Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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If the 280Z fuel injection system is in good shape and is working as originally intended, do people consider it a "good" system? Another way to ask that question is... If everything is working properly, is there any reason to be wanting something different or is the original Bosch system the best choice for a stock 280Z motor? I do see people pulling the FI system off and replacing with carbs, but that seems to only be in cases where the FI isn't working properly. What about when it IS working properly? Do people feel the reason to change to something else? I assume the FI system is expected to: Provide better gas mileage vs carbs. Provide better drivability over seasonal…
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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- 6 replies
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Hi All, I have been making some more progress on my 1976 280Z. I'll be posting an update soon (I have the aux air working now!)... Anyway, I recently noticed that if I put my foot on the clutch to coast down a hill, my RPM's drop pretty low (like to may 500 RPM) then recover to about 800 RPM which is where my idle is set to. All the while, there is a relay clicking away under my dash. Everything is otherwise fine - its actually running great, just the click, click, click that seems to happen when the rpm's dip low. Maybe the fuel pump relay? Is it the fuel cut-off switch in the AFM? If so, what is the correct fix? What could be causing the excessive dip in RPM's wh…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 12 replies
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i was pretty sue i was dealing w/a hot-start issue, as my current problem only commenced with hot days, hot running and the car would start beautifully when cold. i even waited for several weeks to log many starts prior to posting in the "hot-start" thread, but it seems this car is making me look a fool yet again (no difficult task, i must admit)... the past 2 days my presumed hot-starting issue has become an every-start problem, even stone cold, first thing in the morning. it goes like this: turn the key, it fires up for a millisecond, dies immediately and will not start no matter how long i crank unless i prime the fuel lines. i do this by pulling the solenoid wire fro…
Last reply by rossiz, -
- 25 replies
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So I haven't had cold start in the mornings here and I should because it is usually below 60 degrees when I go to work. I noticed its been harder to start my Z for the past 2 weeks. I measured the TT this morning and I should have got a reading somewhere around 2.96, ambient temp is 59 degrees. I got no reading, 0.00. So off to find a TT. I wonder what killed it? Its only about 4 years old.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
Hi, I've got an frustrating issue with my 78 280z. I bought it last fall from the original owner ( a very nice lady). It had been parked in her barn since the early 1990's. She said she was afraid it would leave her stranded. Any way, she had a lot of work done to it before it was parked, new AFM, fuel pump, injectors ect. I dropped the fuel tank, cleaned every connector, put new plugs, wires, tune -up parts, cleaned the 35 pin connector and reflowed the solder connections in the ECU, fuel filter and pressure gauge. I'm getting 40 PSI with the FPR disconnected and 32 or so with vacuum to it. I don't believe I have any vacuum leaks. I was pulling between 17-18 in. …
Last reply by mjr45, -
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Yeah she passed emissions testing today! Actually passed with flying colors. I will post the results at the end of this thread. I usually run the timing around 12-13 degrees BTDC. That was the only thing I adjusted today before the test. I set it back to 10 BTDC. For the past 3 months I have been adjusting on the AFM tweaking it here and there trying to find a happy medium. Guess I found it. As you can see in the numbers she is running pretty clean. All stock except for the air filter and exhaust. I just make sure all the electrical connectors are corrosion free. In the past I would give a complete tune up. But not this time. I really didn't have the time. It just goes to…
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 6 replies
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I have a 1975 280z 2+2 and am trying to get it started. I have a problem with my fuel system and need some help troubleshooting. Fuel pump, filter, and lines are all good and I have adequate fuel pressure. When I turn the key to try to start it I can hear the EFI relays click. Ive checked to fuel injectors themselves for power with a test light to the harness but I am not exactly sure I can rely on that kind of test to know they are good. However, I did the same thing to the cold start valve connector at the harness and the test light did not light up. I was able to start it by overriding the fuel system with brake clean and the brake booster vacuum hose. So I know…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 23 replies
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So... About the EGR system. What's the theory behind the Backpressure Transducer (BPT) Valve? I know what it does... It disables the EGR system if the exhaust backpressure is too low. Question is "Why?" What would be wrong with having the EGR enabled even when the exhaust backpressure is low? Seems to me that it would simply recirculate less gas under low exhaust pressure conditions. Is there really a need to disable it completely under those conditions?
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I don't think it's been discussed here, and I don't see any information on it the the FSM, so I think I will simply ask. It's probably the only thing I don't know about the car. If you needed to replace one of the green E.F.I. fuse links (mounted near the battery on the relay box) how do they come out? I don't think they have the usual female blade connector, like the other fuse links that are on the shock tower. I think they are inserted into the connector, like any of the other blade connections? that means you can't just pull the fusible link out and replace it, like other other ones. You'll have to carefully extract it from the connector. thxZ
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 4 followers
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I've found -6 size aluminium fuel rail stock on e-bay for $10 a foot, 2 feet + shipping $35, and can get the 5/16" x 1/4" male barbs for about $2.50 then the 1/2" size for the 2 ends, couldn't be more than $4 each. Can borrow taps and bits from Pop. $70 dollars or round about and Pallnet guy on Hybridz wants $155 for a great looking fuel rail I think I could make without the fancy lines machined into it. Anybody ever done it? Is it harder than I think? I know I'd have to use that clear sealer instead of teflon tape.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 10 replies
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Got my battery changed out so that I could track down my wiper, blower motor and radio gremlin when I noticed over half of my injector blocks were cracked. I have a new set on order but wanted to know if it was safe to drive the car until the new set comes in.
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 8 replies
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SO here is my problem, I had one black fouled plug in my 77' datsun 280z and it seemed as though i had a dead cylinder so i checked spark on all plugs and compression tested all cylinders and got 120 across all of them a couple were about 125. so i assumed it was my fuel injector just dumping fuel and fouling the plug sop i got 6 rebuilt injectors from BAP and installed them this morning, when i started her up she ran even worse. Now i have centralized the problem to the 3rd & 4th fuel injectors. When i take out the spark plugs on these two there is no difference and i checked the spark for both and when i take the fuel injector connector off there is also no differen…
Last reply by FastWoman,
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