Removing Heater control panel??

[EricB]

I did searches for "removing radio" "removing stereo" and "removing heater (control panel)" and have not turned up anything useful.....

I am looking to remove my circa '82 pioneer tape deck for an original Datsun Hitachi AM/FM radio I just got my hands on...

I've removed the center console, I've removed the buttons & knobs for the Heater Control, I've removed the face/trim of the Pioneer deck, I've removed the 4 screws that hold the HVAC panel in & have removed the map light...

Yet the HAVC panel appears to still be connected to the Heater control unit.... How do I remove them such that I can get better access for removing the junky Pioneer deck??

Would it be helpful if I posted a pic to show how far I've gotten?...

Thanks all....

[Victor Laury]

It's not too hard really. You'll want to have a 90 degree screwdiver. Release all four control cables. 2 on the passenger side, then the other 2 on the driver's side. I'm close to 300 pounds myself and can get to the cable clamps pretty well. It's a ten minute job.

[EricB]

oooooh..... a 90° screwdriver, huh? hmmm... well where does one get that from? ok well then let me look at it again with that info....

i got your PM too btw - thanks for the offer to help. Let me see if I can manage it myself first.... :)

-e

[Victor Laury]

You'll have the best opportunity to lube the heater cables and control sliders! Use some Teflon spray cable lube (SuperLube?) from a bike store and some white lithium grease for the slider mechanism. And when your finished - SMOOTH OPERATOR!

The 90 degree screwdriver is a $3.00 affair from pepboys or Kragans or where ever! the best ones are the ratcheting ones from Craftsman. Be sure to use some penetrant juice on those screws before you try to tackle them. Don't want to strip out the Phillips slots!

Hopefully they didn't cut up the radio faceplate for the old radio install! Most times they did, and it just about ruins any plans to go back to stock. This wasn't a concern for me, replacing a Radio-Shackup cheapy with the fancy-smanzy JVC!

[EScanlon]

It's much easier to remove the four cables attached to the Heater Controls from the devices they actuate and then remove the panel as an assembly.

The 4 cables are connected 2 on the left side of the heater box itself, 1 on the right of the box to the water control valve and the last one, the longest goes to the fresh air flap which is behind the fan motor housing.

Once you have those 4 cables removed, you can just remove the 4 screws holding it and the map light after having removed the nuts holding the radio faceplate and radio. Then it's a simple pull and disconnect the harness to the heater switch. If you have the illuminated panel then you only need to also disconnect the light wire plug.

Using the 9_0° screwdriver works, but I honestly find that to be a major pain to reach in there and get the bit into the screw AND try turning it. Having had the console and dash out several times, trust me on this one, it's fastest to remove the cables at their ends than trying to disassemble the heater control plate.

While you are in there, do yourself a favor and check all your instrument light bulbs. Then if you are really ambitious, disassemble them and paint the insides of the cases white, they'll shine brighter and you'll really appreciate what you've done.

Good Luck, feel free to post if you have further questions.

Enrique

[Victor Laury]

Enrique,

That's what I'm talking about. Not taking the panel apart! I guess I wasn't clear?

The 90 degree screwdiver is for the heat control lever. Since the blower housing in so close, It's the only thing I found to get at the screw. The other three are pretty easy.

[EricB]

thanks for all the great input!!
will do all of this today...

-e

[EScanlon]

No problem Victor.

Unfortunately at another site there was a post where the responder suggested removing the heater cable control unit from the back of the face plate in order to remove the face plate from the dash. Since this is next to impossible for a normal human with only one elbow and one wrist on each arm, I had to reply.

Upon rereading your post, it may have been my misperception of what you posted. In either case, it's a good reply to him from both of us.

[Victor Laury]

Unfortunately at another site there was a post where the responder suggested removing the heater cable control unit from the back of the face plate in order to remove the face plate from the dash.

