Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,632 topics in this forum
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- 3 followers
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I went to the autobody supply store to day to pick up everything I need and the paint guy couldn't find a modern code for 920 Safari Gold, I have had them mix a few different Datsun colours over the years but he couldn't locate this one. Does anyone have a modern PPG or Dupont code for 920 Safari Gold? I could take one of the smaller panels down to them so they could scan it but the car has had a respray and is a different shade and the original paint looks like it has dulled down over the years. Thanks
Last reply by bpilati, -
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- 3 followers
- 2 replies
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Two questions on the five clipped fender washers on each side of the hood. Two questions: 1) Do these install with the flat up so that the washer is not as visible when the hood is closed, or do these install with the flat down to not interfere with the lower lip of the fender (just below the washers). 2) Can someone send me these two dimensions (A and B)?
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
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https://resurrectedclassics.com/en-ca/collections/sheet-metal/products/1970-1978-datsun-240z-260z-280z-steel-passenger-side-fender
Last reply by zed2, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
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I got some new rubber bumper for my car and I notice they don't match the originals in height. I got them from Z Car Source, I don't know if they are factory (nissan) part or some aftermarket. Can you find correct ones, who has them? The orange painted one is the orriginal
Last reply by zed2, -
- 3 followers
- 4 replies
- 417 views
I have started attaching the thin wire harness tabs (see previous thread) to the new floors of my 71 Z. And I am not too bold to admit my welding can suck sometimes. The repro harness tabs are intended to plug weld, so a standard plug weld was what I gave them. Now I can do a reasonable plug weld, but with these I am getting almost zero penetration into the thicker metal off. After welding all 7 down to the driver side floor, 6 easily popped off with a slight tug. I have the welder heat set to 2 (out of 4), which is how I normally weld the 18 gauge sheet steel. This setting has always provided me with good penetration. So I tried heat setting 3 and it unsurprisi…
Last reply by Broman, -
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OK, I am officially an idiot regarding these harness tabs. Looking back two years ago I inexplicably wrote "a close inspection of mine confirms that they were covered in their rubber casings AFTER the color coat. I read some folks who said the rubber coatings were painted body color, but that clearly was not the case with mine (5/71 240Z)." I cannot for the life of me recall which tab had body color UNDER the rubber. I sliced off all the dried and cracked rubber and every single one was bare metal underneath and the cleaner clearly had factory paint on the outside. I apologize for this knuckle headed error. Anyway... …
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 6 followers
- 40 replies
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As I posted in my build/project thread, I recently discovered some rust on the floor of my 280Z 2+2 when I lifted the carpets. The damage went previously unnoticed because the exterior frame and panels are undercoated. The worst of it is on the driver side, where there is a hole large enough that I can poke my finger through in between the foot rest and clutch pedal. There is also a long perforation and signs of deterioration running fore to aft in the approximate location of the frame rail, and a pencil sized hole just in front of the seat rail. It is hard to determine the damage from under the car because it is undercoated. The passenger side looks like it was repa…
Last reply by Paulytunes, -
- 4 followers
- 24 replies
- 946 views
Hey guys, any good source to get few D washers for fenders? I ordered them through McMaster and it is back ordered like hell 18-19 weeks!!! meaning you never get them. Worst case I have to cut few myself (probably should have done it 2 weeks ago instead of waiting!!!).
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
- 4 followers
- 11 replies
- 469 views
Guys this is after I had installed the main door seal. I can probably live with it. But seems like the lower edge is aligned and not the top. How does your fitment looks? Can this be fixed?
Last reply by Richie G, -
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- 151 views
Founds these on the web and had to angle them with a grinder. I had two missing. Thought someone might need them so sharing: https://yheng-hardware.en.made-in-china.com/product/pwJtVaxLVKkr/China-Stainless-Steel-M6-M8-M10-DIN186-T-Head-Bolt-T-Bolt.html
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
- 2 followers
- 13 replies
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Guys, this is the only rust area i have, the cowl. I am thinking of blasting it as the wire brush is not good enough. This is heavy rust but still no pitting like damage. Top is ok, Issue is how much i can blast on the lower area. Also i think the passenger side has air passage into the blower motor i believe? my blower motor and air heating works fine. I would assume all the media will just get into the blower motor and through that inn the ducts? How should i prevent that? or just seal that side and do it with hand, blast the center and driver side only?
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 312 views
Hello, I am currently in the process of disassembling my early, 12/73, 260Z and I have run into a concern I want to understand or correct before I remove the hood. Currently, after pulling the hood latch from inside the car I am then required to use a stiff plastic squeegee to pop the hood open. I place the squeegee between the cowl and the hood and apply what I consider to be a large amount of force to get the hood to pop up. Once that happens I then need to squeeze the male hood latch to its full extent and snatch up on the hood. I have adjusted both latches to their full amount of travel to release the pressure and at this point if I adjust the hood forward th…
Last reply by kickstand80,
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