Turn signal Malfunction

[visionary]

I have a small problem with my left turn signal I can not seem to run down. The signal has stopped working when I activate the turn signal lever on the steering column.

The hazard switch activates the signal and the parking/running lights work.

This leads me to believe it is the steering column switch that is malfunctioning.

Any opinions???

Keith:tapemouth

[2ManyZs]

Well, if the right ones flashes OK then it probably is in the switch. Before you start tearing it apart check one thing first, check to see if your steering column cover panels have moved and are not allowing the stalk to completely activate the switch. It's happened to me before, so try it and see what happens.

Try some spray contact cleaner into the switch before you start looking for another switch. They aren't cheap, unless you get lucky enough to find one used from the same year car. They have different plugs that connect to the wiring harness, so you will need to find one with the correct plugs. I know that there is a difference between 72 and 74, not sure how many are interchangeable.

[visionary]

It is always good to hear some support.

Actually, the cover panels are off as I have had to replace the light stalk on the column and have had to dismantle the ignition switch to remove the door key several times due to worn tumblers and worn levels of attention when inserting the correct key.

I am of the understanding from more knowledgable Z parts guru's that even different '73 versions have different switch harness connectors. I was able to go through a bucket of light stalks in Denver at Fortunz of Wheels to find one that worked on my '73.

I need to do some rewiring of harness conncetors because of "meltdown" that has occured in them over the years causing me to have to cut and splice individual wires that have been burned through in the old connectors, so, I think I will remove and disassemble the turn signal switch to see if I can rebuild the worn assembly. I was successful doing this with the original fan switch for the heater/AC.

Will update...

Keith

[2ManyZs]

OK, so much for my silly idea. Now for another one. Have you looked at the taillight bulbs? I have seen taillight bulbs blow a filament, and the filament breaks and crosses over to the other filament and causes all sorts of weird things to happen. I've seen a taillight short out all the lights on a trailer when I worked in a truck shop many years ago. Never hurts to look right?

Only other thing I can think of is to check the ground wire that connects the headlight and turn signal switch and the ground wires on the wiring harness in the engine compartment.

If it's not there then it probably will require some work and/or replacement of the switch at the stalk.

[zorro]

It could possibly be just the globe socket. Due to just deteriation over time via water and dirt the globe terminals won't connect properly. I have also had to change the socket wiring because it had gone hard and brittle and the current just wasn't getting through anymore. However this would some times be evident by a faster flashing signal on the other side of the vehicle.

Hope this helps..........;)

[visionary]

Gentlemen,

All of your suggestions of possible cause are viable, I think I will get out the volt meter and explore these potential causes prior to removing the signal stalk.

I had never heard of the filiment short before. The rear signal does function which is one of the baffling things about this...

thanks

keith

[EScanlon]

Ok, from the last post what I surmise is that it is only the FRONT signal that is not working. The rear component of the turn signal (left) IS working.

Therefore to summarize:

Both RIGHT hand lights work as they should, including the indicator in the Tach.

LEFT: only the indicator in Tach and the REAR light. The FRONT LEFT indicator is the only thing NOT working.

Conclusion: Turn Signal Flasher is operative, wiring through combination switch is ok for the rear, check wiring for left front, bulb check required left front, ground check required left front.

If this is correct, then there is only a couple items to check.

We need to do THESE simple checks FIRST, before we address the more complex issues suggested. This is Occam's Razor.

At the combination switch, look for a Green wire with a RED stripe (shorthand for this is Green/Red wire) Check continuity on that wire from the combo switch all the way to the light socket at the front of the car. If no problems, (also check for short to ground), then check to make sure the light socket has good contact to ground. That's the black wire at the socket, run continuity through it to ground. Lastly, check continuity on the bulb.

If ALL those check ok, then we can start looking at the other possibbilities, such as short to the parking light circuit. But I'll bet that this solves it.

[visionary]

This is the response I have been looking for. I have serveral wiring diagrams for my model and year configuration, however, what I have found to be true is that different systems are wired uniquely.

In other words, the A/C wiring matches the diagram out of the Haynes early model S30 diagram whereas the AT matches the late model diagram from Clymer manual.

My '73 was manufactured in 11/72 and seems to have different production components mixed throughout the systems.

I will pull my meter and long leads with aligator clips out tommorrow evening and pass the data back though this thread

A million thanks for the wiring codec.

Keith

[1 tuff z]

i had the same prob w/my z. what i did: checked all bulbs to insure correct bulbs in place, removed/lubricated and reinstalled signal actuator on column, finally-bought a new flasher unit. problem solved and signals work great.

hope this helps...

[Nigel Mulvey]

Over the past few months the indicators (turning lights) on my 240 have gradually ceased to function. Having read other posts, I decided to pull apart the indicator stalk assembly and clean the switches up a little - low and behold the indicators have started to work again albeit somewhat randomly. The only thing I didn't do was take apart the little contact assembly which clearly is the bit that needs a good cleaning. Because this small assembly is held together with a couple of tabs I didn't want to go pulling it apart and find that I couldn't reassemble the damn thing.

Can anyone tell me what is inside there? Is it straight forward to take apart and re-assemble or am I going to be confronted with fiddly little parts that I can't put back together or worse still - lose.

There must be a reason that the switch mechanism was assembled this way. I'm just wondering if it was to keep enthusiastic amateurs like me well away from it!

Thanks in advance!

[Bambikiller240]

On my car, all I had to do to fix this problem was to remove the plastic "surround" clamshell and spray Electrical contact cleaner all around and through the mechanical parts of the turn signal assembly to remove all the "FUZZ and crap that has collected in there. I then LIGHTLY re-lubricated places where moving metal parts contacted each other. I also sprayed the contact cleaner inside the switch that you mentioned.