I must admit, when I first did this job I considered using this method - for about 10 seconds! Then I changed my mind and figured It was much better to release the cables. I've got three or so heater/radio panels downstairs, hanging from the ceiling by the cables like spiders.

[EScanlon]

Well, you learn something new every time you try to do something slightly different with the Z.

I own a 71 240. The original dash had several nasty cracks that would be a pain to fix, let alone do them right. I also own a 72 parts car which had a pristine dash. Difference between the two was only in the lack of the Hazard Switch Label Indent on the 71 dash that the 72 DID have. Or so I thought.

Wanting to "upgrade" my console area, I purchase a Heater Control Panel for a 73. This panel is illuminated and it has the same basic shape / look as the 70-72.

However, it is slightly different.

The Heater Cable Control Bracket, which is the metal part for the control arms and the light bulbs is just about 1/8 to 1/4" wider than the face plate.

This becomes a CRITICAL difference when you consider how the panel and console are assembled.

Most people tell you to install the center console first, THEN the radio followed by the Heater Control Panel.

With the original 70-72 Heater Control Panel and Cable Control Unit, this is not a problem as the unit will slide right in. (Granted you have to guide the cables in.) With the 73, that difference in the Cable Bracket makes it IMPOSSIBLE to slide in. You must instead NOT install the console first. You first install the radio, then you insert the cables and then slide the Heater Control Panel UP into place. Once there, you can secure and very carefully install the console.

Now, if you have a 70 or 71 Dash, it's possible that this will not be a problem for you. However, if you have a 72 dash, it's more than likely you WILL have this problem when installing the 73 HC Panel.

The 70 / 71 dash has a very subtle lip for the HC Panel to rest against. In fact, it's covered up with the vinyl that covers the entire dash. You can feel the edge of the supporting metal, but it is at best a slight ridge.

On the 72 dash, this lip is now a distinctive EDGE, and the vinyl is cut right at the edge. The lip is approximately 3/16" wide on each side. I had considered grinding it off, or even hammering it down, but decided that that may create more problems than it's worth.

So, live and learn.

[cardogman1]

funny you should ask I just did that yesyerday. What a pain in the i can't say it on this sight. Whats holding you back is the slider cables to the heater box there still atached. You have to take down the heater assembly underneath the glove box on the passenger footwell. The cable go back on the way you detatched them. Be careful of the fan switch knob. When you pass it's stem back through the hole you have to line it up so that the little whole inthe stem that the tiny screw goes through the knob and then the stem is calibrated or positioned so the white arrow lines up to "off" or you will be playing with this until you go insane. Don't crack the plate it's very thin on the bottom. If you need any other suggestions email me I had the darn thing off yesterday.

regards burt

[EScanlon]

There's no need to remove the Fan Switch from the Panel. Doing so just guarantees you the problems you had.

The whole Heater Control Panel h the Control Lever Assembly and Cables AND Switch come off as an assembly.

2¢

[cardogman1]

enrique

don't ypu have to remove the fan knob that goes to the switch along with all the slider knobs to get the face plate off to remove the radio. When we changed the heater core we had to disassemble all of that to get to the core. It would be the same if you had to exchange radios.

Burt

[kmack]

You shouldn't have to remove anything off the fan switch when removing the control panel. I never have.

And you only have to remove the knobs off the heater controls if you're disconnecting the the slider assembly from the back of the control panel. In EScanlon's description, you wouldn't even have to do that.

When I always removed mine, I would disconnect the slider assembly from the control panel only because I had a hard time keeping my cables working properly. Once I got them connected to the right levers and working right, I never wanted to disconnect them again. There are 4 small phillips-head screws that hold the slider assembly onto the back of the control panel. They are easy to remove, but a little more difficult to hook back up.

[albert_ey]

I just added today and found exactly what I needed here! Thanks a bunch

[Ramses]

Escalon,

Do you still have the '73 Dash? If so, will you sell it?

