Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I have a 72 with 3 screw SU's and they have the long and short arms in the float bowl lids. Long in front carb, short in rear. I intend to set the floats on my bench top by setting the lid with its float and gasket on top of a small clear drinking glass with a 23mm scribe mark at the correct spot. Can anyone tell me whether the distance between the inside of the float bowl lid and the top of the gas is 23mm for both the front and the rear carbs on a 1972, or is the front 23mm and the rear something less ? I'm looking for a definitive answer for myself and all my 72 brethren
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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The eastern seaboard is getting roasted lately, yesterday we hit 103 and I had parked the car in the sun after a spirited highway run. Like 15 min. later I got in started fine and off I went, I didn't make it a half a block when she started to go heavy lean so I ducked into a parking lot where it sputtered and died and I drifted into a shady spot and popped the hood. I got a gallon of water and cooled the carbs (twin su r/t's) fuel pump and hard lines. After a little coaxing I got her to start again and got myself to an air conditioned bar. Today its over 100 again, I did a short run to the gas station and the hardware store and back home. I parked in the sun for only 4 o…
Last reply by Tirnipgreen, -
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I have a question which has not been answered. Can one or two spark plugs that have been fouled due to traffic jam meaning some minutes of idle cause some random misfire? The reason i ask this is because the other day i experience some random misfire at 2nd and 3rd gear while cruising for a while after the engine experienced some idle during short stops and suddenly as i accelerated the misfire went away. Where should i look into? Im still considering it its worth replacing the fan clutch with twin electric fan to solve this issue or should i simply forget about this.
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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Hello everyone, making great progress on the Z. Two weekends ago we got the car running. We used starter fluid to start her up and then light throttle to keep her on. The week after I buttoned up most of the fuel lines and a quick spray of the starter fluid we got the engine running again and maintained with throttle. We tried to start it again yesterday and it started up without starter fluid. Yesterday I tried again, no luck, tried starter fluid but stays on then dies even with throttle application. We are getting fuel at the carbs, I am assuming there is a blockage from the float bowl to the dampers. Also I know for sure the timing is off but I wanted to set the ti…
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
- 5 followers
- 191 replies
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Installed my 40 DCOE webers on the L24: Engine specifications 2.4 liters original motor/head/cam. Pertronix ignition Pertronix 1.5 Ohm coil MSA 6-2-1 headers adjusted idle mixture screws 1/2 turn out Adjusted all idle speed screws (without actuator rods hooked up) until they were about to uncover the first progression hole I had at my disposal, an wideband O2 gage installed into my header (innovative LM1) and a Air Sychronizer tool with weber air horn adapter (note, air horn adapter not shown) My factory out of the box settings for my 40 DCOE 151's were: 30mm venturi 130 main Fuel Jet 170 Air corrector F11 Emulsion tube 55F9 idle/slow running mixture …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Any easy method of checking the fuel level in the float bowls of 3 screws round top SU CARBS? My car runs great at high speed but at idle it does not perform correctly.
Last reply by Randalla, -
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I'm getting ready to put the motor back in after a YEAR!! My dumb a** thought it would be a few months. Anyway, I'm getting the fuel supply worked out. Drained the year old gas from the tank, flushed the carbs then checked the float levels with clear tubing. Question? They're mounted level on a wall and the rear has a taller float valve (actually doubled up washers) so could you all look at my pictures and tell me what you think? The front is a little short but I think that may be because of the way they're mounted, level. I cut out the rotten fuel line under the battery too. Found a small pin hole. That stuff looks like zinc plated cop…
Last reply by Duffman, -
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Well I am over the top excited to be getting a set of 4 screw SU's done by Ztherapy! I kept my current set of carbs on the car as to have a good set to baseline all my readings, then I can get the new SU's on start tuning. I know the quality of the products put out by ZT, I am looking forward to getting them on, but any advice and things I should do first. Also any helpful advice on pitfalls in removing the intake? Thanks! Signed one excited Z car owner.
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
I am at my wit's end and need help on my 260Z race car. Ever since I got the car two years ago, I have had issues at high RPM and after trying lots of things, I'm pleading for help. Here's the engine background... L26 engine just rebuilt with new rings, valve job, and a mild cam Thermostat guts removed leaving only the ring and cage for a restriction Prior to rebuild a few weeks ago, it was 100% original 3 screw SU's with SM needles, floats set to spec and chokes working smoothly and carbs synchronized. N36 intake Previously used OE needles in carbs New mechanical fuel pump with 260Z electric pump removed Previously tried another new mechanical pump and an electric pu…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
I just purchased a fairly cheap set of SK Racing (not oer) carbs with 62mm horns. They look good and are all intact. My first idea was to put them to my Z but i need money now more than ever...I wonder what these are worth? Not many around and Made In Japan. That should say something about the quality.
Last reply by mildsquare, -
So, first of all, i've been gone from the car circles for a long time for certain reasons. Have forgot most what i learned about carbs and timing. Problem: last summer, i broke my distributor. Yes, it went broken. The collar that holds dizzy on place (with 2 10mm screws) was bent and eventually dizzy started to wiggle, so forth destroying all screw threads that were holding it to place. SO. I replaced it with similar kind of oem 240z distributor (no-points, custom made) and i just CANT make it run nicely. I have 3 SK/OER dual sidedrafts that were tuned last summer. Havent touched them since. I dont remember the basics of timing, but i have timing gun with igniton adva…
Last reply by Reverend, -
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I am trying to install a set of 40mm DCOE webers I got from MSA for my 240Z. The purpose is to get the fuel system up and running before my new L28 gets here. I have to say the carbs are beautiful. They came set up as follows: 30mm venturi 130 main Fuel Jet 170 Air corrector F11 Emulsion tube 55F9 idle/slow running mixture jet (I may have to double check this one, it was hard to read at night) Naturally it came with a Cannon manifold as standard fare. Here is where I noticed my first initial quality lapse. The cannon manifold had very noticeable casting/machining edges that protruded into the bore of each runner that I had to knock down with a file then sandpaper. I…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi,
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