Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
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I’m starting this restoration thread for enthusiasts of the early S30 Works rally cars, so they can follow along, and perhaps also provide comments and their own insights as to the very early days of the S30 Works rally program. I additionally hope that others can chime in with comments, questions, corrections, and feedback as we go along. A preamble: this is a thread about researching, documenting and restoring a genuine 1970 Works Rally car. I’ve owned it for many years, but the realities of real life were getting in the way of getting started on a proper restoration. Given the car's provenance, I knew it would be important to get the history and the details as…
Last reply by Zpenman, -
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So I happen to borrow a semi-professional steam cleaner machine from a car buddy in town to do a little carpet spot cleaning, and he happens to tell me how great it cleans car parts! So I have this 5 speed with a nice overall coating of 50 year old oil and crap all over it that I can just not “wait” to scrub manually, so I try it. This thing is magical! I knew steam is a common industrial cleaner, but never really considered it for home use. Well, my carpets are clean, and so is my transmission. The pics show one nice little area I cleaned with the rest of the dreary dirty stuff around it. This took about a minute. The cleaning end has a little stiff br…
Last reply by zKars, -
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I was hoping the rear will go in as easy as the front one, but no. If you see the right bracket on the rear bumper shock is a bit inside vs the left one which is pushed out (may be due to the shock?). What it does is I am not able to align the left bumper rubber guard with the left body bolt. The right one aligns fine. Is there an easy way to push the left rear bumper shock in a bit? also need to make sure it does not pop out as it will rip the side rubber boot. Any advise guys? I know there is not a lot of love for the rear bumper in the Z community but I am keep the stock look.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 5 followers
- 16 replies
- 764 views
This would be cool !! Likely too expensive for me. If it's ever available. https://www.hagerty.com/media/news/nissan-forgets-rb-engine-exists-develops-dohc-head-for-s30-z/
Last reply by HS30-H, -
- 4 followers
- 11 replies
- 402 views
A little quiz for you Zed trivia lovers. These are a couple of shots I just found recently while going thru a stack of old pictures. Can anyone guess what they are from. Hint, I took these pictures 38 years ago in Vancouver, BC. Cheers, Mike
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
- 20 followers
- 439 replies
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So I decided to fab up some new front rails for the Z.. What is the worst that can happen, right? (Answer: waste some time, buy a proper set from a vendor). So why not? Step 1 ? Step 2 - Pretty much committed now .... Step 3 - make a pattern and a cheap test piece from some leftover 20 ga Step 4 - game time ...18 ga Step 5 - bend them up.... This was way harder than it looks. My cheapo metal brake was at capacity, and several teeth had to be removed, inserted and realigned in order to make all the bends. But it seemed to work. z Step 6 - test fit …
Last reply by ConVerTT, -
- 4 followers
- 9 replies
- 422 views
I'm installing a new gasket and windshield into my 280z. I've read conflicting information on using sealant or installing dry. I'm leaning towards using the sealant to ensure no leaks. This is the sealant I purchased: https://www.crlaurence.com/All-Products/Automotive-Windows-%26-Supplies/Automotive-Glass-Supplies/Glazing-Adhesives/Epoxies%2C-Sealers%2C-Urethanes%2C-%26-Adhesives/CRL-Black-Windshield-and-Body-Sealant/p/CRL7708 What's the best way to install with sealant? If I install into the pinch weld groove on the gasket, I'm afraid it will be extremely messy when the rope is coming out of the groove during install. I also wonder how the lube (soap…
Last reply by inline6, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 189 views
1972 240z Alright, I’ve read all the posts regarding this copper washer that was installed as part of a TSB to reduce noise of some kind, and then was done away with in later models. Mine are in fine shape. Leave them in? Or toss them? Or indifference? I can’t seem to arrive at a consensus with what I read. The one advantage to leaving them in is that the TSB says to torque the axle nut to ~120ft/lbs, which is actually attainable with my torque wrench, as opposed to the ~200+ ft/lbs required if you leave the washer out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by kcpope, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
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Guys, need help with the wiper arms. Mine is a 77 280z and wiper arms i took off from that were #4 (#5 and #6 are zoomed). As you see they use some sort of clip that lock those pins when inserted. I cannot find replacement pin type wiper blades online. Now #1 are these i bought on ebay did not realize i need the pin type. But luckily I had picked up #2/#3 from a 240z. So these ebay ones fit nicely on them. I am sure the #4 is an OEM wiper arm as it says MADE IN JAPAN and most of my car has been stock which I have been restoring. So where to get these pin type blades? or should i shelf them and just use the ones i bought from ebay?
Last reply by zKars, -
- 7 followers
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I know JDM parts sells braided hoses, but I would like to take a shot at making my own. I am having trouble finding cloth braided heater hose. Does anyone know of a source? Also there was a thread a good while back where someone was making hoses at home. I searched but couldn't find it.
Last reply by zed2, -
- 6 followers
- 31 replies
- 983 views
Guys, can someone point me to any thread which talks about linkage repair especially how to take apart the part where the wiper arm screws in. Both of mine are stuck. There was a small lock pin round one which I was able to take off. After that nothing moves!!! do i need to hammer that thing out? These pivots are now officially welded!!! how do u even move them. You cannot even hold them and hammer. As you can see the frustration - i have beaten them well but no success.
Last reply by inline6, -
- 3 followers
- 24 replies
- 804 views
72 240. Just wondering how the light is supposed to work. My light comes on when I start the car. Goes off when I pull the seatbelt out. If I dont buckle the seatbelt the light will come on in neutral, but go out when I shift into a gear?? That seems really wacky? Thanks.
Last reply by Patcon,
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