Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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Since there has always seemed to be a lot of threads with people in need of help with their 280z EFI systems, I have come up with an idea that might get those people in need of help on the right track and give them a little basic knowledge about how the fi's on these cars work! This in return would give us a break on not having to explain everything and how the efi system work so often as they could refer back to the sticky post for those types of questions. Not only this, but they could refer back that post for example and they will know what the parts are called so there wouldn't be anymore of the "black part on the top left", but the actual name and part so we would kn…
Last reply by zspert, -
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Been trying to tune the car. Idles really well. Seemed gutless on the road though. Pulled injector connectors one by one and each one made it stumble, sans #6 cylinder. Switched the #5 and # 6 connectors and still with #6 injector disconnected did not make engine stumble. Interestingly, with the #6 connector on #5 injector, it idled fine until disconnected, then stumbled. I figured it was the #6 injector (a new to me rebuilt one). Bench tested fine with 9 volt battery, sprayed carb cleaner really well. So, now I think it's cleaned out, reinstall. In my mind the #6 injector connector is good because it fires the #5 injector and the #6 injector obviously sprays when vo…
Last reply by Roblaw, -
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Hello everyone. 1st post so I hope it's done right. I bought a '77 in pretty good shape. Hadn't been driven in awhile but would crank and run. Drained the tank, cleaned out cone shaped filter in fuel line from tank. Seemed to rev up better but when I took it for a drive fell flat after 3,000 rpm. Put fuel gauge in between filter and fuel rail and it shows 25psi at idle but when I give it gas it goes down to 20psi. Should I put new fuel pump on? Found Bosch at Advanced for $240.00 after 20% off $300.00. Does the fuel dampner/regulator ever get out of adjustment? Could it be that? Still holding at 22psi after not being cranked for 12 hours. Also have been cleanin…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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:)I need help regarding this problem that I have on my car. Car is currrently stock. This morning when I start the car, it started fine, until the car warms up and when I drove it, the car suddenly stalled. I was thinking that the fuel filter is clogged/ dirty. So I replaced it and still doing the same thing. So then I inserted a fuel pressure gauge. When running, the reading is around 34 psi. In the OFF position, the reading is 19 psi. I checked the TPS and it seems ok. so as the AFM it opens freely. What seems to be the problem? Does the Fuel Pressure Regulator gives this problem? Car shuts off if you push the pedal and sometimes turns off when on idle. I attached a …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Greetings, new owner of an old 78 280Z 2+2, my 1st post so be gentle..... I put a hole in the filter screen of the fuel pump when I was trying to take it out to clean. Didn't realize it used a screen. Is there a place to buy replacement/alternate filters screen? Would adding an inline fuel filter such as the Fram G3 in front of input nozzle be good enough? NOTE: I search through this forum and ran across a reference to http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html which was where I realized there was a fuel screen. The image below is from the link.
Last reply by jonathanrussell, -
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After 20+ years of sitting, got the z running last summer. After driving a few times, the car began cutting/stalling when giving it a heavy throttle press while driving. The cutting has no relation to speed or rpm, but more the load/stress the engine is under (acceleration/hills). Last fall, we found the car would drop about 10 psi of fuel pressure before cutting out. After this past winter, we have started by replacing all of the rubber fuel lines from the tank to the engine, along with replacing the fuel filter. We cut open the filter and did not find any noticeable contaminants. We had one more successful small drive where we could really get on it, only for a s…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Here's the results of the recent emissions check: HC: 88 ppm (limit 390ppm) CO: .88% (limit 2.82%) NO: 928ppm (limit 2486ppm) CO2: 14.4% I didn't need to get it checked, but I wanted to see how good the engine is doing. It is very important for everyone, no matter how old your car is, to maintain the engine to help clean up the
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Hi Z enthusiasts. I have a '78 280Z with 64k miles and is in stock condition. I have never had the problem I am having right now with it in the three or so years I've had it. It has just started to run somewhat rough, almost like it is not running on all cylinders, maybe down one. It holds an idle but is not as smooth as it used to be. When driving, it feels down on power throughout the rev range and no matter how much throttle is applied. At idle, it will gradually accelerate overall fine but still with somewhat of a stumble, and as mentioned down on power when driving. When more abrupt throttle is applied, the engine stalls for a second or so before it revs up. …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I'm trying to help a friend with what seems to be fueling problems on his '79 280ZX. He lives in a different city, which limits what I can do. Here's a recent note from him: "I connected a vacuum meter between the intake manifold and the fuel pressure regulator and hooked a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and took the Z out for a drive. For about the first five minutes the vacuum gauge read normal and the fuel pressure would vary from about 30 to 36 lbs and the car ran quite well. About a mile down the road the vacuum gauge started acting erratic and the fuel pressure also varied around 28-30lbs seeming to respond to the changes in vacuum. A few minutes later the vacuum …
Last reply by ed653, -
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Greeting, took the 280z 1977 for the smog test and everything passed except the fuel evaporative controls functional. The technician say something about pumping nitrogen into the gas tank and take measure for 2 minutes… he said there must be a leak somewhere that didn’t hold pressure. I don’t smell any gas btw. Is this problem relate to the canister or so I need to replace all fuel lines? much appreciated
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
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Some background: I had a recent "event" where the engine shot nearly to WOT at turn of the key (without using accelerator pedal). I shut down the engine, restarted and the car ran like cr*p. Low,rough idle. Missing,poor throttle response. Exhaust smoke like a crop duster. I was only a few miles from home, so I gambled and drove it home, bucking and complaining the whole way. Next day, long story short, I discovered the vane in the AFM was stuck in full open. Touched it and it closed by it's spring power. Cleaned it carefully and it seemed to operate smoothly over the range of movement but it would occasionally stick at the full open position. I put everything back toget…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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2' aluminium stock off ebay $30. 6 -1/4 NPTx5/16 barbs from Lowes @$1.60, 2 -3/8 NPTx5/16 barbs from Fastenal @$2.03, loaned from a plumber friend taps & bits @$0, 4lbs baking soda for blasting gun from Dollar Store $2.00. $100 on beer. Easy to do. I'm gonna give myself a 8 out of 10. Next one will be perfect.
Last reply by siteunseen,
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