Promoted to Knowledge Base
Articles in this forum have been promoted to our Knowledge Base for long term preservation. Comments here are still open, but, the main article will be featured in our Knowledge database.
23 topics in this forum
-
- 14 followers
- 117 replies
- 93.9k views
Tired of the old SLOW and Tired wipers on your 240Z? Ya, Me too. SO I did some research on the subject over at HybridZ and found that for a few years now, people have been trying to use the 94' Accord and 91' Civic wiper motors as a replacement to the Datsun wiper motor that ONLY like to move if the window is WET... So I read every thread and post on the subject to find out as much as possible. All I found was pictures and posts by people saying that "it works great BUT..... The wiper does'nt PARK when you turn the switch to OFF. You have to shut the wiper switch off at the EXACT moment to get the blades to sit in the usual DOWN position. So I went to the junk yar…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
-
- 8 followers
- 55 replies
- 41.2k views
As part of the slow refresh of my red '71 240Z I knew I needed to replace all the fuel hoses, especially the big ones that go to the expansion tank in the right rear quarter panel. I'd read all the instructions for saving money by using generic fuel-rated hose and inserting sleeves in them to keep them from kinking and such. But since I am more than a little reluctant to pollute my red car's originality, and also because I really didn't feel like messing with bending and inserting sleeves, I decided to bite the bullet and buy factory hoses. As a side benefit, I figured I could advise others on whether this was as good an idea as it seemed to me at the time. So now that it…
Last reply by lenponz, -
- 1 follower
- 54 replies
- 21k views
One of the ugliest jobs I've done while stripping down an old 240Z has been removing the tar-like insulation that covers much of the interior floorboards and transmission tunnel. I have done it by using aircraft paint stripper, but this was a big mess. It softened up the tar, but made it flow into low spots. Once I had most of it removed with a paint scraper, I had to use a wire wheel and more paint stripper to get the last of it off. Some have suggested using heat, but I'd think this would also be a mess. There must be a better way. Actually, I found that with no chemicals at all, some of the insulation will come off quite easily. Just get the corner of a paint scraper …
Last reply by Dogariffic, -
- 2 followers
- 31 replies
- 19.2k views
This comes up often enough that it should be posted as a tech article. This is taken from a different posting where Heater Control Panel Illumination was the topic. In case that is what you were looking for: (Original Thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=141090#post141090) The Clock not working in the Z's is such an endemic characteristic that it almost seems a basic requirement of the car. If your clock works....it's not a Z. Fortunately, with a little careful effort it can be avoided. Here's how: ......snipped from original thread.... As far as your clock, you can fix it, and if you're careful it will last a long while. I fixed a pair of thes…
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 28 replies
- 10.6k views
At the front of the radiator you'll find two pairs of wires both Red and Black. Typically they're taped to the harness with Blue electric tape. Those are the connections for the Fog Lamps in parallel (that means they are both powered off the same circuit, but not dependent on one another to work). Inside the vehicle, typically behind the Fuse Box or Hazard Switch, (depending on whether the bundle has been moved or not) you'll find two sets of 2-wire connectors. In my car they were connected to each other even though neither circuit was operational. The first circuit is for the Fuel Pump (Electric) and it's pair of wires are Green and Black/White. You can see the i…
Last reply by rtaylor, -
Oil the Clock? 1 2 3
by zclocks- 4 followers
- 24 replies
- 8.8k views
I'm fairly new to this web site and have seen several articles on clocks. This is of particular interest to me as I do have some experience with total clock reconditioning. I've been repairing, refurbishing and specializing in 70-83 Datsun /Nissan clocks for the last 8 years and thought I would pass on several bits of trivia and technical information. I never really thought about NOT using oil on a clock as that seems to be common knowledge until a friend came to me years ago with a 240Z clock. Bill knew I worked on all sorts of electronic hardware and was soliciting my input. His problem was that his clock had stopped (like it was the only 240 clock that didn't work). I…
Last reply by 240260280, -
- 2 followers
- 23 replies
- 14.7k views
For those of us with original fuel pumps on our 240 and 260Zs, those pumps are now at least 35 years old. Obviously, if they haven't yet been replaced, the time of need can't be far away. In most cases, the obvious answer is to simply replace the pump, either with a new mechanical pump or convert to a modern electric pump. But the original pumps were designed to be rebuildable. For those of us with restored or original survivor cars, rebuilding the original pump is one way to retain some of the car's originality. It's also surprisingly affordable. Of course, it's not as easy as it used to be. Many of the parts shown below are no longer available from Nissan. But the cri…
Last reply by Mike, -
- 5 followers
- 18 replies
- 7.9k views
I have methodically been "refreshing" my '73 240Z a bit at a time. I've repainted the car, rebuilt the front & rear suspension, installed new carpets, a headliner and a dash cap, refinished the engine bay and just recently had the engine rebuilt. :knockedou One of the last detail items I had left to tackle was the horns. They were pretty cruddy looking after 30 plus years of service. :sick: First of all, here is a list of items that I used to refinish the horns: Phillips screw driver 5/16" nut driver 1 Scotchbrite pad #0000 Steel wool 3M rubbing compound PPG wax & grease remover Satin black enamel paint Wire brush Barkeepers friend an old tooth …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 13 replies
- 16k views
Here's a primer on how to adjust the doors on your Z so that they fit properly and seal well. ADJUSTING THE Z DOORS: Unless the car has been in an accident and the door opening or door itself have been tweaked out of shape, most problems with the doors are due to misaligned latches, hinges, or worn components. Presuming that it is adjustment or bad parts and not bent items check the following. First perform a visual check of the door. Check to make sure that the door is aligned properly within the door opening. Check the spacing along the top part of the window frame, the spacing between the window frame and the quarter window, also the spacing between the door skin and t…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 6.2k views
Thanks to all the posters on this forum! After reading through quite a few post on the interior fume issue, I decided to attack the problem on my car. I have a series 1 car in fairly good shape that I use as a fair weather daily driver. I love the car, but was getting sick of smelling like a tailpipe! Even just cracking the drivers window 1/2" would fill the car with nasty untreated exhaust fumes.. I used to think it was bad aerodynamics of the car. My therory was the rear turbulance from the car would draw he fumes forward along the car and enter the side windows. I was getting ready to buy a BRE rear spoiler and try to modify the aerodynamic wake of the car to r…
Last reply by beandip, -
- 11 replies
- 10.8k views
Installing a GM HEI Ignition Module into a 1976 280Z (which already had a ZX ignition) This article describes how to upgrade a ZX ignition module to a GM HEI module. In this particular case, the ZX ignition module happened to be installed in a 1976 280Z which had been upgraded to a ZX distributor/ignition module using the Atlantic Z Club instructions. The purpose of the HEI install was to fix a sudden engine cut-out problem and a jumpy tach problem. Heat Sink The first thing I needed was a nice heat sink and, afters scouring the basement and considering attacking an old Western Electric telegraph test set with a hack saw, I laid eyes on a stack of these: Which …
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 10 replies
- 15.2k views
This is a real basic primer on how to bump out dents and shrink metal. Ok, if you're handy enough with an oxy-acetylene torch, then you'll be ok with this next procedure. If you're concerned with the "panel beaters", and I take that to mean the specialty hammers, dollys and other body specific tools, you can still do quite a bit with your regular tools. You can use your regular ball peen hammer or regular claw hammer as long as you're careful of the claw. See if you can address the metal from behind. Typically this will involve removing the lights, wiring and other trim pieces that will be in the way. Once done with that, take a good look at the metal. Remember, metal…
Last reply by ensys,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.