That solved all of my problems, and they have not recurred for 3 years. It's cheap and easy! Give it a try.:D

[visionary]

Sorry about the delay on responses. Have been busy with much ado about nothing.

I was using the doctine of double effect otherwise known as the lesser of two evils in my troubleshooting of this problem.

However, the principle of Occam's Razor, "pluralitas non est penenda sine necessitate" or dont't create unnecessary entities, was in fact the correct application.

Thank you you saved me many troublesome hours of diagnostic torture.

Keith:stupid:

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by visionary
I was using the doctine of double effect otherwise known as the lesser of two evils in my troubleshooting of this problem.

However, the principle of Occam's Razor, "pluralitas non est penenda sine necessitate" or dont't create unnecessary entities, was in fact the correct application.



Huh?:cross-eye

[visionary]

I was responding to EScanlon's remarks concerning diagnostic method.

Keith

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by visionary
I was responding to EScanlon's remarks concerning diagnostic method.

Kinda figured that, was just wondering what language you were responding in!!!! Was that Ebonics? Vulcan? or.........? LOL

[2ManyZs]

I think he was trying to say it was something simple.... kinda like a slap on the forehead?

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by 2ManyZs
I think he was trying to say it was something simple.... kinda like a slap on the forehead?

Ouch! I wondered what that pain above my eyes was. :stupid:

"Tanks" (speel check still not working LOL )
Carl

[visionary]

Latin, we had to take it in high school...

[EScanlon]

Glad you solved it.

Occam's Razor is fancyspeak for K.I.S.S.. Everyone knows what Keep It Simple Stupid stands for, and although this is what Occam's Razor boils down to, sometimes, Occam's Razor is also used in reverse.

When I studied Mechanical Engineering we were taught that sometimes the most efficient mechanism is the simplest. i.e. least amount of moving parts, less complexity, etc.

Occam's Razor when applied to problem solving is simply to NOT confuse the problem by adding to it, but simply approach the items involved at that point without looking for more.

What Keith probably found was that either one of the bulb filaments at the front was burned out, or a bad wire connection up there.

[Nigel Mulvey]

Well said Enrique.

QED.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Nigel Mulvey
Well said Enrique.


...........................and in English too!!!!!!!!!! LOL
A fine example of K.I.S.S.

[visionary]

Let me keep this simple...

I have completed continuity checks on all wires to the turn signal and have continuity in all of the wires, both to the signal switch and to the parking light stalk switch.

The turn signal indicator works in the tach, UNTIL, I replace the bulb in the front turn signal socket, THEN the indicator in the tach fails. All bulbs are new, etc. I have not replaced the flasher pod or the hazard flash pod. Hazards work, signal does not work, parking light does not work, turn signal indicator works when turn signal bulb is removed from front socket, turn signal indicator does NOT work with bulb in socket, contiuity check OK on bulb cable socket, rear not malfunctioning...

At the risk of being to verbose, I will stop here.

Thanks

Keith

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by visionary
Let me keep this simple...

The turn signal indicator works in the tach, UNTIL, I replace the bulb in the front turn signal socket, THEN the indicator in the tach fails. All bulbs are new, etc.............. turn signal indicator works when turn signal bulb is removed from front socket, turn signal indicator does NOT work with bulb in socket, contiuity check OK on bulb cable socket, rear not malfunctioning.............

Keith:

Have you tried more than one bulb in the socket? COULD it possibly be a bad bulb? Does the other turn signal work? Have you swapped bulbs? I've purchased new bulbs before, and gotten a "lemon". BTW, is the socket clean and shiney, or all rusted up?

I'm not expert, but I can't imagine what else could be the problem.

[visionary]

Yeah Carl,

I have serveral bulbs and have switched them around. I also have another socket connector ( the one that runs from the harness on the front framerail to the turn signal) and have interchanged those with the same results.

I have found that the factory connector from the turn signal switch has begun to melt on the corner that the green/yellow wire connects at and am considering elimating the connector and replacing them with new single wire connectors.

This is a difficult failure to figure out. I think there may be short somewhere in the wiring, either at connection points, through the fuse box or from stresses of heat and/or wear within the harness over time.

Where, is the direction of diagnosis which I will proceed with. I will begin to run a bypass wire from switch to subsequent connection points on all wires until I can isolate a short point or an unreliable connection route.

If that doesn't work, I will throw money at the problem with a professional automotive electrition.

Will post any progress...

Keith:dead:

[Bambikiller240]

Hi Keith:

Wild Ass Guess....Have you examined the back of the fusebox to see if there is any sign of heat damage there at the fuse connectors? I've heard that this is a weak point in the electrical system and can raise havoc with components.

I'll be following your progress, as I need all the help I can get with electrical stuff. I "SAVE" a lot of information from member experiences to help me later.

Best of Luck!

Carl

[visionary]

Okay,

I have switched the front cable connectors to the turn signal bulb sockets and now I have parking lights. I also reconnected all of the underdash connection after cleaning and cleaned the rear bulb sockets (they had considerable buildup on them).

The battery has been drained to a point that there may not be enough voltage to engage the signals. No signal yet...will charge the battery and update...

Also put new bulbs in front signal sockets again.

Thanks.
Keith

[Mr Camouflage]

Sounds Frustrating. Hope you get it sorted.

My 72 240z indicates right most of the time, but if i move the lever too far down, it's like i've turned the indicator off. I know this is just a fault with the switch. My Solution dont push the lever all the way down.

My headlight switch was worn too. No headlights. I fixed that by pulling it apart and replacing the sprung plastic dooverlackies that push the copper switch plate down onto the contacts with plastic ones i had made.