[Ramses]

You dont have to remove the heater control dash when changing out the radio. I have found that if you remove the 5 screws on the console, remove the 2 screws holding the choke on to the console, move the console out of the way and move the fuse box out of the way you should have enough room to drop the radio from the mounting bracket by getting to the 2 screws on either side of the heater control. It sounds like it is more difficult, but you dont have to lable the cables for the heater. IMHO it is just easier to access than reaching under the dash, to get the the heater control cables.

[Wobbles1971]

If all your doing is changing out the radio it should be alot easier to do without dissasembly of the whole center unit. Radio is accesable with enough angling, and blind sighted reaching into the cavity of the console. Sounds like your well on your way taking it all apart so I wish you luck, but if you havent Id really grab a flashlight and look around from the sides and see if you can do it without.

[EScanlon]

Ramses:
Sorry, didn't have the 73 dash at all. I purchased the HCP from e-Bay (the lighted one) and fitted it to my 72 dash from a parts car. The 71 dash for my car is currently in storage awaiting $ to be properly restored.

As far as being able to remove the radio without removing the HCP, it also depends on whether the lower portion of the HCP has been cut away by the IPO. If it has, and it's only the clamping of the radio's faceplate and backing plate that are holding the radio to the HCP, then you might be able to get the radio out without removing the HCP.

If on the other hand, the HCP still has the lower band of plastic chrome, you might break it trying to get the radio out. There's only a small amount of space back there, and the side brackets to hold the radio preclude much wiggling room.

FWIW
E

[rdefabri]

Damn - I wish I'd seen this before getting "adventurous"...I just scored an original Hitachi radio and in my excitement (and haste), I removed the 4 screws and tugged at the HCP before realizing the sliders had cables attached.

Not wishing to damage anything, I re-attached the HCP, but it looked like there was some resistance on the top slider (almost like a bulge in the HCP). Like an idiot, I pressed on the bulge and proceeded to crack my HCP. Minor, but cracked nonetheless and I am pizzed. I am a moron for doing that.

In any event, as king moron, much of what's being described above isn't coming to me - anyone have pictures as a reference point? Where do I disconnect the slider cables - behind the HCP or down below at the blower unit?

[EScanlon]

You can't disconnect the cables AT the HCP levers without un-bending the "Z" bend in the cable or cutting it.

The only option is to disconnect the four cables, both at the Heater Unit and at the Blower.

E

[rdefabri]

Ok, make sense - how do you know which cable corresponds to the control levers? Someone made a comment about marking them, which should be easy enough (activate the lever to see which cable it moves, then mark) - is that correct?

[Bonzi Lon]

When I removed mine I didn't mark them as there was only one way they would match back up, as in the length of each was different. Just a bear getting to all of the clamps and using the offset screwdriver which is a must. Removing the seats is a great help.

Bonzi Lon

[EScanlon]

For others who may want further reading:

Here's a few links to several articles that address what you're doing.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=6981

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=4429

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=7291

HTH
E

[adamr]

BTW, anyone who needs heater control cables, or lost a knob screw, you can get these replacement parts at:

www.new-datsun-parts.com/

Carl was very professional. He also may have parts not listed, and seems to have a line on new stuff when he runs out.

[adamr]

BTW, anyone who needs heater control cables, or lost a knob screw, you can get these replacement parts at:

www.new-datsun-parts.com/

Carl was very professional. He also may have parts not listed, and seems to have a line on new stuff when he runs out.

[adamr]

Enrique,

As usual, you are a big help. I have been putting off the intsallation of my NOS heater control panel. I got the new cables. I agree that disconnecting at the vents is much easier, but cannot seem to get to the one which opens the vent to the blower motor "chamber". Do you know a midget with small hands? I have an older aftermarket a/c. That and the blower casing make it impossible to access the screw to undo the cable.

Do I have to try to remove EVERYTHING under my glove box (which has been removed and awaits install)? I hope not. I did the Honda blower motor upgrade. It really kicks ass. So, I have really been looking forward to completing this installation. With that and my series one AM radio, my interior will be complete.

