly were I was thinking of putting the spacer strip. I had not thought up a material yet. So the rubber you used was to change the angle not move the squeegee out from the SS, correct?

    I sort of like the clips but as cygnus said more would be nice. I wonder where I might find more someplace.
    Last edited by grantf; 05-09-2012 at 05:32 PM.

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    I just used the rubber to move the squeegee out. It didn't change the angle unless you are comparing it to the way Dave mounted his with the little lip over the top of the trim. I put the rubber in to move the squeegee closer to the window while keeping the natural angle of the new squeegee.
    The LaZarus Project
    '72 240Z Complete Rebuild


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