Ebay Discussions Forum

[Mike]

Hi all,

I just created this forum and dedicated it to the discussion of items on the Ebay website. Please keep in mind that this is not a for sale forum, so, please post your for sale items in our classifieds.

Thanks!

Mike

[LoneStarBQ]

Unfortunately, I just got my 240Z and Ebay was the easiest place to find some of the parts I needed. I have made the mistake of not looking good enough for the right parts at the right price. I have learned my lesson, but it was probably an expensive one.

[geezer]

Unfortunately, I just got my 240Z and Ebay was the easiest place to find some of the parts I needed. I have made the mistake of not looking good enough for the right parts at the right price. I have learned my lesson, but it was probably an expensive one.

We all learn eventually, how to get the best deals. Some of it is plain luck on Ebay, but ask any of the veteran Z guys on this site and they will point you to the Nissan dealer for many parts. But as many parts become unobtainable at the dealer Ebay becomes an option that has some grey areas. Exorbant shipping fees is one of these grey areas I would like to see eliminated. It is up to us as smart buyers to take this out of the equation.

I have seen an increase in the number of sellers who state that they charge "actual cost of shipping". This is a definite selling point for me. I don't mind paying a modest amount for packing materials or other expenses incurred by the seller either, as long as it seems reasonable and is stated in the terms of the sale. The point being, any seller that lays out the terms ahead of the sale, is allowing us to make an informed decision. There is less chance of any problems when you know the final cost isn't going to be padded by the whim of the seller.

The convenience of finding something quickly and recieving it quickly is another way you may overpay for an item. I have learned to be patient and play the waiting game, but I guess some people "need it now".

[hls30.com]

I figured I would jump in here with my agreement to everything above.
Here is a terrific guide from ebay on buying Datsun parts:

"In restoring your Datsun(or any other collector car), you will often need replacement parts, and that will frequently bring you to ebay as an excellent source for both new old stock and used parts. This Guide will help you get the best and most parts for the least money, by helping you identify and avoid sellers that are not interested in a good deal for both parties.

Of the many new old stock parts listed in any ad as NLA and hard to locate, or rare, a healthy number are still available through your local Nissan Dealer, many times at a lower price than you will find on ebay (sellers buy them at their local dealer, and aim to sell them on ebay for a profit). A pretty good indication of whether or not a NOS part is still available is the inclusion of the actual nissan part number in the description of the item. If a seller does not include a part number on a part that has its' packaging pictured, more than likely the part is still available-though including a part number does not always mean that the part number listed is necessarily correct for the part pictured, or that the part is not rare or NLA. Do your home work, verify the part number, and research whether or not the part is actually rare. There are several places on the web that partnumbers-and prices-can be checked.

Remember that many Datsuns are very popular and finding and joining a Z, Roadster, 510 or pertinant club is free! The clubs are a great source of information about not only parts rareity, prices, part numbers, but also reputations of sellers, and how to take care of your car. The clubs are an oustanding resource, and will help you save your money for the parts that are truely difficult to find!

On used parts, there are frequently communication problems with the condition of a part, one well versed ebay seller classifies any hood without a rust through as a 9/10, regardless of any dents or non permeating rust that are present in the hood. To me a 9/10 means that the hood will have a few small dents in the low curvature areas(not on or near a corner, edge or in an area inaccessable from the other side). I see a 10 of 10 as a hood that only needs paint, it has no rust, no dents, and includes a latch in similarly excellent shape. Any rust means the hood will be no better than an 8/10-any rust throughs, and we are down to a 6. Some sellers see any useable 30 yearold part as being in excellent condition if it has just survived to be sold-regardless of wear, cracks, modifications, or discoloration. To me a 10/10 is ready to paint and bolt into a winning show car with out lowering its judging. The part should be as perfect as a new one from the dealer would be. a 9/10 needs cleaning and some slight detail work, the lower the quality, the more time that would be needed to bring the part up to the standard of a 9/10. Always rely on the pictures in an auction to tell the quality of a used part first. If the words don't match the picture, question the seller. If the pictures aren't good, ask for more. If the pictures are better than the description, question the seller. Ask about returning a part if it does not measure up to its ad-but remember, a seller who uses jacked up shipping makes more selling and taking back a bad part three of four times than is possible selling the part legitimately once! Shipping charges can make or break what looks like a great price on both new old stock and used parts! Also, shipping charges that are obscene are against ebay policies-report the seller, and let ebay "fix" his problem. If an item is labeled as being shipped UPS and it comes FEDEX, check the differences in shipping charges and ask for a refund-according to member of a Classic Z cars club, shipping a 240Z dash to Washington was $129 via UPS and $35 via FEDEX. I am sure ebay could fix misrepresentation too.

Use all of the tools you have to determine the value and the actual costs of the parts you want before you bid.

1) Verify the part is what it is advertised to be-compare any photos to the written ad, and question any differences, and see if the part is rare or NLA.