For others who may want further reading:

Here's a few links to several articles that address what you're doing.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=6981

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=4429

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=7291

HTH
E

[EScanlon]

For others who may want further reading:

Here's a few links to several articles that address what you're doing.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=6981

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=4429

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=7291

HTH
E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=6981

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=4429

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7291

Apparently the software that "shrinks" the URL has changed and now "t=" needs to be "threadid=".

Interesting that the software is still there to shrink URL's but not smart enough to update and correct itself due to the change.

I wonder just how many hundreds of similar URL links all over the threads are now .... dead.

2¢
E

[EScanlon]

Adam:
Don't know that I can offer much help on this one as I haven't dealt with an AC Z car for years. (By the way that acronym rolls of the tongue... AC Z!)

I do recall removing the cable behind the blower motor housing from a car with AC in the boneyard years ago, and other than having to "feel" your way there and using a 90° screwdriver (or a very short stubby, like a P2 bit in a holder), I can't suggest anything there.

Lying on the floor and looking up, or using some inspection mirrors might help, but don't know that I can offer much more.

Anyone else out there that may shed some light?

E

[adamr]

I can see it, I simply cannot get my hands back there. I'll get on it before the end of next week, I hope. Nothing will stop me from driving my ACZ in Big D when it's 103 degrees. You with me, "E"?

Adam:
Don't know that I can offer much help on this one as I haven't dealt with an AC Z car for years. (By the way that acronym rolls of the tongue... AC Z!)

I do recall removing the cable behind the blower motor housing from a car with AC in the boneyard years ago, and other than having to "feel" your way there and using a 90° screwdriver (or a very short stubby, like a P2 bit in a holder), I can't suggest anything there.

Lying on the floor and looking up, or using some inspection mirrors might help, but don't know that I can offer much more.

Anyone else out there that may shed some light?

E

[rdefabri]

You can't disconnect the cables AT the HCP levers without un-bending the "Z" bend in the cable or cutting it.

The only option is to disconnect the four cables, both at the Heater Unit and at the Blower.

E

I posted a different thread on this - I've (finally) got my OEM radio in. I used the method described in this thread of removing the console and moving the fuse box - works fine.

However, to reinstall the radio face plate and ensure no further damage to my HCP (cracked be me in haste as noted earlier in this thread) I removed it with cables attached. I still have a bulge now that it's reinstalled, which may have been from the previous hasty effort to remove it without cable detachment.

Could I have "un-bent" (is that a word?) the Z-bend? For some reason a) the HCP has a bulge and b) the top slider is REALLLLLY stiff. I am sure I screwed something up.

Sorry for posting this on a separate thread, but it was consistent with the info here.

[rdefabri]

Figured it out - the slider assembly that attaches to the back of the HCP was bent slightly. Bent it back and it's now - no bulge!

[EScanlon]

Addendum:

Information not found in this article:

The 4 cables are connected 2 on the left side of the heater box itself, 1 on the right of the box to the water control valve and the last one, the longest goes to the fresh air flap which is behind the fan motor housing.

Take note that there are FOUR cables and THREE levers. One of the levers actuates TWO cables and that is the TOP lever. The other two levers are single cables.

The top lever controls
a) the fresh air vent that opens at the firewall vent valve behind the heater blower motor (the longest cable)
AND
b) the internal flap valve that ducts the air through the heater core OR straight through to the side and center vents in the dash. (the cable connected to the uppermost connection on the heater box on the left side)
(FYI: There is NO position for the heat to flow out of the side and center vents, you will only get fresh air ... or not.)

The middle lever controls the hot water valve. (right side of heater)

The bottom lever controls the two side doors on the heater box (left lower side of heater box). When the doors are shut the air is forced through to the defroster ducts, otherwise the air is allowed out to the "room".

Hope this helps
Enrique