2) Verify the actual costs that will be added to the winning bid

3) At payment time, verify you can get your money back AND your hands on the seller if things don't work out. If you can't verify information is correct from his local phone book(or a reverse lookup), a confirmed and verified paypal account, long-term and active club membership, historical feedback, you will probably not get your money back. I am not saying find out everyhting about your seller, but you want to insure that a problem with the item in a winning bid does not become a problem with loosing your money too! If a seller hides hides his feedback, it usually means he isn't proud of what it shows, if a seller hides his bidders, it usually means there are games afoot. You only hide what you don't want people to see."

Will

[Sailor Bob]

Speaking of Datsun parts - he has the 240 listed again at $20k.

[hls30.com]

Speaking of Datsun parts - he has the 240 listed again at $20k.


Datsun-Parts, the guy trying to sell the car is Not the guy that wrote the guide I quoted-it was written by DatsunZCarParts.
Datsun-Parts I wouldn't buy anything from, ever!.

DatsunZCarParts I would buy anything from.

Will

[conedodger]

I cannot believe no one is bidding on the Factory Service Manual ending in two hours. These things used to go for 2 to 3 times his beginning bid price. It doesn't seem to have a cover though...

[Sailor Bob]

Sorry about that. We did manage to get the message out one more time though.

[DougN]

Shipping charges can make or break what looks like a great price on both new old stock and used parts! Also, shipping charges that are obscene are against ebay policies-report the seller, and let ebay "fix" his problem. If an item is labeled as being shipped UPS and it comes FEDEX, check the differences in shipping charges and ask for a refund-according to member of a Classic Z cars club, shipping a 240Z dash to Washington was $129 via UPS and $35 via FEDEX.


Just to clarify, UPS and FedEx charges for the same level of service are very close, maybe a dollar or two different, but nowhere near the gap Will states above. However, what I recommend, is going to the carrier's web site (USPS, FedEx or UPS) and getting your own quote for shipping, and comparing it to the seller's shipping costs. If they are way off, question the seller about it. Also, if you pay for next day air service, and the seller ships it ground or two day air, then you should definately get the cost difference back.

[geezer]

The title speaks for itself. I thought this was worth taking a look at since the vinyl roofs are so few & far between. Not suited to most, but interesting none the less, and could be a great project.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-1971-Datsun-240Z-Not-Started-Since-1985-Silver_W0QQitemZ160253922750QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em160253922750&

[Mike]

Guys, please don't hijack this thread.

[hls30.com]

Just to clarify, UPS and FedEx charges for the same level of service are very close, maybe a dollar or two different, but nowhere near the gap Will states above. However, what I recommend, is going to the carrier's web site (USPS, FedEx or UPS) and getting your own quote for shipping, and comparing it to the seller's shipping costs. If they are way off, question the seller about it. Also, if you pay for next day air service, and the seller ships it ground or two day air, then you should definately get the cost difference back.


Doug,
Before you tell everyone how no where near right I am.
Go to fedex.com and UPS.com-do a staffed counter drop off for a package weighing #35 and measuring 18x18x54-from 31405 to 99201 ground(the last package I shipped).
UPS 84.25 Fedex 69.82 $14 difference for dropping at Kinkos vs Office Depot(in the same shopping center). Granted this is not the same disparity in pricing I encountered before several years of fuel surcharges and other added costs. Still, using my accounts with both, the difference is even more than a couple($14) bucks-and I don't ship that much that often.

My original data came several years ago from shipping a dash to Dashtops USA, and I carried the same boxed Dash on the same day to both Counters near/at the Savannah Airport to ship ground-they were less than a couple of miles apart-the costs I gave were as given to me for ground delivery of the package to the same address-I took the least expensive-and the difference was exactly as I stated it in a thread on Dash Restoration.

I can appreciate your wanting to have correct info in the posts, and I should have included dates to make it obvious that pricing changes through time, but...every package of the last 10 I have shipped essentially across the nation(mostly sets of automotive wheels) have been at least 15% cheeper using Fedex in leu of UPS. I always check Fedex, UPS and Greyhound for boxes larger than Priority Mail Flat rate(carried by Fedex to the destination Post Office). I have yet to find UPS cheeper-and I do carry the boxes to Kinkos or Office Depot to save the buyers money-I charge actual shipping for USPS, and add a couple of bucks for Fedex/UPS-to cover the cost of my delivery to the counter, the return trip, and tape-works out cheeper than the costs for scheduling a pickup.
Will

PS admittedly I am not a frequent shipper, and I am sure there are times UPS will win the cost war, My experience has been FEDEX is cheeper 100% of the time-AS DOUG SAYS: your actual findings may vary-please check!

[geezer]

Sorry Mike, just realized I didn't start a new thread in this new forum. We are getting pelted with lightening & power outages. It messed me up.